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@BDJohns

Give it up bro...people are presenting you with facts, common sense, and the statistical fact that there is not even a minority of cases of these infections in beer...your hijacking this thread.

I want to pull the trigger in the next two weeks on a kettle, any good stout reviews out there? Thanks for the info so far
 
Megapots (Priced from Northern Brewer)

10 Gallon MegaPot - MegaPots - Brew Kettles - Equipment - Brewing : Northern Brewer

10G – Plain Stock Pot - $132.99 13H x 17W

10G - (weldless w/ Ball Valve and Thermometer) - $219.99 13H x 17W

Pro’s – heavy duty, DIY option available

Con’s – weldless (a con to me), shaped like a can of tuna instead of can of soup – doesn’t fit my rig

Mega Pot offers an 8 gallon (just like B3), but I eliminate it for reasons I listed above. Basically, I find it undersized. The plain 10G Mega Pot is a great option for someone who can weld, or is brave enough to drill a hole in their new $130 kettles. I am neither of those things. The weld less option with thermometer puts you in the normal price range, but as odd as this seems, I really wanted welded fittings. Also, the ratio of height to width was a far cry from what I am used to, so I was a little scared the dramatically increased surface area would screw with my boil off and dead space. Also, the 17” width of these kettles didn’t really work with my existing rig. For someone else, the weld less feature and low height may be the two biggest selling points, but for me, they were the deal breakers. On the flip side, for someone who can weld, the stock pot option is a very inexpensive way to get the features of the 10G Polar Ware kettle I will be talking about later but with a kettle shaped more squat than tall.

Megapots are Update International SPS line pots. For example: http://www.waresdirect.com/products/Restaurant-Supply/Update-International-/60-Qt168824. To be fair: you should add this pot to your review because then the brewer can decide on weldless or welded, and placement of fittings. And: I got three 80qt pots and had fittings welded on way cheaper than I could have bought three megapots for that I would have had to have more welding work done anyway.
 
@BDJohns

Give it up bro...people are presenting you with facts, common sense, and the statistical fact that there is not even a minority of cases of these infections in beer...your hijacking this thread.

I want to pull the trigger in the next two weeks on a kettle, any good stout reviews out there? Thanks for the info so far

Ok, so I apologize for the hijacking. But, like I said, I work in cheese. Still a fermentation process, only with milk and bacterial fermentation as opposed to wort and yeast. When you work with a process that deals with millions of pounds of ingredients daily, the rules are tougher. At work, we have to design for systems that make it as difficult as possible to screw things up.

I still stand by the following points:

1) Wort is not a high-acid product, therefore any time the product is between 45F and 145F, you provide an environment conducive to growth of pathogens. Doesn't matter if you're under aerobic or anaerobic conditions. There are pathogens that can grow in one, the other, or both.
2) Anything with threads and/or other crevices needs to be removed and manually cleaned to ensure that it is free of residues that can harbor growth of pathogens.

If you're brewing just for yourself, the risk is probably acceptable. Like I said, the rules are different in a world where you make and sell millions of pounds of stuff.

Megapots are Update International SPS line pots. For example: http://www.waresdirect.com/products/Restaurant-Supply/Update-International-/60-Qt168824. To be fair: you should add this pot to your review because then the brewer can decide on weldless or welded, and placement of fittings. And: I got three 80qt pots and had fittings welded on way cheaper than I could have bought three megapots for that I would have had to have more welding work done anyway.

Getting back on topic - if I weren't taking the DIY approach, I would get Stout's tanks. I've looked at Blichman stuff over at Northern Brewer, and I can't justify paying more money for a 15-gallon mash tun with false bottom ($461 at NB's price), versus $449 for Stout's 15-gallon which comes with all-welded tri-clamp fittings and already has an additional top fitting for RIMS/HERMS recirculation return. Only thing Stout's lack at that price point is the sight glass.

My HLT and BK are the same pot jcaudill references above (10 gal HLT, 15 gal BK), with sanitary fittings silver-soldered on and the joints buffed smooth. Nice and heavy-duty. I'm going electric, so the triple-ply bottom is overkill, but it's a good pot.

