60qt. Ice Cube Mash Tun Build - $cheap and simple

[tnbrewer371]

What is the average efficiency people who use this rig have been getting with a cpvc manifold? I'm building one for my first ag batch and would like to know a ballpark of what I can plan for as far as efficiency goes? I plan on doing the hybrid batch sparge technique as described in the wiki, so I guess really ill be fly sparging?

 

[aledawg]

Hey Tennessee!

I started with this setup and was terribly disappointed at first, with 50% efficiency. Granted, it was my first batch, but I thought I'd read enough about it to really get it right the first time.

Then came batch 2, 3, and 4, and I managed about 60-65%, and I was still very unhappy.

Thanks to some very good advice in this thread, I made some changes:
* I preheated the cooler very well before stirring in my grains
* I kept a blanket on top of the lid of the cooler

The temperature in my mash now stayed stable, losing only 2-3 degrees over 1-1.5 hours of mashing.

After this I am now consistently getting 75% or better in my last 10 batches. The luxury problem is of course either a richer beer or more wort than I had counted on.

Lesson learned:
* This cooler needs some serious warm-up to make sure the insulation in the walls and everywhere else reaches a stable temp
* The lid lets off a fair amount of heat, so keep a cover on it

Other than that:
* No stuck mashes, ever
* Very little sweet left in the cooler, in fact I often have to leave some behind (the equivalent of a third running, I suppose), because my boil kettle fills up

-e

 

[rico567]

When I did my cooler conversion (the 10 gal. Rubbermaid "Big Orange" cooler), I found that even using 3 gal of preheat water, I was still losing too much mash temperature, even with a thick moving pad used as a blanket over the top. I then drilled some holes in the underside of the lid and injected it with that "great stuff" insulation in a spray can. I now lose @ 1 degree in an hour's mash. And I always be sure that the mash is thoroughly stirred, and never have any trouble hitting my SG numbers, which is all I really care about.

 

[tnbrewer371]

I plan on preheating the cooler with close to boiling water and doughing in whe

n my water cools to my strike temp I also plan on filling the lid with great stuff and covering the mlt with a subzero sleepiong bag for the entire mash. Is 75 poercent to optimistic for my first ag batch?

 

[Erik53]

If it is your first ag batch, I would estimate a lower efficiency just to give you room for mistakes. I think that 75% is very possible once you have some experience under your belt with AG, but its easy to make a mistake when you are trying a new process. I only got 55% efficiency on my first AG batch because i didn't realize that the mash-out/sparge should take 30+min.

I have been getting 75% efficiency consistently using the following process:
1) Preheat MT with water 10F warmer than strike temp and allowing the cooler to pre-heat for 10 min or so.
2) Mash in and mash for 75 min or so. I usually lose 3F on smaller batches, 1F on larger batches (15+ lbs grain).
3) Stir the mash and take first runnings after vorlaufing a couple gallons
4) Add remaining water at mash out temps. Stir up and let sit for 20-30 minutes. (start the boil add FWH)
5) Drain second runnings into BK after vorlaufing a couple gallons

 

[OhioClone]

can i ask where you bought these on clearance?

I saw this cooler today @ Lowes in Columbus, OH for $29 (I got mine there a couple of months ago), and at the local SAM's Club for $29 also.....pretty decent deal for a big mash-tun.

I am going to mash 37lbs in mine tomorrow....

 

[Flomaster]

thinking of converting my blue cube into a mash tun. what size nipple do I need for the bulkhead? would a 1/2" X 2" nipple work?

I'm at work and about to place an order for SS parts through a rep and would like to know today. worst case I can take mine apart and measure and order tomorrow.

oh I'll be using a SS nipple , SS ball valve , SS braided line or solder a copper one up.

I found a youtube video that says 1/2" x 1-1/2" nipple so I'll order that one.


-=Jason=-

 

[aledawg]

thinking of converting my blue cube into a mash tun. what size nipple do I need for the bulkhead? would a 1/2" X 2" nipple work?

I'm at work and about to place an order for SS parts through a rep and would like to know today. worst case I can take mine apart and measure and order tomorrow.

oh I'll be using a SS nipple , SS ball valve , SS braided line or solder a copper one up.

