Accuflex Bev-Seal Connection to Draft Tower

[philm63]

Just ordered some Accuflex Bev-Seal line, 3/16" ID, and I'm going to want to connect it to my draft tower - a standard round riser with two faucets mounted to a Kegerator.

I also ordered the John Guest fittings for connection to the ball-locks at the keg, but for now I plan on connecting the other end of the lines directly to the small metal tubes coming out the back of the shanks inside the tower.

Question: Has anyone tried or better, succeeded in getting the JG fittings inside a standard round tower? I'm thinking the JG shank fitting to a JG 90; but would there be enough room?

The other option I'm considering ($$$) is getting a new tower with a T-configuration (stainless box on top of the round riser) - this would likely afford plenty of room to make that 90 with JG fittings, but I'd like to try it in my present tower first instead of shelling out $375 for a new tower.

EDIT - Just realized this should probably go in the Bottling/Kegging sub-forum, no? Please move if so.

 

[IslandLizard]

EDIT - Just realized this should probably go in the Bottling/Kegging sub-forum, no? Please move if so.

Yes. Moved to Bottling/Kegging forum.

 

[philm63]

Pulled the tower apart last night and realized the small metal tubes coming out of the back of the tower shanks are integral to the shank - no way to attach a fitting directly to the end of the shank so the next question is; is there a tower shank made for this application? Short shank, just threaded at the end; no integral tube bent to a 90? Or am I just asking for trouble? Would I be better off just pushing the Accuflex onto those integral metal tubes and be done with it?

 

[Bobby_M]

I heat the tubing with a heat gun, insert a tapered tool to flare it and also bend a 90. Hold in position as it cools or run unger cold water to set it.

Pulled the tower apart last night and realized the small metal tubes coming out of the back of the tower shanks are integral to the shank - no way to attach a fitting directly to the end of the shank so the next question is; is there a tower shank made for this application? Short shank, just threaded at the end; no integral tube bent to a 90? Or am I just asking for trouble? Would I be better off just pushing the Accuflex onto those integral metal tubes and be done with it?

 

[philm63]

Thanks for the tip, Bobby (yes, I ordered the line and fittings from you - thanks!). Can this 90 be bent into the line without kinking? Any tricks to doing this?

 

[Bobby_M]

Heat is really the trick. I use a cheap Harbor Freight heat gun but I bet a hair dryer on high held close would get it there also. Boiling water works on PVC but the ultra stuff doesn't soften enough at 200F.

 

[lump42]

Kegland is supposed to begin distributing their tower shanks that are compatible with doutight fittings. They may work for bev-seal/ john guest setups.

 

[dbayub]

I just rebuilt a tower like that, and just stuck the barb and bev-seal in boiling water for 30 seconds (working with heat resistant rubber gloves) and pushed the tubing onto the 3/16 barb. Once cooled, it's a tight fit that does not leak.

 

[cwise]

I am eagerly waiting for the intertap tower shanks with the duotight barb (I think this is the kegland shank mentioned earlier). In the meantime I boiled the end of the tubing, used a smooth chopstick to expand the I.d., and slipped the tubing over the barb (more like forced it over the barb with lots of swearing). I clamped the tubing just to be extra safe.
Also, I recomend a 90 degree John guest elbow at the base of the tower to make the stiff tubing more manageable.

 

[philm63]

... Also, I recomend a 90 degree John guest elbow at the base of the tower to make the stiff tubing more manageable.

Brilliant!

 

[IslandLizard]

Brilliant!

Also stick one on the liquid QD.