2nd batch in a row no fermentation after 48 hrs

[BaronsBrew]

Let the first batch, which was a ruby red ale sit for a good 5/6 days before tossing it. I tried to reactivate the yeast with some more sugar, got some bubbles in the bucket nothing out of the airlock. I sterilized everything to an OCD level. This batch is a light ale, no bubbles out of airlock. The sanitizer in the air lock has shifted some but nothing I haven't seen any blurbs of any kind. I heated the malt mixed it in as the instructions said, then boiled it. Added some brew sugar (1Kg) and dissolved it into the malt. Instructions said to pitch the yeast between 65 & 70 deg. Did it at 70. Used a different airlock for the second batch. Room temp holds between 70 & 80 deg. Followed all directions and have read a bunch of brew info on the net. Don't know where I'm going wrong.

 

[flars]

I am guessing you are using a bucket for a fermentor. Often the seals on buckets are not tight. The CO2 will escape around the lid rather than through the airlock. Fermentation can go to completion without any bubbles through the airlock.

If that is not the case did you take hydrometer readings? Hydrometer readings of specific gravity are the only way to tell how fermentation is progressing or not progressing. 48 hours is not a long time for some fermentations to begin. Lag time is mainly dependent on the SG of the wort and the amount of yeast pitched. After 72 hours may be the time to worry a little bit.

Room temperature is way to high for a fermentor. Yeast produces heat as it works. Wort temperature can rise 10° over ambient. Most ale yeasts like the low to mid 60°s.

 

[duboman]

Air locks and bubbles don't mean anything other than gas escaping. If the lid on your bucket doesn't seal gas escapes elsewhere.

You dumped the beer???

Did you even bother looking for a krausen ring, take a hydrometer reading? What a waste....

 

[nebulous]

how well did you oxygenate? did you take gravity readings? just because the airlock isn't bubbling doesn't mean that fermentation isn't going on.
also what did it smell like when you tossed it? did it smell like beer/yeast?

 

[JF_HBrews]

Ditto - rely on your gravity readings. It's doubtful your yeast was 'bad'. You mention that you pitched your yeast at 70 deg. so you didn't kill it by boiling it. If you really did get bad yeast and there is no change in your gravity readings then you could always pitch a second batch (powder, vial, smack pack) of yeast before giving up on your brew.

 

[kh54s10]

If you don't have a hydrometer, get one. The only way to be sure that you have fermentation or not is by gravity readings.

I would say that if you went by airlock only you have dumped a perfectly good beer and are worrying unnecessarily on this one.

 

[BaronsBrew]

I got a hydrometer but it came in after the batch was made. The first batch smelled good, there was a thick krausen ring but it tasted off. It didn't taste like any ruby red I've ever had. The kit was old/expired but that could have been why it tasted funky. This second batch was a new kit but it doesn't look like the k-ring is forming as quickly as the first batch. A lot of stuff I've read says that the airlock should be bubbling quite a lot.

 

[BaronsBrew]

I oxygenated the crap out of it. I shook that bucket like it owed me a dollar, when it was wort

 

[kh54s10]

The airlock should bubble but may not for different reasons. The gas will escape the fermenter from the area of least resistance. If you are using a bucket the seal you are getting is probably not tight. This is not really a concern. As long as the lid covers the beer nothing nasty will get in.

Beer before it is carbonated will not taste like the final product. You gave up too early. Also at 5 days it probably was not even finished fermenting!

 

[SteveHeff]

Beer, often times, does not taste like "beer" until weeks or months after it's finished fermenting. Don't rush a beer just because you want it to do something that it hasn't had time to do.

Make sure to grab a hydrometer reading when the wort is cooled. This number will be the basis of how well your yeast worked. Give it 2 weeks. Some times there are absolutely no signs of fermentation other than gravity readings. I think most of the posters around here have had that happen from time to time. The airlock doesn't even have to budge. It happens.

Be patient. That's the best way to produce a good beer. Practice good technique as well. You'll thank yourself for the discipline later.

 

[eltorrente]

Sounds like you threw away perfectly good beer and never gave it a chance..

 

[peterj]

.

 

[NickTheGreat]

Sad thread is sad. You just need to wait. Yeast is patient and we need to be too

 

[beergolf]

Sounds like you threw away perfectly good beer and never gave it a chance..

The hardest thing to learn about brewing is patience. Sounds like pitched a good batch before you knew if it really did have any problems.

Go through the whole process before making a decision about a brew. Give it plenty of time to ferment and clear, bottle and give it at least three weeks to condition and carb up, and then taste it. Any time before the whole process is done the brew may just not taste right.

BTW airlock bubbling means nothing... Is this one fermenting?

 

[BaronsBrew]

The hardest thing to learn about brewing is patience. Sounds like pitched a good batch before you knew if it really did have any problems. Go through the whole process before making a decision about a brew. Give it plenty of time to ferment and clear, bottle and give it at least three weeks to condition and carb up, and then taste it. Any time before the whole process is done the brew may just not taste right. BTW airlock bubbling means nothing... Is this one fermenting? Video Link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4jzT_KTTZ0Q&feature=youtube_gdata_player

I was going off the advice of a coworker that claimed to have years of experience. Come to find out he always uses the little cylindrical looking ones not the s shaped ones I have. Thanks for your help, and the video link. Really appreciate it!! The Krausen ring is becoming more visible through the side of the container. I haven't cracked the lid yet, when I do I'll try to post a pic.

