Accidentally made 6 gal. batch 5 gal.

[Brewdawg81]

Hi all. I brewed an extract batch (Northern Brewer Heady Topper) that was supposed to be 6 gal, but when transferring from primary bucket, noticed that I'd only filled to 5 gal. per my normal batches. Maybe a few too many homebrews on brew nite. Looking to those of you experts that might've made the same or similar mistake, and wondering the best way to remedy this.

Brewed 10/18, and put in dry hop # 1 on 10/30, according to instructions. Supposed to leave in primary 4 days, and transfer to secondary (just did now), wait 1-2 weeks), then dry hop #2 four days before kegging.

I suppose it could be awesome left as-is, but DIPA's are already pretty heavy for my taste, and was hoping to compare to the Pliny clone I've been brewing. Should I add a gallon of water that's been boiled and left (covered) to room temp, or would this do something to make it worse? And if so, when - now, before DH#2? Any better, more informed ideas?

 

[BigJack]

Did you take gravity readings?

That would help us better direct you.

 

[Brewdawg81]

No, sorry. Brewed over 100 batches, and haven't bothered to take readings since about the 3rd batch, since they all tasted good. Sorry. But regardless, wouldn't it require more water to be true to the recipe, as long as adding it this late won't do something to mess it up? Thanks for any insight you can provide.

 

[Billy-Klubb]

I'm sure it would work. I've always left my volumes alone after fermentation unless I was blending. and then it was with wort or beer.

 

[Sailingeric]

More beer, what is the problem?

 

[Billy-Klubb]

More beer, what is the problem?

no, it was a bigger batch made into a smaller batch. less beer, but probably stronger.

 

[atom]

i'd let it alone. also...stop transferring ipas (and most other beers) to secondary.

 

[Hello]

I'd leave it be. If you (or we) knew your gravity readings, then maybe suggesting something else could happen. Short of that, i would leave it. Taste it when it is done and see if it is too heavy. If it is, then add the water I suppose.

While you've brewed 100+ batches, I would get in the habit of taking a gravity reading now and then. It's easy to do and takes little to no time. If you're willing to follow instructions that actually say ferment for 4 days then transfer to secondary, then it seems you'd take a least a reading or two as well.

 

[UndeadFred]

Either add sanitized water (and water down the IBU's a bit) or accept that you will have an ABV 20% higher than the kit says..

On an IPA I'd go for the alcohol content... if it were a "dark low IBU" beer or a pale ale.. I'd add water.. do it before the yeast are done..

In either case you would not, by a long shot, "ruin" the batch...

Fred

 

[m00ps]

I routinely make batches anywhere from 5-6 gallons since Ive never once took the time to measure my water going into the kettle. Itll be fine, I doubt youd even notice the like 0.5%abv difference in the final product. Plus, youll have more beer once its finished

But yeah, the hydrometer is your friend. Its the onyl way of knowing for sure if your beer is finished.

 

[Hobnob]

If the beer in the primary was at 5 gallons, minus the yeast cake, you might be a little less than 5 gallons. For 6-gallon recipes (like this one from NB), it's assuming 5 gallons of FINISHED beer. It's 6 gallons after boil and this is accounting for a half gallon of trub, etc.. Then, transferring from the boil kettle, it's 5.5 gallons into the fermenter. After that, it's 5 gallons of finished beer to the bottle or keg. So, sounds like you may be a little under 5 gallons if the primary on the yeast was showing 5 gallons, but I wouldn't worry about it. You should only be topping off to make 5 gallons total.

A gravity reading is important to make sure the yeast attenuated fully. This is a decent-sized beer at 1.070 and isn't cheap either. Either way, taste it. If you like it, great. If not, blend a little beer and water in a glass and see if that's better, but according to the recipe, it's 5 gallons after it's all said and done. Hope this helps!

Cheers!

 

[Brewdawg81]

Okay, I feel sufficiently chastised for not using my hydrometer. Seriously, though, thanks for all the responses - especially Undead Fred - good call on adding the water before the yeast is done, and picking up on the fact that in DIPA, IBU's can be as important as ABV.

Couple of notes - I normally secondary only when clarity might be desirable. In this case, because I wanted to replicate the recipe exactly (and this batch uses 13 oz. hops).

But I am curious about the dedication to the readings...I've never cared much about exact ABV, and so I was always reluctant to create opportunities for contamination. So what other kind of benefits to you all get from taking the readings? I can see instances of potentially waiting a little longer for yeast to finish on occasion, but what else? Can you give me examples of how it's helped? I'm always willing to learn, even though I'm a lazy brewer.

 

[Billy-Klubb]

I take readings so I know that I'm hitting my target OG and I know that I'm hitting consistent FG. if you want to replicate the recipe exactly, I believe it's important to know you're hitting your targets. I've had some bottle bombs before (scary) and I want to make sure that doesn't happen again due to bottling unfinished beer. we've all heard the responses of, "I've been doing it like this for 'x' amount of time with no problems..." some of our responses may come off as brash, but we really do try to help others from making the same mistakes we have made. you can take the advice or leave it. that's something only you can decide.

 

[m00ps]

on another note, are you still trying to secondary that beer? DO NOT do it. It can only hurt hop forward beers. Dont put 13oz of hops into something if you are just going to let oxygen strip all the aroma and flavor out of it before you get to drink it