I found a youtube video that says 1/2" x 1-1/2" nipple so I'll order that one.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ftY_HZAFJFc

-=Jason=-

I used a 1/2" x 2" nipple, and it worked ok. On the inside I used a 1/2"-to-"flat" CPVC fitting and then a 90degree CPVC elbow to connect to the manifold on the bottom.


-e

 

[drumming102]

Pictures of my manifold I just put in my new cooler. All in all I have about $40 in it.

the center T is not soldered to be able to hook it up easier

 

[Flomaster]

I've been using this cooler for the last 4 years and I get 85% efficiency. Used 1/2" copper with a tee, 90 degree elbow, and threaded connector. Here are a couple of pics:

What length ss tubing are you using?

-= Jason =-

 

[Flomaster]

Bump bump

So I have started my build. I am / was using 1/2" fittings. It turns out I don't like using a 1/2" tee it loses suction too soon I breaks my siphon.

so here is my plan: 1/2"x1/4" bushing inside my 90° elbow 1/4"nipple to a 1/4" tee. I will hook up my SS mesh sleeving to 1/4x3/8 hex nipples.

Anyone see a problem here?


-= Jason =-

 

[drumming102]

Bump bump

So I have started my build. I am / was using 1/2" fittings. It turns out I don't like using a 1/2" tee it loses suction too soon I breaks my siphon.

so here is my plan: 1/2"x1/4" bushing inside my 90° elbow 1/4"nipple to a 1/4" tee. I will hook up my SS mesh sleeving to 1/4x3/8 hex nipples.

Anyone see a problem here?


-= Jason =-

Sounds good to me

 

[Flomaster]

Cool I'll order the fittings today.
The reason I like the 1/4" tee is it will sit lower and pick up more liquid than the 1/2" tee.

-= Jason =-

 

[Flomaster]

My 1/4" parts arrived today. I hope I ordered long enough nipples. To reach the bottom of the cooler.
I ordered a 2" and 2.5" nipple I should have gotten a 3" nipple as well.

from the bottom of the bushing to the bottom of the tee its just over 3"

-= Jason =-

 

[payton34]

i made the same one. i did have trouble with the manifold coming apart when stirring. i drilled all the conections and screwed them together. tried gluing it but the glue did not hold but i can take it apart to clean this way

 

[Seanwallner]

Just finished my manifold also. Made it out of cpvc and used a coleman 52qt extreme series rectangle cooler. heavily insulated for up to 5 days and has a good bottom for manifold to lay on. 35 for the cooler and 20 bucks for the manifold. Cant wait to try it out. Has anyone seen a sparge manifold on a rectangular cooler lid ans are there specs or pics, Cheers SW

 

[Flomaster]

i changed it up a bit

1/2" CVPC

-=Jason=-

 

[Accidic]

I needed something cheap to replace my old mash tun and was given one of these coolers. I picked up a PEX ended brass boiler valve (not optimum mind you but only $5.99, marked food safe, and comes with a giant locknut. A foot of silicone tubing for connections and a splice to make it through my "manifold"." And finally an nsf certified SS hot pan like a restaurant would use that I picked up at a yard sale for $3 (the kind you get at sams club 2 for $15).


Only advice I can offer... Use 32 teeth/inch hacksaw blade (maybe more) even if you have to buy it, don't make overly long cuts as it reduces the weight it can handle without bending enough to let your grain through, and avoid cobalt coated bits allegedly made for ss type stuff unless you have a press (titanium is just over half the price, you get 2 for that (5/64), and each will do 50-100 holes as opposed to the 5 total I got from the cobalt @$&#). Make sure you make small hacksaw cuts on the lip and you can get all but about a 1/2qt or less out. Also you have to either bend or cut side's lip off to make out fit a 60qt ice cube. And a bolt our two on each side makes spacing a breeze.

 

[Flomaster]

@accidic is that contraption on your lid that you are using to fly sparge?

-=Jason=-

 

[Accidic]

Nah, thats my manifold/false bottom. I consistently get mid 80s batch with it and have yet to be able to get it stuck (knock on wood) even with 28lbs of grain. I may make a fly sparge setup for it but for now seems like too much effort for too little gain.

