ANVIL FOUNDRY ALL-GRAIN BREWING SYSTEM

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Brewed my first today using a Wilser bag and went well, except for that damned basket support ring for the basket! I can’t be the only one wanting to fling that thing across the street. Kept popping out of place with the slightest bump.

Forgive me if this has been brought up, This is a long thread to read through. But overall extremely happy and afraid I may not ever use my propane setup.
 
If you gently spread the ring open so that it pushes hard into the anvil. This will provide enough pressure to keep the ring in place. When not in the anvil, the ring should have a gap of around 2 to 2-1/2 inches wide.
 
Mine delivered about a week ago. I have yet to unbox as I am wanting to get a 240v plug installed in my garage.
 
Knightshade said:
so is this thread not seeing any activity because the foundry is currently out of stock, no brewing going on, or has everybody just been able to figure everything they need out based on the info in the thread itself?
Click to expand...
I’m still dialing this system in based on my processes to be more consistent and predictable. I’m a brand new brewer and now have 15 batches under my belt. mash/lauter efficiencies range from 75-78.5% depending on the grain bill and over the last 4 batches I’ve hit or slightly exceeded my OG by a point. I’m a big fan of ipas and NEIPAs so my grain boils have included 15-30% oats and wheat that make it pretty sticky too so I’m happy with it. Most importantly my wife likes the beer too!
 
I'm fairly certain I'll be joining the ranks soon. I finally put my name on the waiting list for a 10.5, although my target is smaller batches so I'll be picking up that small batch ring as well.

Picked up a 10G mash tun w/false bottom and immersion chiller over the weekend for $50. Figured it was such a good deal, I couldn't pass it up. Guy threw in a PET carboy, some extra books and stuff that he had as well. Ordered a 7.5G Anvil kettle last night that I know I'll use for cider if nothing else while I'm waiting for the chance to finally put my Foundry (unless I get swayed by other research) order in. If..?? I decide to sparge, I guess I'll be setup for that too.
 
Thought I'd share some information I've gathered while waiting for my system.

I'm going 240v and found this plug adapter on Amazon and this 240V GFCI with 100 ft. 10/3 cable for a great price (but lead time is several weeks):

240v plug end.JPG
240v extension.JPG


I currently have a kettle/tun system and always sparged but planning to try no-sparge with the Anvil since many report high eff. without it. To accomplish seems many either:

1) Use smaller gap on the mill.
2) Double crush.
3) Pre-condition grain before crushing.

Another thing I found common to those with high efficiency was the use of a bag in the malt pipe. 400 micron is the suggested bag and I have found two popular suppliers - Wilser and "The Brew Bag". Both seem to have good reviews but are somewhat pricey addition at around $50.

Was wondering for those that use bags. Do you think the entire bag is utilized or would you get similar results with 400 micron built into the mash pipe? If the latter would something like this work if modified to fit ($15)?:

bucket filter.JPG



So finer crush allows higher efficiency and the 400 micron bag enables use of this finer crush (some also add 1/2# rice hulls per 10# grain).

My list for first brew (please let me know if I'm missing anything):
  • Finer grain crush.
  • No sparge.
  • Use grain bag.
  • Let mash rest for 10-12 minutes before starting recirculation.
  • Recirculation flow rate - I have seen many opinions here. Probably on the spot trial/error.
  • Mash out to 168F.
 
I’ve made 5 batches now with my 6.5. All 3 gallon batches. Comments:

- the support ring is a pita. It is very, very easy to dislodge and it happens all the time.
- the silicone gasket they put in the lid is another pita. It falls out constantly.
- my controller seems to have a mind of its own and rarely holds temp “within a degree” as they state. I set it for 152 and it goes to 160. I have to keep messing with it, lowering the temp to get it to stop.
- It performs like a biab system. I get lots of junk carried into my wort, despite running the pump back through the grain bed for the entire mash. I have taken to scooping out the trash manually with a fine strainer before I start the boil and this takes me a half hour.
- The 6.5 has about 1/2 gallon dead space and losses due to hops, waste and trub. Thats significant for a 3 gallon batch and I find I have to calculate my recipes as 4 gallon recipes to get 3 gallons out at the right gravity.
- Their wort chiller sucks. Its designed to hang on the lip of the kettle and only about 1/3 of it reaches the wort at 3 gallons. Takes FOREVER to cool. I use my other wort chiller instead.
- My finished beers have been decent, but not better or easier than anything I was making prior to buying this, despite the supposed exact temperature control.

