Bar Build Completed

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kvgros

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About a year ago the wife and I decided to dive into some home renovations we've been planning and putting a bar in the basement was on the list. As a home brewer and a frequent troll on these forums I started flagging ideas for setting up a behind wall keezer and having 4 taps in the bar. I was, prior to the bar, bottling everything and knew very little about kegs, beer line temperature/length/pressure, and everything else that would ultimately go into it. I did know this place was a great resource and I absorbed all I could from dozens of posts.

That said, the idea grew, construction started, and we are very happy with result (both with the bar itself and with the keg/tap setup). Last night we had a kickoff party with about 70 people over (it got a little out of hand :) I had 5 kegs ready (4 tapped). I had a NB Kolsch and a MoreBeer Pliny clone (which everyone LOVED and is causing a TON of headaches today thanks to the fact that it's 8%. I even warned everyone who kept coming back for more). I also had a NB IPA ready in the wings. My other two tapped beers were commercial kegs (Schlafly Pale Ale and a Blue Moon).

After learning so much on here I've been gathering some pics to share and some info on what I did that worked.

We built a pretty standard keezer with a 6" collar. As it was behind the wall we didn't spend too much time on making it pretty and went for solid construction and a very insulated interior. We used a Northern Brewer Governor for the primary regulator on a 20# tank. I got a 4 way secondary CO2 regulator from KegWorks (along with a bunch of other smaller pieces like shanks, tubing, ball lock connectors, etc). To make managing cables easier I also invested in a number of quick disconnects from MoreBeer and these have been a great addition and have made my life easy in terms of switching things around and cleaning lines.

I control the temp of the keezer with a Johnson A419 and, per one of the designs I saw from a fellow member here, we built an insulated box in the wall behind the taps. This box connects to the keezer via 4" PVC pipe and we ran two pipes to circulate air and keep the lines cold. All beer lines run up to the tap box through one PVC route and the second PVC route houses a boat bilge pump (another idea off here) that blows air down into keezer (and thus pulls air through the first pipe into the insulated box and regulates the temperature. For the bilge pump we used an Attwood Quiet Blower and, per another poster here, was pointed to this power supply.

As I'm mixing ball lock Corny kegs for my home brews and commercial kegs I needed to be able to easily support Sanke taps. To do this I got a couple Sanke taps and Ball Lock Conversion kits from corneykeg.com. These have made this process extremely easy.

We went with brass taps and a drip tray due to the aesthetic of the rest of the bar. Should brass not last very long everything is very easy to swap out. With the drip tray we got a custom piece of wood and this brass drip tray from KegWorks.com. We routed the wood out to set the tray flush and to hold the drain pipe which we routed through the wall and into a drain pump shared by an ice maker.

I did spend a lot of time using the various input and calculators I could find to put in the optimum length of beer lines given the line sizes, height of tap to keg, etc. I think I have it pretty close.

Beyond the taps we put in a 50 bottle wine cooler, dishwasher, 25lb ice maker, beverage cooler, etc. At this point I have no reason to leave my basement :)

Anyway, thought I'd share the pictures of my setup and some of the ideas we found on here and put to use. As everyone was kind enough to share their own builds to give me ideas I wanted to do the same. I'd be happy to answer any questions you might have if it helps someone else save some time in doing something similar.

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I got nothin' except that set up is BALLA! BRAVO! Thanks for the description as well so the rest of get our own Old Keezer.
 
Looks awesome! I'm working on something similar as far as tap box in wall, thanks for sharing!
 
The back walls are rough cut oak we stained up and built out. My dad used to own a saw mill down near Bull Shoals lake in southern MO (Theodosia) and he had a bunch handy. He also knew a guy that sold us the rest for $1/board foot (which is ridiculously cheap) All the wood on the back walls didn't cost $200 total.

Bar top is poured concrete (just shy of 2,000 lbs worth over about 65 sq/ft). My dad and I (and a few friends) did all the labor for the whole bar and built everything except the bar top which we outsourced to a local company in St. Louis. They came out and built a mold and got color ideas and poured, stained, etc at their location and then had the very difficult job of bringing it back and installing. The bar top was 50% of the overall cost of the bar :)

The "front" of the bar (in front of the stools) is faux stone we got at Home Depot. It's molded cement that comes in 4" high puzzle pieces you piece together and mortar to the wall. It's indoor/outdoor and worked pretty well for what we needed.
 
kvgros - very nice! I am just starting to put together something very similar have a couple questions if you don't mind.

What is the wrap that you have lining the interior of your collar? Some kind of moisture barrier? It looks like you probably have some rigid foam board between the wrap and the wood collar, correct?

Did you consider wrapping the PVC with insulation?
 
Yes, we have rigid foam we custom cut to line the interior of the collar and then wrapped/sealed it with layer of a product from HomeDepot called "Protecto Wrap" (see pic). This stuff is sold in a decent sized role and we custom cut and layered it throughout the collar and over all edges between the collar and the freezer. It also wraps over the top of the collar and the lid actually lands on it.

Inside the tap box we have wrapped this stuff heavily as well (also on the outside of rigid foam).

We chose not to insulate the PVC initially but that is something I'm considering doing. My taps stay surprisingly chilled which is nice as it proves everything is working. But when I step back and look at where there is a potential for heat loss it's the PVC pipes so maybe I will insulate them soon.

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Thanks - appreciate you getting back to me so quickly. I'm going to try to get mine done in the next week or two!
 
You did such a nice job. For me, one thing that sticks out is the countertop. What is it? It's beautiful with the raw edge or whatever it is called.
 

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