A Brewing Water Chemistry Primer

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Thanks for the .pdf, cire. Had no idea these were typical levels in Britain and again, it's really gratifying for me to gain some of your perspective and the British perspective generally. Really looking forward to trying this out.

Many thanks again.
 
I don't know why I missed this on the first several passes through the forum, and I understand the cautions (that apply to HCL as well); I also hope I'm not hijacking but because it was so difficult to find, in the event anyone in the U.S. is looking for food-grade sulfuric in reasonable quantities, I did find 25% sulfuric here.

Never mind, sorry - unless you want to make a $50 min. order.
 
This has been a great read for the last year or so...thanks for all the great info. I finally got around to purchasing the right items (ph meter, conductivity meter, ward lab test) to test my system and hone in on pH so that I could understand my water and put the primer to use. I thought I would post my results as it is a good example of why measuring for yourself is so important.

I do Brew in a Bag- full water upfront 8.5 gallons. ( perhaps the reason for the odd results?)

Tap Water as measured by ward:Na 2.5, K 2, Ca 49, Mg 10, hardness 164, sulfate 5, CL 47, Bicarbonate 184, total alkalinity 152. My tds meter reads 211.

Based on the high alkalinity- plan was to use straight RO per the primer. However I did a comparison with the tap water after the RO results came in so low.

Results:
- 8.5gallons of tap water, 10 lbs of 2-row, mashed at 153, ph sample taken at 15 min, room temp = 5.6 - lower than expected.
- 0.5 gallon of RO water (Walmart primo), tds reads 12, mashed with 0.7 lbs 2-row to keep same water to grain ration, 15 min room temp sample = 5.25. - much lower than expected.

During these tests I started doubting my ph meter so I bought new standards to recalibrate and took my meter to work (R&D lab) and every time it read the buffers right on. I had planned to do other tests with ph effects for CaCl, lactic acid and roasted malts but I am stuck in a state of confusion as to why these results are much lower than expected. Perhaps it's the BIAB or perhaps it's the 2-row, though I tried another 2-row source I had on hand And got even lower results (5.15) on a similar small test mash.

I wanted to use RO water going forward but I can't imagine how low the ph would get with CaCl and any other roasted specialty malts- Not sure what direction to go in but Just thought Id share the results and reiterate the importance of measuring for your system.
 
I just got my Ward Lab results back for my brewing water in Natick, Massachusetts. I hope it helps others looking for a brew-friendly Natick Water Profile. I use a food grade hose off my outdoor faucet and run it through a Camco TastePURE Inline Water Filter. I have only been brewing for 6 months and have done a couple saisons, a pale ale, and a couple IPAs. Any advice for what I should do to make my IPAs taste better based on my water?

The results:
pH: 7.5
Total Dissolved Salts, (TD) Est. ppm: 316
Electrical Conductivity, mmho/cm: 0.53
Cations / Anions, me/L: 4.8 / 4.5

ppm:
Sodium, Na: 50
Potassium, K: 19
Calcium, Ca: 30
Magnesium, Mg: 7
Total Hardness, CaCO
3: 104
Nitrate, NO
3-N: 0.6 (SAFE)
Sulfate, SO
4-S: 5
Chloride, Cl: 87
Carbonate, CO
3: <1.0
Bicarbonate, HCO
3: 99
Total Alkalinity, CaCO
3: 82
"<" - Not detected / Below Detection Limit
 
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I'm making a tripel today and this will be my first time brewing with RO water. I am from Carmel IN, I have read that my city water is very unsuitable for brewing because of the alkalinity.

My total water usage will be 8.33 gallons. The only ingredients I have to modify the water on hand are table salt, gypsum, and epsom. Does this look like a decent baseline to brew with?
 

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Given the burdensome constraint that springs from your not having any calcium chloride on hand, I would consider adding only the following to your 8.33 gallons of RO water:

6.8 grams Gypsum (to achieve 50 ppm calcium and 120 ppm sulfate)
4.0 grams table salt (iodine free, to achieve 77 ppm chloride and 50 ppm sodium)

You do not need any magnesium.
 
