all grain water help

[ColoradoHomebrew]

I've now been brewing a year with about 40 AG batches and I am ready to tweak the process. Things I want to work on are water chlorine, hardness, PH and maybe sanitizing better. I make really good beer (I think and so do friends) with public unfiltered water and I use idophor with no rinse for everything. I have noticed some slight off flavors with amber colored beers (Alt, ESB, Amber) Doing some reading here and the first and foremost, I think I need a charcoal water filter. I am going to lowes today and would love a recommendation. Should I look at just a carbon filter or the complete deal?

Next, I read in one place idophor can cause some undesirable phenols. Is this true? Should I switch to something?

Some back ground. The off flavors are what I would describe as slightly earthy bitterness but not enough to make the beer taste bad. Still very good. I read a ton about Band-aide flavor, and maybe that is what it is but I think different people describe it differently.

Also, would love any recommendations on tweaking water. I am going to test mash PH. I love to brew economical beer so I am not interested in buying water.

 

[Nateo]

The worst non-infected beer I ever made, I was trying to emulate Burton water. It's really easy to overdo water treatments, so use a very light touch. As long as your mash pH is correct, and your water isn't just awful, water treatments are the least important thing you can focus on.

Activated charcoal will help with chlorine, as long as you keep the flow slow enough. I use an RV filter in-line with my hose.

 

[mabrungard]

Dechlorination is a very important component of good brewing if using municipal water. An activated carbon filter is a good alternative and is the preferred method if the water has other taste and odor issues. If the water is otherwise taste and odor free, then Campden tablets are an easy way to strip chlorine compounds from the water prior to brewing.

Iodophor does not create any off flavors. Even if used with no rinsing. The phenols experienced by the OP are more likely due to the failure to dechlorinate the tap water prior to use. I feel that having alternate sanitizers is a good idea. I alternate the use of iodophor and starsan in my brewing.

If an activated carbon filter is used, the flow rate through the filter must be limited in order to give the water enough contact time with the carbon. The flow rate through the standard 10" filter canister should be no greater than 1 gallon per minute to achieve high removal for both chlorine or chloramine.

The off-flavors the OP mention could include a number of sources. Who knows if the dechlorination will solve them all. Another significant contributor to off flavor is high mash pH. I don't know what the alkalinity of the water in Castle Rock, CO is, but if it is a little high, high mash pH might develop in amber and lighter colored beer mashes. Its something to keep an eye on. Conversely, if the local water has very little alkalinity. Then brewing amber and darker beers might create conditions where the mash pH falls too low. Understanding the characteristics of the local water will help to decipher what should be done to improve a local water. All brewers should understand that there is no way that any water source can be ideal for brewing any beer. Some water chemistry adjustment MUST be made to tailor a water to brew the full spectrum of beer.

Amen to Nate's point about overdoing water adjustments. There are far too many resources in print and on the web that either allow or guide a brewer to overdose their water with minerals. Keeping ion concentrations modest is a very good goal. Bru'n Water includes a set of beer-color based water profiles that were developed on the premise of adding only minimal amounts of ions to avoid overdosing. I've also included water profiles from places like Burton, but brewers should understand that just because that water existed does not mean that the local brewers used it without treatment. When in doubt, leave it out.

If a brewer's tap water is good, there may be little need to resort to the extreme recommendations of the Water Primer in the Brewing Science stickys. But to know if the water is good, testing results are needed. Get the water test results and review the recommendations and guidance in the Water Knowledge page of Bru'n Water. That will provide a brewer with proper guidance on using their tap water effectively. Of course, using Bru'n Water software will help a brewer avoid the pitfalls common to many simpler brewing programs.

 

[Nateo]

I don't know if Castle Rock is on a different water source, but I brewed for years with Denver municipal water with good results. That water was ideal for amber beers, and my ESBs always turned out especially good. I just ran it (very slowly) through a Brita-type sink filter.

