If you have an oven big enough, you can just put it in the oven to build up the oxide layer. I don't have a big oven, so this wasn't an option, but if you do, I would have preferred to use the oven than burn off propane boiling water I'm just going to dump anyway.
Again, look up the tips for oxide layers, both oven and boiling methods.
I tried doing that with my 32 qt aluminum stock pot (since converted into a kettle) and it did nothing... Put hot tap water into it, set it on the stove and boiled that biotch up for 30+ minutes and it built up a sweet layer.
To clean the pot, after you build the aluminum oxide layer, just use a sponge or rag with some soap on it... Rinse well and you're ready for the next batch...
I guess I'm a bit spoiled by the pot I picked up, since it's nice and thick (4mm)... Zero chance of it getting a crease/kink in it just from pouring wort out of it. Of course, since fitting it with a brass ball valve, the chance that I'll pour wort out of it is slim to nil. Ball valves make things much easier, and they're really easy to install (if you're even moderately handy/intelligent)... I went with the no-weld type, so that I could do it in my apartment. I also make sure that it's not placed where it could be kicked, or otherwise damaged...
For the boil-over concerns, there's a few simple ways to combat this...
1. Use fermcap in the wort, adding as soon as the boil starts, before adding your first hops.
2. Have a spray bottle with water in it and simply spray the foam as it forms. That will knock it down and you won't have an issue.
I have a brew-buddy that uses a smaller aluminum pot, and fermcap so that he gets close to 5 gallons of wort into primary (he has to top off with 2-4 quarts post boil)... He has enough wort in the pot, pre-boil, that it's less than 1" from the edge...