Given the burdensome constraint that springs from your not having any calcium chloride on hand, I would consider adding only the following to your 8.33 gallons of RO water:

6.8 grams Gypsum (to achieve 50 ppm calcium and 120 ppm sulfate)
4.0 grams table salt (iodine free, to achieve 77 ppm chloride and 50 ppm sodium)

You do not need any magnesium.

Thank you, I'll have CaCl on hand for next time. I figure even this is better than using the sulfate ridden alkaline city water I have.
 
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Admittedly I have not read thru all 1447 posts to this thread to find this answer myself; can someone tell me if the British Beer is an additional tsp of CaCl or just the one in the baseline plus the gypsum (1 or 2 tsp of CaCl + 1 Gypsum)?
 
Ok....can someone help me with additions for an Irish red using RO water? Thanks in advance! I used this primer for a stout I did and it turned out fantastic!
 
Admittedly I have not read thru all 1447 posts to this thread to find this answer myself; can someone tell me if the British Beer is an additional tsp of CaCl or just the one in the baseline plus the gypsum (1 or 2 tsp of CaCl + 1 Gypsum)?

It’s one teaspoon of each. However based on my own trials and my own water, that is a bit much especially if your bitter is very session-able. I’d recommend trying half a teaspoon of each per 5 gals. But it’s up to you.
 
Plan on brewing sip of sunshine from July/August issue of zymurgy. Using 10.5 gal distilled water for a 6 gal batch. My question lies in the predicted PH from Bru n water(5.12). Based on the grain bill and the 5g/gal gypsum and calcium chloride. Wouldn’t this PH be too low for an IPA? From what I’ve read and heard, too low of a PH will subdue the hop flavor and aroma. I don’t even go this low for my kölsch.

Maybe I’ll just roll with it because that’s the recipe.

https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/homebrew-recipe/lawsons-sip-sunshine-ipa-clone/
 
Plan on brewing sip of sunshine from July/August issue of zymurgy. Using 10.5 gal distilled water for a 6 gal batch. My question lies in the predicted PH from Bru n water(5.12). Based on the grain bill and the 5g/gal gypsum and calcium chloride. Wouldn’t this PH be too low for an IPA? From what I’ve read and heard, too low of a PH will subdue the hop flavor and aroma. I don’t even go this low for my kölsch.

Maybe I’ll just roll with it because that’s the recipe.

https://www.homebrewersassociation.org/homebrew-recipe/lawsons-sip-sunshine-ipa-clone/

I'd be shocked if this recipe mashes at below 5.3 pH. My software points to 5.37 pH. It will be interesting to hear your actual mash pH results for a sample drawn at 15-20 minutes into the mash, and fully cooled to room temperature before taking the reading.
 
I'd be shocked if this recipe mashes at below 5.3 pH. My software points to 5.37 pH. It will be interesting to hear your actual mash pH results for a sample drawn at 15-20 minutes into the mash, and fully cooled to room temperature before taking the reading.

What software do you use for PH?
 
Based on the grain bill and the 5g/gal gypsum and calcium chloride. Wouldn’t this PH be too low for an IPA? From what I’ve read and heard, too low of a PH will subdue the hop flavor and aroma.

Are you sure about the mineral addition rate? 5 grams per gallon of either or both of the minerals is going to produce a highly mineralized wort. Higher than I'd prefer. Was this 5 grams total added to the 10.5 gallons? That's more reasonable.

If starting with distilled water, there is no way that the mashing pH would ever be above 5.3 with that mineral dosage.
 
Just random question here. Will the ph really subdue Hop aroma/flavor? I’ve talked to some professional brewers who are taking their “hazey IPAs” down to around 5.2 for the mash then getting it to around 4.5 post boil which to his statement helps the hops shine he got this tip from the guys at old nation.
 
I presumed 5 grams each of CaCl2 and CaSO4 into 5 gallons, and not 5 grams of each mineral per individual gallon. My brain didn't allow me to read what was actually typed. I can't imagine adding 10 grams of total calcium salts to each gallon. And I presume that the OP didn't imagine this either.
 