 

[BaronsBrew]

Here are the pics. It looks like some fermentation took place. Should I try to reactivate it by adding more sugar?

 

[duboman]

Looks like it fermented fine and is clearing, take a gravity reading and see where it's at.

 

[Transamguy77]

Here are the pics. It looks like some fermentation took place. Should I try to reactivate it by adding more sugar?

The actual fermenting process is not very long, depending on gravity, yeast type and temperature it can be as fast as 24 hours or take 3 or 4 days. I would let it sit for 2 or 3 weeks then take a few gravity readings over a few days and if the gravity is close to what it should be (a few points off is ok) then bottle.

And no don't add any sugar! If the fermenting process is done its done, just let it ride now.

 

[peterj]

Also, adding sugar won't "reactivate" anything. Wort has plenty of sugar in it already, and if it hasn't eaten that then there's no need to add more.

 

[flars]

Recipes sometimes indicate what final gravity will be. Ignore that part of the recipe. There are to many variables in brewing to predict final gravity. You have reached final gravity when your hydrometer readings are the same over a period of three to four days.

 

[BaronsBrew]

Took a gravity reading(1.10). The hydrometer case said not to bottle unless the reading was under 1.06, or the bottles would explode. Is this legit?I tasted it after taking the reading it tasted a little watered down, but I can't tell if that's just because it wasn't carbonated. Is that normal?

 

[flars]

When you have 2 to 3 gravity readings which are the same over the course of three to four days fermentation is complete. The beer can then be bottled at your convenience.
Bottle conditioning and carbonation will change the flavor of your beer. How the hydrometer sample tasted is normal.

 

[BaronsBrew]

I've tasted it after about a week of conditioning tasted flat and watered down still. Any tips besides let it sit for another week?

 

[RM-MN]

I've tasted it after about a week of conditioning tasted flat and watered down still. Any tips besides let it sit for another week?

Yep. Here's a tip.

Let it sit in the bottles at 70 to 75 degrees for another 2 to 4 weeks and then sample it again. You're trying to rush the yeast and they are resisting. :rockin:

 

[BigFloyd]

To paraphrase a wise lady HBT moderator- Your beer is going to be done when it's done. It ain't gonna get more done by you messing with it.

1) If you're going to use kits, get good quality kits with 11g packets of quality yeast (Danstar or Fermentis)

2) Throw away the kit instructions and apply what you can learn here - https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f39/beginner-extract-brewing-howto-99139/

3) After you pitch yeast and seal up the bucket, leave the lid on the bucket for at least 10 days. Every time you pop it open, you are disturbing the protective CO2 layer atop the beer. If you want to check for krausen, hold a flashlight to the side of the bucket. Airlocks are a nice visual confirmation of activity, but that are not reliable since the CO2 can sneak out of any leak in the lid seal easier than pushing that airlock liquid out of the way.

4) Pay attention to temperatures. Chill the wort into the 60's before pitching. Ferment in the mid-60's (beer temp, not air) for most ales.

5) Patience. Rushed beer is usually bad beer. Bottle carbing/conditioning takes 3 weeks at 70-75*F, longer at cooler temps. When you pop one at a week, you're just wasting beer.

 

[BaronsBrew]

To paraphrase a wise lady HBT moderator- Your beer is going to be done when it's done. It ain't gonna get more done by you messing with it. 1) If you're going to use kits, get good quality kits with 11g packets of quality yeast (Danstar or Fermentis) 2) Throw away the kit instructions and apply what you can learn here - https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f39/beginner-extract-brewing-howto-99139/ 3) After you pitch yeast and seal up the bucket, leave the lid on the bucket for at least 10 days. Every time you pop it open, you are disturbing the protective CO2 layer atop the beer. If you want to check for krausen, hold a flashlight to the side of the bucket. Airlocks are a nice visual confirmation of activity, but that are not reliable since the CO2 can sneak out of any leak in the lid seal easier than pushing that airlock liquid out of the way. 4) Pay attention to temperatures. Chill the wort into the 60's before pitching. Ferment in the mid-60's (beer temp, not air) for most ales. 5) Patience. Rushed beer is usually bad beer. Bottle carbing/conditioning takes 3 weeks at 70-75*F, longer at cooler temps. When you pop one at a week, you're just wasting beer.

Bottled the batch, let it sit for 3 weeks conditioning and it tastes like freedom!!! Thanks for the advice, patience is definitely a virtue.

 

[BigFloyd]

Bottled the batch, let it sit for 3 weeks conditioning and it tastes like freedom!!! Thanks for the advice, patience is definitely a virtue.

You're quite welcome.

You learned some of the more important lessons of brewing in just a couple of batches. That's pretty good.