- On the positive side, that little pump is the best thing ever. Super reliable, super quiet. You can’t even tell its running. That little clamp they give you to restrict the flow is cheap though and I have found it doesn’t work well.

I have ordered a hop spider basket to use with this is the future. I hope that will eliminate some of the waste. I am also going to try a grain bag inside the basket. Based on my experiences though, I am very afraid this will lead to stuck mash. I don’t know what I can do to make the controller stay at the temp its set at.
 
Last edited:
bwible said:
I’ve made 5 batches now with my 6.5. All 3 gallon batches. Comments:

- the support ring is a pita. It is very, very easy to dislodge and it happens all the time.
- the silicone gasket they put in the lid is another pita. It falls out constantly.
- my controller seems to have a mind of its own and rarely holds temp “within a degree” as they state. I set it for 152 and it goes to 160. I have to keep messing with it, lowering the temp to get it to stop.
- It performs like a biab system. I get lots of junk carried into my wort, despite running the pump back through the grain bed for the entire mash. I have taken to scooping out the trash manually with a fine strainer before I start the boil and this takes me a half hour.
- The 6.5 has about 1/2 gallon dead space and losses due to hops, waste and trub. Thats significant for a 3 gallon batch and I find I have to calculate my recipes as 4 gallon recipes to get 3 gallons out at the right gravity.
- Their wort chiller sucks. Its designed to hang on the lip of the kettle and only about 1/3 of it reaches the wort at 3 gallons. Takes FOREVER to cool. I use my other wort chiller instead.
- My finished beers have been decent, but not better or easier than anything I was making prior to buying this, despite the supposed exact temperature control.

- On the positive side, that little pump is the best thing ever. Super reliable, super quiet. You can’t even tell its running. That little clamp they give you to restrict the flow is cheap though and I have found it doesn’t work well.

I have ordered a hop spider basket to use with this is the future. I hope that will eliminate some of the waste. I am also going to try a grain bag inside the basket. Based on my experiences though, I am very afraid this will lead to stuck mash. I don’t know what I can do to make the controller stay at the temp its set at.
Click to expand...

I have used my 6.5 Anvil for 26 batches now (it is the first generation purchased back last July).

I have only had issues with the support ring when I have not paid attention to the feet on the malt basket. One of the firs things I did with the ring was to gently stretch it so that the gap in the ring is about 1.5 to 2 inches wide. It now takes a bit of effort to push the ring in place, but it has not come out without my being stupid about it.

The silicone gasket is definitely a PITA. The silicone ring will actually hold into the rim of the top if you carefully press it in along the edge, for a while at least. Enough heating and cooling cycles and it pops out again. When it does, I just hang it up from the handle and wait until everything is cleaned up and cool before pressing it back in place. It is then good for another couple of brews before falling out again.

I have had no issues with the controller. I have found that I can ramp the temperature up to get to strike temp faster and then drop the power to around 55% to 60% at 240V and it holds temperature really well. I go about 10% higher at 120V.

It is really a BIAB system as are most of the all-in-ones. In fact, I have stopped sparging on most recipes and just go full volume mash. It saves time, is more predictable and reproducible this way. Now I sparge only for high gravity beers. I went to using my BIAB bag to line the mash pipe after a few brews mostly for the ability to crush a bit finer to get better efficiency and for a faster clean-up of the malt basket. THAT was a PITA, getting those grain particles out of the crevices where the bottom piece fit the walls of the mash basket. The bag allowed me to push the grind quality a bit finer without worrying about overloading the wort with grain debris.

I measured the dead space several times before I ran the system for the first time. Setting the unit flat, I ended up with 1.6 liters (1.7 qts) of wort left in the unit with the drainage arm aimed straight to the bottom of the kettle. Now, I place a block of wood under the unit to tip it forward when I am draining the wort and I end up with around 700 ml (0.75 qts) left in the kettle.

