a few basic questions

[malevinson]

Please help me by answering one or more of my random questions.
Thanks a bunch this forum is really great!


1)
I've read that a secondary fermentor isnt always necessary these days. Does this have anything to do with the gravity of the beer? I'm asking because I did the DFH 90min w/ 2ndary and there is quite a bit of yeast/proteins in the bottom of the bottle (but it tastes fantastic). I also brewed a lower gravity IPA w/o a 2ndary and had the same buildup at the bottom. I believe I read on these forums to just pour the bottle to about horizontal and leave the residue behind, is that the standard in these situations or can i improve the "clarity" in the bottle at all?

2)
I haven't seen too much talk about lagers on here. What is the cheapest way to ferment these? Can an old fridge work set at a higher temperature?

3)
I used a yeast starter on my DFH90 but what about yeast nutrients? Do nutrients do anything besides speed up the fermentation?

4)
I've read that a glass fermentor is more airtight than the plastic bucket that came with my kit. The beer is only in the primary for a week but in the long run is it better to get a glass primary? I'm not sure how one would go about pitching and stirring if the only glass options are carboys...

5)
I've had some issues with my kit bottling wand getting suck on a few times during bottling. I guess I'm looking for a higher end bottling wand.

6)
Instead of cooling my wort in the sink can I just add sterile ice cubes directly to it? I've been doing this and it really speeds up the process.

7)
Why must the priming sugar to cooled before mixing with the beer? I've just figured 2 cups of hot solution mixed with 5 gallons won't make it much warmer overall.

8)
Is shipping the yeast cold worth the 2 bucks or can I just fridge it right away when I get it?

9)
How long will say a DFH90 min have a constant taste? I heard it may turn more sweet and less bitter but I dont know after how long. What about for an average IPA?

 

[malevinson]

Also I just broke my hydrometer (again) and was wondering if any non brewing stores have them? Brew store is far away

 

[Captain Damage]

1) I've read that a secondary fermentor isnt always necessary these days. Does this have anything to do with the gravity of the beer? I'm asking because I did the DFH 90min w/ 2ndary and there is quite a bit of yeast/proteins in the bottom of the bottle (but it tastes fantastic).

2ndary is needed for very high gravity beers such as barleywines that need to be aged for months to years. You generally don;t want to age an IPA for that long.

I also brewed a lower gravity IPA w/o a 2ndary and had the same buildup at the bottom. I believe I read on these forums to just pour the bottle to about horizontal and leave the residue behind, is that the standard in these situations or can i improve the "clarity" in the bottle at all?

Just be careful when siphoning not to suck up too much tub. The carbonating process is actively cultivating yeast, so you'll always get some sediment. This actually doesn't have much to do with how clear your beer is after conditioning and refrigeration. I always leave about the last 1/2 oz with all the yeast in the bottle.

2) I haven't seen too much talk about lagers on here. What is the cheapest way to ferment these? Can an old fridge work set at a higher temperature?

Yes.

3) I used a yeast starter on my DFH90 but what about yeast nutrients? Do nutrients do anything besides speed up the fermentation?

Nutrients basically help make sure the yeast is as healthy as it can be.

4) I've read that a glass fermentor is more airtight than the plastic bucket that came with my kit. The beer is only in the primary for a week but in the long run is it better to get a glass primary? I'm not sure how one would go about pitching and stirring if the only glass options are carboys...

The glass is impermeable to oxygen, the plastic buckets are not. However, they're resistant enough that your beer will be fine for a few weeks. I do almost all of my fermenting in PET (plastic) Better Bottle carboys, which are impermeable to oxygen and easier - and safer - to deal with than glass.

5) I've had some issues with my kit bottling wand getting suck on a few times during bottling. I guess I'm looking for a higher end bottling wand.

Spring loaded ones are available.

6) Instead of cooling my wort in the sink can I just add sterile ice cubes directly to it? I've been doing this and it really speeds up the process.

If it works for you, stick with it.

7) Why must the priming sugar to cooled before mixing with the beer? I've just figured 2 cups of hot solution mixed with 5 gallons won't make it much warmer overall.

It doesn't need to be cooled. Who told you that?

8) Is shipping the yeast cold worth the 2 bucks or can I just fridge it right away when I get it?

Find a place that doesn't charge extra to ship the yeast properly. Northern Brewer includes a cold pack with the yeast at no extra charge.

9) How long will say a DFH90 min have a constant taste? I heard it may turn more sweet and less bitter but I dont know after how long. What about for an average IPA?

Hard to say. Keeping it cold will help it last longer. Each beer will be different.

Also I just broke my hydrometer (again) and was wondering if any non brewing stores have them? Brew store is far away

Maybe you can find one at a cooking store or restaurant supply store?

 

[ajf]

1. See http://blog.beeriety.com/2009/07/08/the-proper-beer-pours/

2. A freezer is much better than a fridge as it will be able to get down to lagering temperatures (low 30's) without difficulty, but you will need a temperature controller like http://www.northernbrewer.com/brewi...on-controls-a419-digital-temp-controller.html

3. See http://maltosefalcons.com/tech/yeast-propagation-and-maintenance-principles-and-practices for some good information on yeast nutrients

4. I prefer carboys, but there is nothing wrong with buckets. If you don't break them, carboys last virtually forever, while buckets eventually get scratched (especially if SWMBO uses them for non-brewing purposes). As for pitching, I just pour the yeast through a funnel, and the yeast does all the stirring for me.

5. I never had any problem when I used to use a bottling wand, so I can't comment.

6. If the ice is sterile, I don't see any problem with that.

7. I completely agree with you.

8. In the summer, I would definitely spend the extra cash (or buy the yeast locally). I wouldn't bother during the colder weather.

9. My IPA's don't get more sweet and less bitter. They do gradually lose the hop aroma, but still taste good for a couple months.

10. Buy 2, or get a refractometer for OG, and a finishing hydrometer for FG.

-a.

 

[beerloaf]

No the secondary is not needed but more of a personal preference and also I racked my last batch into a secondary carboy because at the moment I only have 1 Ale Pale primary bucket. I will soon get another one. Some on here do it to make room or to add specialized flavors during secondary fermentation. Otherwise just keep it simple and use your primary longer. It's been proven to work really well.

If you're in Baltimore right now is a good time to make lager if your basement/garage temps are staying cool.

I did not use any yeast nutrients on my last high gravity brew with OG of 1.084. Just made a yeast starter and took off crazy the next day. Dropped it to 1.012 FG a week later. Depending on beer and gravity you may have to pitch yeast later in ferm. Not uncommon with high gravity beers. Depends on recipe.

Also if you're ordering yeast when it's warmer as in summer time or late spring, pay the extra for the icepack. Righ now you can probably get away with not needing it depending on where you get it shipped from. If it were me, I would pay the extra just to not have to worry about it.

Regarding cooling priming sugar, you don't have to. As long as it's not boiling anymore it should be fine. It's not going to hurt anything.


hope this helps
beerloaf

 

[malevinson]

thanks for the replies

i found the link on yeast nutrients quite interesting. I will definitely be rigging up a Pasteur gooseneck type flask out of some tubing for my next starter. I think a lack of yeast cells was the reason my DFH90 was about .6% ABV weaker. My OG was dead on so I was frustrated with the end result but this must be why.

 

[dpu2002]

Find a place that doesn't charge extra to ship the yeast properly. Northern Brewer includes a cold pack with the yeast at no extra charge.

Northern Brewer charges 99 cents. Or maybe they're ripping me off if you're getting it for free.