 

[Sinnick]

anyone see any issues with using a spiral copper manifold with slits?
-Nick

 

[brandonbart]

Hi Everyone...Just joined the forum today. Great site! Im attempting to assemble one of these. Manifold was a piece of cake, but having issues for some reason. Did anyone else have difficulty getting it put together snugly against the bulkhead? Using the same setup from the very beginning of the thread.

 

[dunnright00]

I'm looking to make one of these, WalFart has the coolers for like $30.

 

[dunnright00]

2 questions:

Anyone ever use these with small batches (2-3 gal)? Would I expect a lot of temp drop?

and, What's the consensus on the the hacksaw vs small drill on the pvc manifold?
Which do you prefer?

 

[aledawg]

2 questions:

Anyone ever use these with small batches (2-3 gal)? Would I expect a lot of temp drop?

and, What's the consensus on the the hacksaw vs small drill on the pvc manifold?
Which do you prefer?

I have a pretty consistent temp drop of 1-3 degrees, whether I do a small or big batch.

I used the hacksaw and have no complaints on the results - never a stuck mash!

 

[OhioClone]

I have a pretty consistent temp drop of 1-3 degrees, whether I do a small or big batch.

I used the hacksaw and have no complaints on the results - never a stuck mash!

I used a Dremel cutting disk to make the slots, but same idea, and agree never close to a stuck mash.

As for temp, I have not done that small of a batch in mine, but if I use less than 30# of grain I will usually put a loose layer of aluminum foil over the grain bed, and this has helped retain the temp well. If it is particularily cold out, I will also pre-heat the cooler before mashing in.

 

[Misplaced_Canuck]

2 questions:

Anyone ever use these with small batches (2-3 gal)? Would I expect a lot of temp drop?

and, What's the consensus on the the hacksaw vs small drill on the pvc manifold?
Which do you prefer?

I've never noticed a temp drop, but then again I'm in S.C., not in Vermont in the middle of the winter

I tried both the holes and the slots. I drilled a number of holes, and I could NOT draw down lower than the exit hole. With the slots, I could.

I have to mention that I was using only gravity, and no hose attached to the ball valve. Having a hose attached would create a liquid column and would probably help it drain out, but I didn't take the chance.

MC

 

[Accidic]

2 questions:

Anyone ever use these with small batches (2-3 gal)? Would I expect a lot of temp drop?

and, What's the consensus on the the hacksaw vs small drill on the pvc manifold?
Which do you prefer?

I've done three ~3g batches in mine. It drops faster but a 60m is no prob. For whatever it's worth I only do the one sparge after the initial tho. I got tannins with more than one the first time I did it.

 

[gregboyd3rd]

I've done extract recipes for the last 5 years. After doing my research on all-grain I am ready to jump in but didn't have a mash tun. I had a 60 qt cube cooler laying around but wasn't sure if it would work until I found this thread. WOW am I amazed on how well it holds the heat, it doesn't leak at all, and almost all of the water siphoned out for my initial test (cpvc 1/2" manifold with 3/32 drilled holes). Thanks!!!

I would also like to pre-thank all the recommendations on how to get the correct temperature before mixing in the grains since this has plagued a few people in this thread. I am very excited to get my feet wet and try my first all-grain brew.

Any recommendations on a good yet easy recipe to start with??? FYI - I usually do 5 gallon batches but now have a 15 gallon keg to boil in and can't wait to do 10 gallon batches.

 

[tnsen]

Greetings hop heads...great site...I also want to jump inn on AG ...2 stupid questions...1 why are the holes drilled on the bottom of the manifold? and not all around?....2 why not drill a bunch of holes right on the elbow right where tubing exits the cooler, that way, right at the end of the drain you can tip the cooler tward the drain and get all the precious wort?..also 3rd stupid question , what do you all mean by 80 70 % "efficiency"..is this the percentage of water that comes out as to the amount put inn??....and yes I am ROOKIE......thankx.....Tom

 

[Wreck99]

Great thread! After doing a few extract batches, I'd like to try my hand at AG. I've been doing alot of reading up on the process here on HBT and you guys are full of excellent information. I think I have a good enough idea on how to make my mash tun now. Time to shop for a cooler. Thank you!

 

[tnsen]

Yes ...what wreck 99 said....I just got back from the local Sams club....they had the ice cube for 27 bucks....I am thinkin...later next week......