I have a SS chiller which is about two and a half times the length of the one supplied with the Anvil. The difference in chilling between the two of them is around 5 minutes to go from near boiling down to around 60F, less than 15 minutes with my chiller vs just under 20 minutes with the Anvil chiller. I guess a lot is based upon your tap water temperature and I have a deep well with the temperature barely creeping into the mid-50's in the heat of summer.

From my stove top BIAB process, I am finding the process is about the same with my total time from dough in to clean up relatively the same as before. It really comes down to being able to have the same system in the winter when I brew indoors to outdoors in the spring and early fall. It was a PITA to drag out the propane and burner, set everything up and then have to play around with the flame and boil off rate to get the outdoor brews to mimic the indoor brews. The Anvil is pretty consistent for me both indoors and out.

My process did change for hop additions. I used to just throw the hops into the kettle with BIAB. With the Anvil, I could get away with that for lightly hopped recipes but not with anything requiring a good amount of hops. I went to a hop sack and then purchased a hop basket. That caused me to make a slight adjustment up in my hops to replicate the bitterness I was getting with 'free range hopping'.

Maybe it is because I have a strong process background, but it took only a little work and thinking (that part hurt) to figure out how to get the system to reproduce close to what I was getting previously at about the same efficiencies.
 
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Bassman2003 said:
I wish that adapter came in a more normal plug arrangement. My 220v plugs have one vertical and one horizontal, not two horizontal.
Click to expand...

From my Handyman In-Your-Pocket two horizontal is 15A/#6-15 and one is 20A/#6-20 (220V). Pretty sure Anvil is 15A.
 
My 220v wall outlet is the 20A variety. I am guessing that the 110v plug/wire is not the best to pair with a 20A plug? The unit will only pull what it needs, but I can not seem to find a 110v plug to 220v #6 plug adapter.
 
Bassman2003 said:
My 220v wall outlet is the 20A variety. I am guessing that the 110v plug/wire is not the best to pair with a 20A plug? The unit will only pull what it needs, but I can not seem to find a 110v plug to 220v #6 plug adapter.
Click to expand...

Like many I know enough about electricity to be dangerous. Here is a 240V #6/20R:

6 dash 20r.JPG


See how this 240V receptacle will take either a #6/15p or #6/20P (P=plug). Since it will take a 20A plug it should be protected with a 20A breaker. I have a few 240V power tools in my garage/shop and they usually don't have internal power protection so the user needs to protect them with a proper circuit breaker. I don't have my Anvil yet but hopefully it has an internal fuse or breaker to protect it - this would allow you to run it on a 20A or 15A 240V circuit (and allow you to use the adapter I show).

Mike
 
Thanks Mike! I am an idiot. I did not notice that the receptacle is dual use. Duh. I have two with each on a 20 amp breaker. I will contact Anvil to see if there is an issue with running the unit on a 20 amp breaker.
 
szap said:
I changed mine to the 240 plug but was able to find an adapter like this. I don't know if they are available for every 240 plug configuration. I tried it out with the adapter at 120 and it worked fine. The only thing I was cautioned on is if I use 120, make sure when I go back to 240 be sure to switch the Foundry back to 240. 120 on the Foundry to a 240 outlet equals fried foundry. I have a 240 in my brew shed, so will rarely use the adapter but wanted the option to take the Foundry where 240 is not available. I am no electrician, so if anyone sees a problem with this, let me knowView attachment 677239
Click to expand...

@szap

I have found a need for an adapter like this - have looked high/low and can't find one. Can you share info on where you found this?

Thanks
 
bwible said:
I’ve made 5 batches now with my 6.5. All 3 gallon batches. Comments:

- the support ring is a pita. It is very, very easy to dislodge and it happens all the time.
- the silicone gasket they put in the lid is another pita. It falls out constantly.
- my controller seems to have a mind of its own and rarely holds temp “within a degree” as they state. I set it for 152 and it goes to 160. I have to keep messing with it, lowering the temp to get it to stop.
- It performs like a biab system. I get lots of junk carried into my wort, despite running the pump back through the grain bed for the entire mash. I have taken to scooping out the trash manually with a fine strainer before I start the boil and this takes me a half hour.
- The 6.5 has about 1/2 gallon dead space and losses due to hops, waste and trub. Thats significant for a 3 gallon batch and I find I have to calculate my recipes as 4 gallon recipes to get 3 gallons out at the right gravity.
- Their wort chiller sucks. Its designed to hang on the lip of the kettle and only about 1/3 of it reaches the wort at 3 gallons. Takes FOREVER to cool. I use my other wort chiller instead.
- My finished beers have been decent, but not better or easier than anything I was making prior to buying this, despite the supposed exact temperature control.