Just random question here. Will the ph really subdue Hop aroma/flavor? I’ve talked to some professional brewers who are taking their “hazey IPAs” down to around 5.2 for the mash then getting it to around 4.5 post boil which to his statement helps the hops shine he got this tip from the guys at old nation.

Most definitely, lower pH reduces the extraction of hop components in a well-bittered beer like IPA. However, you cite NEIPA and that style is not as bittered and the focus is more on juicy and estery hop and malt flavors. It is desirable to reduce pH below 5.4 to soften the bittering and to improve the crispness and vibrancy of the end product.
 
The bittering acids are like most others in that their solubilities increase when they are depotonated which happens at higher pH so the efficiency of bittering is reduced at lower pH. However the question is about hop flavors and aromas which is an entirely different question as the source of those is oils which aren't acids. pH probably still plays a role in their solubility but not nearly to the extent that it does with the lupulones and humulones. I have no idea what the chemistry is with these oils but your correspondent's statements suggest that lower pH enhances aroma/flavor. As these guys are doubtless smart enought to know that this comes at the expense of hops utilization (bitterness) they have doubtless done the trade and decided to go this route. To get the same level of bitterness they would need more hops and, of course, that brings more oils so perhaps their thinking is no more than that they want to use more hops to get more essential oils and, in order to reduce bitterness that would follow, have reduced kettle pH in order to prevent excessive bitterness. This thinking suggests that pH has little to do with oil 'utilization' which is what my gut tells me.
 
Are you sure about the mineral addition rate? 5 grams per gallon of either or both of the minerals is going to produce a highly mineralized wort. Higher than I'd prefer. Was this 5 grams total added to the 10.5 gallons? That's more reasonable.

If starting with distilled water, there is no way that the mashing pH would ever be above 5.3 with that mineral dosage.

Oh shooters sorry that’s a typo. It’s actually 1g/gal of each.
 
So I went into BnW and changed the flaked oats to a ‘base malt’ which adjusted PH to 5.21. So at 1g/gal each of gypsum and CaChl for 10.5 gal of distilled water my additions came out to this.

In the mash of 5 gal of water:
5 grams gypsum
5 grams cal. chloride

Added to boil:
5.5 grams gypsum
5.5 gram cal. Chloride
 
So a mash pH of 5.2 is considered too low for a hoppy beer, yet there will be no hops in the mash. The optimum pH for hop extraction in the boil is said to occur at pH 10, so what happens if highly alkaline water is added to the start of the boil? This would raise pH and increase hop extraction, but would then be eliminated as the boil progressed provided that alkalinity was in calcium form. At the end of the boil that alkalinity should be mostly deposited as calcium carbonate that the post boil pH would be mostly unaffected by that addition.
 
So a mash pH of 5.2 is considered too low for a hoppy beer, yet there will be no hops in the mash.
Brewers usually shoot for a pH at knockout of between 5 and 5.4 being aware that this will result in less extraction of hop bittering principle. If they want higher utilization they will accept a higher kettle pH.

The optimum pH for hop extraction in the boil is said to occur at pH 10, so what happens if highly alkaline water is added to the start of the boil? This would raise pH and increase hop extraction, but would then be eliminated as the boil progressed provided that alkalinity was in calcium form. At the end of the boil that alkalinity should be mostly deposited as calcium carbonate that the post boil pH would be mostly unaffected by that addition.
I'm not sure what is intended here as alkalinity does not come in calcium form. Calcium is a metal - not an alkali. But it reacts with water to produce calcium hydroxide which is. It would only raise pH and there would be no precipitation of calcium carbonate and no restoration to lower pH at the end of the boil. Where would the carbonate come from? And are you really proposing adding calcium metal to the wort?

Now calcium carbonate is an alkali and were one to add that a small part of it would dissolve raising mash pH. If there is phosphate present, and there is in wort, some apatite will precipitate and this will release some protons which will offset the alkalinity of the added calcium carbonate or hydroxide to some extent so the increase in pH won't be as great as it would be were no phosphate present. But it wouldn't re-precipitate and even if it did there would be no restoration to lower pH as protons released in converting bicarbonate to carbonate are consumed in converting other bicarbonate to carbonic when chalk precipitates.
 