Even if you are going to go with weldless fittings, you could still do a DIY with the Update pot for a far better price than Blichmann (using an MLT as the example):

$120 for the pot (if you've got Amazon Prime, you can get an equivalent one from them for a slightly better price after you figure shipping/tax)
$40 for SS weldless bulkhead with ball valve and hose barb
$36 for 2 more weldless bulkheads (RIMS/HERMS return, thermometer)
$30 for a weldless sight glass kit from Bobby_M
$110 for NB's false bottom (might be able to do cheaper elsewhere)
$30 for a 1/2 NPT thermometer

That's $366, plus a drill bit if you don't have the right one.
 
Excellent thread!

The discussion on sanitation is great, but maybe we should continue it elsewhere so that the quality of this review isn't affected.
 
I'll add 1/2 BBL Kegs to the list:

PROS:
-Incredibly durable
-Built in handles
-Height to width ratio optimal for low evaporation rates
-Bottom can be cut out and the top can be used as a triclover center drain
-Much easier to weld due to thicker wall
-May be more aesthetically pleasing to some, especially with mirror polish
-Domed bottom can be used to collect trub

CONS:
-Can be difficult to find
-Legal issues with keeping kegs for deposit
-Heavy
-Hard to drill
-May not be aesthetically pleasing to some
 
Thanks, OP. This discussion is helping me decide on which direction I should go for a 20-25 gallon kettle for BIAB. I also appreciate the direct links to products discussed that are disbersed throughout this thread.

Heck, at the price of the Update International, Concord and Bayou Classic pots, I might just go for a 3-vessel system.
 
OK, noob question. What are everyone's thoughts on this 2-weld kettle:

http://www.homebrewing.org/2-WELD-9-Gallon-Stainless-Steel-Brew-Pot-_p_1684.html

from homebrewing.org/adventures in homebrewing?

Price is nice, will not compare with one of the super high-end pots, but how is this for the casual brewer?

Also, can I get the benefits of sandwiched aluminum by placing an aluminum plate under the SS kettle?

Thanks
 
Clad bottoms are really not useful in brewing, especially AG as there is no extract to scorch at bottom. Just take longer to heat up.

That pot is fine
 
I have 3 Blichmann 10 gallon kettles and I have nothing but good things to say about them. The mash tun false bottom works really well. I've brewed 40 all-grain batches and have never had a stuck sparge. The sight glasses are really easy to clean, the weldless fittings are great. Everything about these kettles is quality.

When it came time to move up to a 10 gallon setup, I looked at Polarware and Bayou. It seemed like I could save a few dollars and go with something else. In fact, I was convinced that I was going to buy the Bayou kettles because they were so much cheaper. But every time I brewed with my Blichmanns I would change my mind.

I ended up buying Blichmann again. I now have a 15 gallon mash tun and boil kettle.

The bottom line is it's hard for me to find fault in these kettles.
 
Like quoted below, your boil off should not increase because of the volume of liquid increases. So the rate should be equivalent for both batch sizes regardless. The only thing that would affect the rate in the same pot would be time of boil, how vigorous the boil and environmental factors (i.e humidity). My two cents.

I haven't found that to be the case, I have both a 10 gallon kettle and a 15.5 gallon keggle. For your statement to be true, you have to assume that the boiloff rate per hour would be twice at much for 10 gallons as it would be for 5. That hasn't been my experience. While a 10 gallon batch may boil off more hour than a 5 gallon batch, it's not significantly more.

Good review, btw.
 
Im looking into upgrading from my 5 gallon pot to an 8. I brew on my stove top (electric) I mostly brew 5 gallon batches (18.5L) and I probably wont brew more then that for now.

Should I go with an 8 gallon or a 10?
 
Im looking into upgrading from my 5 gallon pot to an 8. I brew on my stove top (electric) I mostly brew 5 gallon batches (18.5L) and I probably wont brew more then that for now.

Should I go with an 8 gallon or a 10?

As big as you can afford. Having extra room in a kettle is never a bad thing.
 
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