I look at this when I'm considering yeast substitutions and I want to be fairly close to the same yeast character.
They don't. They are already at or through that stage at the time they are harvested and dried. So they are pretty much ready to begin fermentation and they also have all the nutrients included with them too.
Use a whisk, or stir briskly for a minute, whipping air into the wort/beer.
Once it's fermenting, no. Aeration or oxygenation at that point will oxidize the beer, which is bad.
Are you planning on using compressed pure oxygen (little red canisters, or a welding tank) or just air?
But you may need to send it through a HEPA filter first.
Do you think you got it clean enough to use in wort/beer?
I'd be careful refilling disposables. You got to know what their pressure limits are. I doubt it's 2000 psi like the large commercial/welding ones.
Those little tanks are a lot easier to handle and move around than your large one.
Yes, it only needs a liter (or 2) of (pure) oxygen to attain 8-10 ppm DO in a 5 gallon batch. Both a slower dosage rate and moving the wand around will allow more oxygen to dissolve before it reaches the surface. Any bubbling or surface rippling is oxygen that didn't get dissolved, so try to minimize that.
I might have a play around at home for the benefit of others, not that it's something I'd do as I'm selling a D size oxygen cylinder and regulator now that I have an oxygen generator.
I still use a cooler brew system and poor my wort into the fermenter so it gets oxygenated as it falls the height of the 5 gallon carboy. If I brew a 1.060 or greater brew, I do think about oxygenating but usually save this step for really big beers.
I should have explained that my wort is hot when it goes into the fermenter, at least this time around. I went to a bucket, and the bucket went in the pool. Next time I'll use an All-Rounder, and the wort will have to be colder. But I think I should still be able to scoop out a lot of hops before the chill.
Where did you get your O2 generator? Does it have enough pressure to push through an oxygen stone?
Now I might be the one missing something. I know that hot water can't hold as much disolved oxygen as cold water can, so I assume that's true of wort - if you're aerating hot wort, wouldn't the amount of oxygen be reduced by the time the wort is at pitching temp? I'm no expert - curious what others think.
I stopped using O2 because of the infection risk posed by all the little crooks and crannies in the "stone" and switched to using a single drop of olive oil. Nobody ever noticed.
Most definitely, or the heat will shrink your All-Rounder in no time. Plastics and heat...
If you have to recoil your IC, you may wish to consider uncoiling it all the way and shoving it into a garden hose to make a counter flow chiller... it's really not that hard to do. With mine at about 33' long and my groundwater temp of 58°, I get pitching temp in one pass with the water supply valve only about a 1/3 open.
They're very good fermenters from what I gathered plus you can pressure ferment too, using a spunding valve. And purge kegs with fermentation gas.
You need some headspace to keep the bucket above water in your pool. Just prevent splashing hot wort, you don't want wort aeration at that point.
No need to, save your gas. You actually want to aerate the chilled wort before (or right after) pitching yeast, splashing is good!
I bought it at an auction.