It was a question.

I always brew with a not insignificant quantity of alkalinity in my mash liquor and a lesser quantity in my sparge liquor. All of it the result of natural action of rainwater on limestone including calcium and magnesium but not as metals. Alkalinity is sometimes added by brewers when their liquor has too little or no naturally occuring alkalinity and because of the difficulty of getting calcium carbonate to dissolve, then potassium or sodium carbonate or bicarbonate is commonly used. We know (bi)carbonate witll raise wort pH, for it is the pH of wort we measure although it is generally called mash pH to identify the stage. Some but not all calcium bicarbonate forms apatite meaning some alkalinity goes into the boiler where during the boil it will precipitate and its influence of pH will be lost. In the case of sodium and potassium based alkalinity, they will not be precipitated and the effect will be different. I then wondered if naturally alkaline water were added to the kettle to raise pH and extraction at the beginning of the boil it might extract more from the hops but would also have dropped out by the time the wort was transferred to the FV.
 
I always brew with a not insignificant quantity of alkalinity in my mash liquor and a lesser quantity in my sparge liquor. All of it the result of natural action of rainwater on limestone including calcium and magnesium but not as metals. Alkalinity is sometimes added by brewers when their liquor has too little or no naturally occuring alkalinity...
This is, in most cases, a good thing as it means less acid needs to be added. Most brewers will not tolerate high levels of alkalinity in their liquor. It is when lots of dark malts are used or the base malt is of low alkalinity or a combination of the two that some base has to be added in order to achieve proton balance at a reasonable mash pH. Now if one wants lots of chloride or sulfate and happens to have lots of alkalinity in his source he can add acid with the anion he want's and Bob's your uncle. But most breweries would decarbonate by lime treatment, RO or membrabe treatment to get the bulk of the bicarbonate out (leaving the remainder, perhaps, to be cancelled with acid to give desired anion levels). A brewer wanting extra Ca++ or SO4-- can alos take the tack of adding sodium bicarbonate, sodium carbonate, calcium hydroxide, potassium hydroxide, etc. and then neutralizing their alkalinity with hydrochloric or sulfuric acid (remember in this context that 'neutralize' does not mean to bring to pH 7 but rather the desired mash pH). This results in replacement of the alkali species (OH)-, CO3--, HCO3-, with, respectively, water and carbon dioxide which escapes. IMO it's easier to just add the desired salt.

and because of the difficulty of getting calcium carbonate to dissolve, then potassium or sodium carbonate or bicarbonate is commonly used. We know (bi)carbonate witll raise wort pH,
We know bicarbonate will raise pH whenever the pH without it is less than 8.3 for it is an alkali for any pH less than that (and an acid if if pH >8.3). Carbonate ion is more strongly alkaline and OH- stronger still and will act as a base for any pH we might ever expect to have to deal with.

Some but not all calcium bicarbonate forms apatite meaning some alkalinity goes into the boiler where during the boil it will precipitate and its influence of pH will be lost.
Calcium carbonate/bicarbonate does not form apatite. Apatite (C10(PO4)6(OH)2) is formed from the calcium ion, water and biphosphate ions released from the malt. It happens even if all the hardness is permanent hardness (no bicarbonate). Apatite formation starts in the mash tun and completes (to the extent that it is going to complete) in the kettle. When apatite is formed it precipitates as it is extremely insoluble even at mash and kettle pH. In its formation protons are released. These protons will be picked up by any proton absorber (base) in the system and as a result the pH goes down.