- On the positive side, that little pump is the best thing ever. Super reliable, super quiet. You can’t even tell its running. That little clamp they give you to restrict the flow is cheap though and I have found it doesn’t work well.

I have ordered a hop spider basket to use with this is the future. I hope that will eliminate some of the waste. I am also going to try a grain bag inside the basket. Based on my experiences though, I am very afraid this will lead to stuck mash. I don’t know what I can do to make the controller stay at the temp its set at.
Click to expand...


I had similar concerns/issues. I'm only three batches in on my 6.5, but here are some tips that I've received (some from Anvil CS), and some based on my own observations:

- open the gap on the ring like @Oginme suggested. I've had no issues since.
- a little dip of silicone adhesive and the ring won't be an issue. Of course, I've discovered that the silicon gasket isn't even all that necessary.
- If you're controller is overshooting by that much, change the power level. The first couple times that happened to me while mashing, I noticed I still had the power at 100%. I drop it to about 80 - 85% and never have an overshoot.
- It's a BIAB system. Lots of trub is going to happen. I have the dip tube rotated to a 90 degree angle, and that leaves a touch under 1/2 gallon of loss. I have stopped worrying about trub altogether, as long as my fermenter is big enough, I've noticed no ill consequences of a lot of trub in the fermenter. There were lots of experiments documented on brulosophy that I found not only interesting, but true as well.
- I stir while chilling and I've noticed even with their little chiller, I get down to temp in less than 15 minutes. A bigger chiller would still be ideal.
- Many users advocate using a bag with the malt pipe. Depending on how fine you grind/crush, it's almost a necessity. I line mine with some sheer curtains from WalMart made of voile fabric. Works fantastic, and my efficiency went up almost 10% as a result once I started using it. Never had a stuck mash as long as you aren't recircing too fast, and rake the bed every 15 or 20 minutes.


Hope this helps.
 
Got an email from Anvil today that the pumps are on back order until Mid-June, but Foundry orders will start shipping (without the pump) on May 18.
 
jimdkc said:
Got an email from Anvil today that the pumps are on back order until Mid-June, but Foundry orders will start shipping (without the pump) on May 18.
Click to expand...

Does that mean that will ship the pumps at a later date? Or only ship orders without pumps?
Just curious as I’m waiting on one with pump.
Thanks and cheers
 
Wondering about brew bags for the Anvil (I'm still patiently waiting- sort of). I see the most recommended are Wilser and The Brew Bag. I have read too small of micron bag can cause stuck mash during recirculation. The Brew Bag has 200 micron for BIAB and a 400 micron for recirculation. Wilser said they believe their bags are 300 micron.

Is the better choice for the Anvil the 400 micron Brew Bag?
 
I have tried the malt basket alone, malt basket with a Wilser bag and just the Wilser bag alone with a Brewzilla false bottom. I am sticking with the false bottom and the Wilser bag. Great recirc flow, minimal sediment after the mash and easier cleanup. I am thinking Anvil should have gone with this approach from the beginning and ditched the malt basket (which looks like the legs will break over time anyway).

Mike made me a custom bag to work with the false bottom and it is really working out well.
 
Bassman2003 said:
I have tried the malt basket alone, malt basket with a Wilser bag and just the Wilser bag alone with a Brewzilla false bottom. I am sticking with the false bottom and the Wilser bag. Great recirc flow, minimal sediment after the mash and easier cleanup. I am thinking Anvil should have gone with this approach from the beginning and ditched the malt basket (which looks like the legs will break over time anyway).

Mike made me a custom bag to work with the false bottom and it is really working out well.
Click to expand...

Thanks - Was thinking of why not just remove the malt pipe and just use the bag (with something to keep bag off bottom) as you do but thought some say the recirculation will not flow through the entire grain bed. Have you had decent efficiencies?

