Auber 2352 Temp off by 10+ degrees

[johnny1211]

I recently completed my electric build based off of the instructions here http://www.instructables.com/id/Electric-brewing-system/ I used an Auber 2352 for my PID and their liquid tight RTD PT100 PT100-L100NPT 4 inch temp probe to be used through a bargainfittings.com weldless thermometer sight gauge. I have calibrated this according to two thermometers (one analog, one digital) in a glass of ice water (both thermometers read 32 degrees F prior to adjusting my PID, and they both read 210-211 degrees at boil and this is correct due to my elevation). My offset was -2 degrees F. The other adjustments that I made were as follows:
-HY from 0.3 --> 0.1.
-Sn from 0 --> 21.

My system is reading on at 32 degrees, but it is about 10+ degrees low at 150, meaning both of my thermometers are reading about 160-162 when my PID is reading 150. Likewise, at boil, both thermometers are reading 210-211 and my PID is reading 201-202.

I did not initially complete an autotune. I completed an autotune and the same thing is still happening. I've triple checked my connections and they are tight. Also, as specified, I have my 2 reds connected to 3 and 4 and my white is connected to 5. Would someone please be able to help with this? Thanks for your input.

 

[augiedoggy]

Have you tried contacting auberins for support? Everyone keeps saying how paying extra from them is so worth it because of the great support they have so I would give them a call if you dont get any help here... I dont have any experience with the auber pids so I cant be much more help...

 

[iijakii]

I'm a bit thrown off because you say it's reading accurate at icewater. But, with it being a static 10 off at the higher temps I think you just need to change the offset. Change your offset to 10 degrees (or I guess 12 if you already have it at 2) and run it at tap-water up to boil and see if your temps are accurate.

 

[TungstenBeer]

I'm a bit thrown off because you say it's reading accurate at icewater. But, with it being a static 10 off at the higher temps I think you just need to change the offset. Change your offset to 10 degrees (or I guess 12 if you already have it at 2) and run it at tap-water up to boil and see if your temps are accurate.

Yup, I agree with this. Calibration at 32F doesn't matter - what matters is that it's calibrated properly at 150F ish. That should fix your issue at boiling as well, although that is less important assuming you're going to run in manual mode.

 

[johnny1211]

I was a little confused by that as well. One thing I should have included but did not is that I did try to calibrate at boiling. I adjusted the temperature accordingly, however, it was off when by about 6 degrees too hot when the temperature returned to room temp. One thing I did not think of was calibrating to 150. As of now, this is just going to be a brew kettle, but I have plans of using this controller to run a HERMs in the future. Thanks for your reply.

 

[augiedoggy]

I was a little confused by that as well. One thing I should have included but did not is that I did try to calibrate at boiling. I adjusted the temperature accordingly, however, it was off when by about 6 degrees too hot when the temperature returned to room temp. One thing I did not think of was calibrating to 150. As of now, this is just going to be a brew kettle, but I have plans of using this controller to run a HERMs in the future. Thanks for your reply.

Do you know the exact temp that boiling occurs at where you are located? (this is effected by high vs sealevel) Where are you located?

 

[LandoLincoln]

One thing that was constantly screwing up my PIDs were the spade connectors that were connecting the thermo probe wires to the PID. I can't really explain why they were messing the readings up, but once I clipped them off and just ran the copper wires directly to the PID connecting screws, my thermometer readings stopped behaving strangely. Just something to try before you start replacing PIDs.