In the case of sodium and potassium based alkalinity, they will not be precipitated and the effect will be different. I then wondered if naturally alkaline water were added to the kettle to raise pH and extraction at the beginning of the boil it might extract more from the hops but would also have dropped out by the time the wort was transferred to the FV.
Were you to add water with appreciable temporary calcium hardness and appreciable alkalinity to the kettle the pH would immediately go up as the bicarbonate absorbs protons from the mash. At the same time you have provided more calcium to participate in apatite precipitation releasing protons and reducing the pH rise somewhat. The definition of RA as alkalinity - calcium_concentration/3.5 tells us that the bicarbonate is 3.5 times more effective at increasing alkalinity than apatite formation is at reducing it. The other reaction that will take place if hard, alkaline liquor is heated is the precipitation of chalk by Ca++ +2HCO3- ---> CaCO3 + CO2 + H2O. Note that no protons are released or absorbed in this reaction. Thus precipitation of chalk does not ostensibly result in a change in pH. But the calcium/carbonate system does want to be in equilibrium with the CO2 content of the atmosphere and so naturally heads towards pH 8.3 though it may take a long time to get there. This will not pull 100 hL of wort to pH 8.3 however because of all the other stuff in it.

Summary: Wort in kettle at pHi. Add hard, alkaline liquor. pH immediately rises. As the boil commences apatite precipitates lowering pH a little but not back to pHi. Chalk precipitates. This has minimal effect on pH. The net effect would be the same as if you added the extra liquor at mash in.
 
jesus, there are some smart guys on this section of the forum...anyways, I am not one of them!....I've brewed ~5 AG batches so far and want to try messing with water, but have a question regarding the original post and my water report. All of my numbers are good to go for the baseline except alkalinity. OP says use baseline if alkalinity is less than 35 PPM, my water reports show between 38-41 PPM, but everything else is very low - total hardness was 58....anyone know if the alkalinity being ~4 or 5 PPM higher than 35, if I can still use the baseline and be considered "soft" water?
 
I've read a lot of this thread, but don't have time for all of it. I'm just about to start messing with water for the first time soon. Been brewing with tap for years and occasionally get an off flavor. Also even my good beers with no off flavors don't seem to be quite as good as the local craft breweries. So I've decided it's time for water adjustment to see if that helps. I know this is just a starting point and there is more to water adjustment but wanna start with the original post. But have a few questions. I do BIAB, sparge by pouring 170 degree water over the bag until I have preboil volume. I get 80ish efficiency so I don't up grain bill at all.

1. My next two beers will be the forum famous BierMuncher Centennial Blonde, and an American Wheat. Would both these be in the "soft beers" category?

2. Is Sauermalz still the best PH modifier? I have seen some talk about lactic acid and other things.

3. When using Sauermalz, do I do 2% of the original grain bill then add that to it, or do I take the 2% out of it so the total weight is the same as before the Sauermalz? If that way then what grain do I take out?

4. Lastly my current plan is to buy RO water and treat everything I plan on using for the brew at that start. Before even measuring out, so my water I mash with will be treated as well as will be my sparge water. Anything wrong with this for my start into water adjustment?

Thanks
 
1. My next two beers will be the forum famous BierMuncher Centennial Blonde, and an American Wheat. Would both these be in the "soft beers" category?
Yes. Use about about half a gram of calcium chloride per gallon of RO (half a tsp per 5 gallons). That's all you really need. Experiment with beers as close to these as you can get by adding a little gypsum to them in the glass. If you think it improves the taste then use 1/4 tsp calcium chloride and 1/4 tsp gypsum per gallon.

2. Is Sauermalz still the best PH modifier? I have seen some talk about lactic acid and other things.
Depends on how you define 'best'. Sauermalz is a malt and as such contributes some malt flavors to the beer. As one doesn't use much the flavor contribution is pretty subtle. Some people like this and consider it an important part of their beers. Some don't even notice it. I've never heard anyone say he/she doesn't like it. Sauermalz is essentially malt with lactic acid on it so using lactic acid is pretty much equivalent except for the flavor element and 1 mL of 88% always delivers the same number of protons (to the same pH) whereas sauermalz can be a bit variable. IMO it's easier to measure out a few Oz of sauermalz as you are measuring out grains anyway than to dig out the lactic and a graduated cylinder, measure out the amount of acid you need then clean whatever you measured with and put things away. Some think doing this is easier than measuring out the sauermalz. The other popular acid is phosphoric. It is more flavor neutral than lactic (from sauemalz or a bottle). If you live in the UK there is an equinormal blend of hydrochloric and sulfuric acids available under the trade mark CRS (in home brewing quantities) or AMS in commercial quatities.