Thanks
Mike
 
I am 7 batches in with the 10.5 Foundry. I love it. Yes the ring is a pain and I stopped even bothering with the rubber gasket. Last few batches I have found that if I hold the ring with one hand and lift the malt pipe. half way out with the other, then the ring does not pop out when pulling the malt pipe the rest of the way. I use the 400 micron bag from The Brew Bag.

As someone who has been a BIAB brewer for 7-8 years now, sediment levels seem to be about the same as with a kettle, but my kettle ball valve was not sitting on bottom like the Foundry does. Seems that the valve on the unit should be maybe an inch higher up. Even with whirlpooling and then letting it settle and then turning the valve upward, you still get a lot of trub. Couple ideas I was thinking about to solve this was to either brew 6 gallon batches instead of 5.5 and then leave the valve facing down and then pumping off the first half gallon of sludge and then turning the valve up and draining the rest into my carboy, My other though was to just rack the beer off from the top down.

Does anyone have an issue with the ball valve coming loose from turning it do drain off? I make sure it's tight, but then the motion of turning it upward and then back down, seems to loosen the washer inside and it will start to leak out of the bottom.
 
I do a lot more transferring and procedures than a normal foundry user, so my efficiency numbers are kind of out of whack. I can say this bag + false bottom is the same or a little better than with the basket. The recirc is better and wort coming out of the mash is clearer as well.
 
jdauria said:
I am 7 batches in with the 10.5 Foundry. I love it. Yes the ring is a pain and I stopped even bothering with the rubber gasket. Last few batches I have found that if I hold the ring with one hand and lift the malt pipe. half way out with the other, then the ring does not pop out when pulling the malt pipe the rest of the way. I use the 400 micron bag from The Brew Bag.

As someone who has been a BIAB brewer for 7-8 years now, sediment levels seem to be about the same as with a kettle, but my kettle ball valve was not sitting on bottom like the Foundry does. Seems that the valve on the unit should be maybe an inch higher up. Even with whirlpooling and then letting it settle and then turning the valve upward, you still get a lot of trub. Couple ideas I was thinking about to solve this was to either brew 6 gallon batches instead of 5.5 and then leave the valve facing down and then pumping off the first half gallon of sludge and then turning the valve up and draining the rest into my carboy, My other though was to just rack the beer off from the top down.

Does anyone have an issue with the ball valve coming loose from turning it do drain off? I make sure it's tight, but then the motion of turning it upward and then back down, seems to loosen the washer inside and it will start to leak out of the bottom.
Click to expand...

My experience has been from tun/kettle. About 3-years ago my son gifted me a FastFerment conical. I don't brew enough to do any real A -vs- B process variations, but, last few brews I have used a method I read someone else use. Don't worry about the trub getting into the fermenter. Let the fermenter sit for a few hours, dump the collection jar, oxygenate the wort, and pitch the yeast.
 
Hello Fellow homebrewers, I've been a homebrewer since 1993 now with over 200 official batches under my belt so I have experience with this hobby. I've been an all grain brewer since batch number 18. I currently have a 3 kettle system that is both Electric and natural gas. I pulled the plug recently and purchased the Anvil 10.5 gal system with the pump and am preparing for my first brew. In posting here I'm looking for help from you already experienced Anvil Brewers. I have read a number of the threads here but would like some help. I crush my grains but not sure what my pre-set mill is at. It seems like most of what I'm reading says to use a BIAB bag in addition to the malt basket is order to minimize grain particulate matter going into the boil? Right now my system has a perforated copper false bottom and I recirculate continuously during the mashing process which really creates a great filter bed after mashing 1 or more hours. Sounds like this system doesn't create a great filter bed.....or that it's greatly affected by the grain crush???
Also, I'm old school and use mostly whole hops. Do any of you Anvil users have much experience using whole hops with this system? I was hoping I could clean out the Malt basket after mashing and drop it back in during the boil and just drop my whole hops in this. The folks at Anvil suggested using a BIAB in order to prevent possible scorching. Also, as I'm writing this I'm thinking that both the Malt basket and immersion chiller won't fit in the vessel at the same time?
Last but not least I normally use my pump after boiling is complete and run 212F wort through this for about 5 minutes to sanitize this before cooling and to help chilling instead of using a sanitized spoon and stirring. Based on something I read I'm guessing that their pumps are not rated for boiling. Can somebody confirm what temperature their pumps are rated for?
Thanks!
Paul
 