 

[Wreck99]

Same here. It's gonna be the bigger kettle that gets me...they aren't cheap. The one I have now is 5 gallons. Sounds like I need an 8.

 

[dipdop]

Greetings hop heads...great site...I also want to jump inn on AG ...2 stupid questions...1 why are the holes drilled on the bottom of the manifold? and not all around?....2 why not drill a bunch of holes right on the elbow right where tubing exits the cooler, that way, right at the end of the drain you can tip the cooler tward the drain and get all the precious wort?..also 3rd stupid question , what do you all mean by 80 70 % "efficiency"..is this the percentage of water that comes out as to the amount put inn??....and yes I am ROOKIE......thankx.....Tom

Also a beginner here but about to build this manifold thing for my first all grain batch.

The answer to question 2 is that if you did that you would not get suction, the middle section that bends up and has no holes will create a siphon (when paired with a long enough tube on the outside) sucking the wort out of the very bottom hopefully leaving none behind (probably not that perfect in practice). The answer to question 1 relates to this also, if the holes are on the bottom, they suck liquid from the lowest possible point.

That said, I have toyed with the idea of making a single T shaped manifold and mounting it as close to the drain hole as possible. That way, as the liquid level gets close to the drain hole you could tilt it up and get more of the wort that way.. I can see some problems with that but may try it if I have extra PVC on a later batch.

As far as efficiency goes, that is better explained in other threads I'm sure but my understanding is that there is a certain amount of sugar that is theoretically extractable from a given kind of grain(under perfect laboratory conditions or possibly in commercial breweries). As homebrewers we tend to not get to 100%. I'm not sure how it is measured but it's something I need to read up on, probably you calculate what your OG should be based on the amount of grains, and how close you get to that determines your efficiency.

 

[tnsen]

Thankx dripdrop...as a side not ..Igloo has a new cooler that is also 60qt..and square like the cube..it is not called cube...I cant remember the name..(island breeze maybe?)...but anyway..the drain is also at 45 degrees...but it is lower than the bottom....I think it would be a better choice (39bucks)....but plenty of people on here are not having any problems with the cube...so ill ponder it a bit b4 I pull the trigger....thankx....Tom

 

[Wreck99]

So I just put something together and did a water test run. All the water drained minus about 4 cups of water. I used a SS braid setup, but Im wondering would a manifold get more out? You can see the left behind water in the pic. I used CPVC for the connections, a SS 3/4 braid from washer hookup and SS clamp on one end, wire tie on the other.

I'm looking to take the plunge tomorrow night and brew my first AG

 

[chemman14]

I just saw one of these at my local costco for $42. Seems like an awesome deal with the 62 qt capacity and insulated lid. Has anyone used a bazooka screen on this? I would think i would need to angle it to the side in order to fit it in there.

 

[chemman14]

Heres a couple of shots of the one at costco. As you can see the drain is actually at the lowest part of the cooler.

I currently have a 10 gallon round cooler but i reach capacity on my bigger beers and would like the flexibility this tun provides. Good thing Costco has an amazing return policy

 

[Misplaced_Canuck]

So I just put something together and did a water test run. All the water drained minus about 4 cups of water. I used a SS braid setup, but Im wondering would a manifold get more out? You can see the left behind water in the pic. I used CPVC for the connections, a SS 3/4 braid from washer hookup and SS clamp on one end, wire tie on the other.

I'm looking to take the plunge tomorrow night and brew my first AG

I get down to under 1 cup left behind (when using water - not a mash) using a CPVC manifold. Are you using a hose with enough head (elevation) on the outside? This is mandatory to get to the bottom of the cooler due to the riser.

MC

 

[Accidic]

I get down to under 1 cup left behind (when using water - not a mash) using a CPVC manifold. Are you using a hose with enough head (elevation) on the outside? This is mandatory to get to the bottom of the cooler due to the riser.

MC

(erasing my original reply/question to be more succinct)

Not really following you on the hose elevation on the outside of the cooler. I'm about to switch mani's to CPVC but previously the mani I linked above pulled out all but a cup or two at the absolute most with no issue and I had the hose going straight down from the outside connection into a pot. Could you elaborate a bit on what you mean by getting enough elevation on the outside? Thanks.