Airlock activity won't stop

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

PicKeM

Member
Joined
Oct 25, 2014
Messages
10
Reaction score
0
I am fermenting an amber ale with Wyeast 1098 at present. Primary period of attenuation seemed to last 3-4 days (bubbling stopped after that period). I kept the fermenter in a tub of cold water to maintain temperature. After the initial 3-4 days, I allowed the temp to rise to 23-24*C from 21*C. After a week and a half, the airlock started bubbling again. I then dry hopped as well, and, 4 days later it is still bubbling (~ once every 30 seconds). I removed the fermenter from the tub of water a few times over the course of fermentation to change the water in the tub.

I've never had this before. I realize that it could be: a) dissolved CO2 coming out of the beer, b) a gusher or other infection (although my sanitation procedures have never let me down before), c) some of the yeast have gotten kicked back into action.

What seems most likely? And it's been in primary for just over 2 weeks now-- should I leave it until the bubbling stops or should I take an OG reading and bottle if it's where I want it?
 
Probably just degassing from temperature changes and agitating the fermenter. Your beer is most likely finished and ready to bottle. The only true way to confirm is to take gravity measurements over a few days, but truth be told, I don't think it's necessary. Some yeasts are known for getting stuck and finishing slowly, but 1098 is tried and true. If it's been 2 weeks after the primary bubbling stopped, it's done.
 
Take a hydrometer sample for SG and a taste. Take another sample at seven days after dry hopping. If the SG is the same fermentation is at final gravity. I would let the beer sit for a few more days if the last hydrometer sample was still hazy.
Don't try to rush the fermentation, it will take as long as it takes. Dry hop after fermentation is done and most of the CO2 produced by the fermentation has left solution. Off gassing CO2 will scrub dry hop aromas from the beer.
Typical scenario might be, with one ounce of hop pellets, dry hopping at 14 to 17 days, bottling at 21 to 24 days.
 
Take a hydrometer sample for SG and a taste. Take another sample at seven days after dry hopping. If the SG is the same fermentation is at final gravity. I would let the beer sit for a few more days if the last hydrometer sample was still hazy.
Don't try to rush the fermentation, it will take as long as it takes. Dry hop after fermentation is done and most of the CO2 produced by the fermentation has left solution. Off gassing CO2 will scrub dry hop aromas from the beer.
Typical scenario might be, with one ounce of hop pellets, dry hopping at 14 to 17 days, bottling at 21 to 24 days.

I'm heeding your advice. The SG is 1.016 so it's probably finished, but I'm content leaving it in there for a couple more days before I bottle. It tastes good; it's definitely not infected. I may lose a bit of the hop aroma, but I'm not too bothered by that.
 
Back
Top