PS - I'm really jealous you can brew 40 batches a year. I brewed every other week when I live in Denver, but I don't have nearly as much free time now. I'm lucky to brew once a month now.

 

[thetragichero]

he needs that rocky mountain water!

 

[ColoradoHomebrew]

Don't get me wrong, I think the beer is good, just want to master every aspect of brewing. From what I am reading yeast management and water management will be the most difficult tasks. I already am washing yeast with great results. Castle Rock has city water that comes from an aquifer. Unfortunately they do not have a useful water report, just the EPA minimum so I'd have to get it tested. Not really willing to do that yet. I will get a carbon filter and some PH test strips just to track the mash to start.

BTW 40 batches of AG a year is easy and I have 4 kids 6 and under. Always brew two batches at the same time. 1 batch is 4.5 hours, 2 is about 6 hours with one brew kettle.

In addition, I oxygenate by shaking 2-3 minutes with superb success. Quick fermentation and complete. Is there any negative to not buying oxygen and doing it my way? Not sure if this may relate to phenols.

 

[wolfman_48442]

You really need to get your water analyzed to be able to know where to go.
My Detroit water is ideal for darker beers, but I've just got too many minerals for pale beers. I cut my filtered tap water about 40% with RO water to make kolsch and ESB styles, and they come out great with very minimal mineral additions.
Pilsners - just use 100% RO, Pilsen water is darn near TDS free anyway.
I usually have to use some acid as well to get my ph down where it should be. My water ph is about 7.8 and pale malts don't lower that enough for me.

Also, Martin's Bru'n Water profiles by beer color are awesome, and I use them more often than not.

 

[Spunkmeyer]

You really need to get your water analyzed to be able to know where to go.

+1.

Also, Martin's Bru'n Water profiles by beer color are awesome, and I use them more often than not.

+1 as well. Personally I think EZ Water Calculator is a good place for beginners to start, but in no way mean to take anything away from Martin's work. It's where you'll end up eventually...

 

[ColoradoHomebrew]

What does RO water cost?

 

[NorsemenRugby58]

my $.02...

Get your water analyzed. I was lucky had a great water report. If you think your beer is good now, it will be taken to great. I cannot stress enough my experience with other All-Grain brewers that I met that sincerely THOUGHT they were making good beer. I offended them, I have strong opinions. I told them that the beer you are making probably isn't bad, but if you think its great already, wait till you adjust your water and start dialing it in, it will surely take your brewing to new heights.

It is responsible for the single greatest improvement in my brewing, without a doubt. I am 100% sure it will be for you. Some tips that worked for me, but others may have different opinions.

1.) Get your water report, it IS A MUST
2.) I don't use RO water, I use distilled and cut
3.) Use Bru'n Water, its a free spreadsheet that will make your adjustments for you
4.) Learn what the different minerals do
5.) Buy an electronic gram scale, a mili-liter lab beaker

Adjust your water, and enjoy your good beer stepping up to great!

 

[eppo]

Definitely get your water analyzed... But high sulphates cause bitterness. I have an issue with high sulphates in my water. I was using a carbon filter. Entered my esb in nhc last year and got dinged because it was too bitter. Since then I've changed to bottled spring water and that bitterness is gone.
Something to think about.

 

[kh54s10]

I've been having great luck just using tap water filtered with a Brita filter. I have not had any analysis done but I and my friends really like my beer.

It is slow and a PITA though!

Gotta get another cartridge before the next brew so it goes a little faster!

 

[ColoradoHomebrew]

I got a charcoal whole house filter yesterday and will build it to hook to a hose to control the flow rate.

I am guessing that my neighbors will have the same water report so I will go to my next local brew club meeting to ask around. It seems several of us that live near each other should be able to share a report since it is public water. I have to assume the characteristics of the water change often, so I am not so sure how one report is sufficient.

 

[fxdude]

I use campden tablets and a 5.2 PH stabilizer for my water treatments. I need to test the water before and after I add them to compare the results.