3. When using Sauermalz, do I do 2% of the original grain bill then add that to it, or do I take the 2% out of it so the total weight is the same as before the Sauermalz?
Just take the grain bill you are planning on, add 2% sauermalz to than and don't worry about the fact that you have 102% of the original intended weight.


4. Lastly my current plan is to buy RO water and treat everything I plan on using for the brew at that start. Before even measuring out, so my water I mash with will be treated as well as will be my sparge water. Anything wrong with this for my start into water adjustment?
Not at all. There are cases where sparge water may require separate treatment but id RO water is used it isn't necessary. Discussion of the addition of salts or acids to sparge water for kettle pH control is outside the scope of a Primer.
 
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Yes. Use about about half a teaspoonful of calcium chloride per gallon of RO. That's all you really need. Experiment with beers as close to these as you can get by adding a little gypsum to them in the glass. If you think it improves the taste then use 1/4 tsp calcium chloride and 1/4 tsp gypsum per gallon.

Hey thanks man. That helps a lot. Little confused with the first part though, the original post says 1tsp per 5 gallons. Your message above says half tsp per gallon. Which would it be? I assume what ever the answer is that if I use gypsum to replace half of the calcium with it?
 
The original post was written not to reflect solely my personal preference (which has always been 'less is better') but rather the general consensus at the time which was that tablespoons of salt (including chalk) made good beer. This was largely reflective of the British practice of Burtonisation practiced by many home brewers at the time. Since then as equipment and knowledge have grown many home brewers have branched off to brew lager beers as well many of which do rely on very soft water and so the consensus now seems to be that more brewers will find the beers acceptable with half the original amounts than with the original amounts. You will find this mentioned several times in the 1469 other posts in this thread but who has the time to read all them? If I could edit the OP I would put in a paragraph to the effect that recent practice suggests lower amounts of salt.

I'll just mention that a pet theory of mine is that the taste buds respond in the same way as the eye and the ear i.e. logarithmically and that halving the amount of salts will not, therefore, make a dramatic difference in taste buy it will make a discernable difference and, for most people, in the direction of improvement.

Yes, the object is to keep the calcium level constant when adding sulfate so that half of it would come from CaCl2 and half from CaSO4.
 
Ajdelange I'm still confused. I get the point you're making about less . But the original post says 1 teaspoon per 5 gallons. Then in your response to my question you say 1/2 teaspoon per gallon. Which would end up as more than the OP at 2&1/2 teaspoons per 5 gallons.
 
Btw. Thanks for the continuous ongoing with this great read of a thread here!

I am starting with really soft bottled water and planning on doing an IPA ish pale ale or strong ale, or however you would call it. Would 80ppm calcium, 6ppm magnesium, 180 ppm sulfate, 18ppm chloride, 11ppm sodium and about 61ppm bicarbonate sound ok?
 
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If, as the Primer intends, you are starting with RO water do not add any bicarbonate. It will do you no good and pull mash pH up when you actually want to pull it down. If, OTOH, you are tailoring existing water than has alkalinity of 1 mEq/L (~ 61 ppm bicarbonate) then you are considered lucky and don't have to worry about the alkalinity (other than to remember to add an extra mEq acid for each liter of the mash water).
 
If, as the Primer intends, you are starting with RO water do not add any bicarbonate. It will do you no good and pull mash pH up when you actually want to pull it down. If, OTOH, you are tailoring existing water than has alkalinity of 1 mEq/L (~ 61 ppm bicarbonate) then you are considered lucky and don't have to worry about the alkalinity (other than to remember to add an extra mEq acid for each liter of the mash water).
I use the uk Waitrose bottled water that comes in a 4 pack of 2l bottles, so I have no influence on the bicarbonate.

Sounds like you would say the other values are ok like they are? The values show the final water after adding gypsum and calcium chloride to the water.
 
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