Hello Paul,

I think all of the methods for mashing work well. The basket without a grain bag worked fine for me. I chose to go without the basket and get a false bottom because I am trying to brew low oxygen. The crush is quite important for efficiency, especially if you will be brewing no-sparge. The drawback of the mash basket is that it is kind of narrow, so flow is not as easy compared to a larger diameter pot. I use rice hulls with every batch to ensure very good flow. I have not tried a batch without, so maybe they are not needed, but if you crush on the fine side, they probably help a lot. I have been crushing around 29-30mm for a gap. Not super flour, but some.

I think the chiller will fit inside the mash basket. and no, the pump is not made for boiling liquid. I think John B. said the internal parts would be damaged. I am not sure of the max temp though. At least 170F.
 
Bassman2003 said:
I have tried the malt basket alone, malt basket with a Wilser bag and just the Wilser bag alone with a Brewzilla false bottom. I am sticking with the false bottom and the Wilser bag. Great recirc flow, minimal sediment after the mash and easier cleanup. I am thinking Anvil should have gone with this approach from the beginning and ditched the malt basket (which looks like the legs will break over time anyway).

Mike made me a custom bag to work with the false bottom and it is really working out well.
Click to expand...
I have 16 brews under my belt on the 10.5g foundry and have used the wilser bag inside the maltpipe for 14 of them and prefer the bag for sure to keep debris out of boil when crushing finer. I’ve been wanting to try the bag alone but couldnt find a false bottom that fits without spending and arm and leg for a custom false bottom. Which size FB do you have from the brewzilla? Can you purchase this separately? I’m intrigued by this if it help my mash efficiency but honestly my mash efficiency is now consistently in the 76-78% range depending on grain Bill. So while I’m very happy with this, always open to inproving
 
Paul M said:
Last but not least I normally use my pump after boiling is complete and run 212F wort through this for about 5 minutes to sanitize this before cooling and to help chilling instead of using a sanitized spoon and stirring. Based on something I read I'm guessing that their pumps are not rated for boiling. Can somebody confirm what temperature their pumps are rated for?
Thanks!
Paul
Click to expand...
You certainly have over 10x more brewing experience than I lol. Ive started my home-brew career with this 10.5g foundry. I will say that I have no clue what the anvil pump is rated for as far as temps but probably should know this myself. Occasionally, during the boil when it is starting and producing a nice foam, before I knew enough to simply lower the power to about 90% (Im on 240V), I simply ran the pump for a short bit at boiling to get rid of the foam. It worked and the pump never ceased but I only ran it for about a minute if that much. Nevertheless, I don't do that anymore because I simply lower the power to 90% to get a nice rolling and consistent boil. I will also say that this pump has worked flawlessly over my 16 batches brewed. I let all my hops roam free in the boil and whirlpool/steep and typically have about 6-7oz of hop pellets in the kettle before pumping to fermenter. when pumping the wort into the fermenter, even towards the end of filling the fermenter, the pump has zero issues when hops are coming through the pump. After done brewing, I simply do a CIP with PBW recirculating through the pump at 150degrees and the pump ALWAYS comes out squeaky clean as well. Although Ive never owned another pump, this pump simply works and works well for me with zero issues.
 
Noob_Brewer said:
I have 16 brews under my belt on the 10.5g foundry and have used the wilser bag inside the maltpipe for 14 of them and prefer the bag for sure to keep debris out of boil when crushing finer. I’ve been wanting to try the bag alone but couldnt find a false bottom that fits without spending and arm and leg for a custom false bottom. Which size FB do you have from the brewzilla? Can you purchase this separately? I’m intrigued by this if it help my mash efficiency but honestly my mash efficiency is now consistently in the 76-78% range depending on grain Bill. So while I’m very happy with this, always open to inproving
Click to expand...
Here is the product on MoreBeer. I had to modify the legs to raise the false bottom so it would clear the foundry's spigot. Replacement Malt Pipe Boiler Screen for 35L Robobrew / BrewZilla | MoreBeer

I show it in my Foundry System Overview Video on my YouTube channel below.
 

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