240V Heat Stick Idea

[gunner65]

Has anyone done a 240V 5500W heat stick that is on a PID/SSR control that can be moved from HLT to BK?

 

[willynilly]

Have not seen it, but I dont see why not. Have the thermocouple in the HLT and then run it in manual mode in the BK

 

[gunner65]

What I was thinking was having the TC installed on the down tube of the heat stick. That would make the entire system portable. Also be alot easier to clean everything and use an IC with the BK.

 

[Bobby_M]

You could also make a slick mount to have the thermocouple attached to the heatstick.... doh, too slow.

The advantage would be having a current temp readout which you'd lose running it in the HLT.

 

[willynilly]

You can do it! I want to see this built. Very nice

 

[gunner65]

You could also make a slick mount to have the thermocouple attached to the heatstick.... doh, too slow.

The advantage would be having a current temp readout which you'd lose running it in the HLT.

Why would I lose the current temp readout? If the TC is connected and the PID is set wont it display current temp? I think my PID always displays temp.

 

[Ohio-Ed]

I thought about this awhile back. I posted a message and got back some response that had me re-thinking the idea... One of the biggies, is actually submerging the heating element connections, you are gonna have to find a real good way to prevent leaks and condensation from being an issue.

With it being portable, you also have to take extra care to ensure the element doesn't come in contact with anything that would be sensitive to the extreme heat, such as the side of your cooler.

In the end, I never persued it. I'd love to see what you come up with.

I thought it would really be cool to be able to stick it in another brewers pot when you weren't using it.

 

[klyph]

I thought it would really be cool to be able to stick it in another brewers pot when you weren't using it.

I don't know if I'd be comfortable letting another man stick his heat stick in my brew pot...

 

[gunner65]

Ed

As with any electric heating system in water tanks a GFCI is a must. If there were a water leak or condensation the GFCI would trip and in the mA range. I do intend to fully "pot" the element connection lugs in appropriate compound. Moving the element from vessel to vessel would require the same common sense precautions as any heatstick would. My HLT will be a keggle as is my brew kettle now so melting a cooler wont be an issue. I would think that if you wanted to use a plastic cooler the only precaution is not making contact with the sides and bottom. If you constructed the heatstick with the hook at the top to hang over the side then have the element horizontally mounted there should be no problem with contact and melting. I have acquired from work all neccessary equipment to do this. We have a large number of environmental chambers and have to scrap/repair them from time to time and we have plenty of PIDs and SSRs on hand as well as elements. The only cost to me would be plumbing parts and a project box to mount this equipment.

and by the way putting your element in another mans vessel just aint right!

 

[Ohio-Ed]

I don't know if I'd be comfortable letting another man stick his heat stick in my brew pot...

Oh com'on... Just relax, I promise there won't be any infections, you know everything that happens pre-boil is cool

 

[Ohio-Ed]

Gunner -
In my version (only in my mind), I was thinking of mounting the element horizontally near the bottom of a "roll gage" that would prevent the element from contacting the sides or bottom and act as the conduit. At the same level having a temp probe, and a float switch just above to prevent dry firing.

And by the way... who said I brew with men

 

[gunner65]

And by the way... who said I brew with men

You are from Ohio I just assumed

 

[cyberbackpacker]

My thought on a 5500w element is that unless your are using a high density or ultra high density element, your vessels are going to need to be really wide (if using a 90 degree elbow heatstick) or really narrow (if using a straight heat stick) in order to insure that the element is immersed to prevent dry firing.

 

[Budzu]

Airbalancer has done this, surprised he didn't check in. I love his stuff and modeled much of my system after him. From http://home.comcast.net/~thomas23/brewery.htm
This is his:

 

[gunner65]

That is one of the sweetest setups I have ever seen.

 

[airbalancer]

Ok im checkin in, I did it

It my favorite piece of DIY

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/ultimate-heatstick-240-volt-116049/

 

[Ohio-Ed]

Ok im checkin in, I did it

It my favorite piece of DIY

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/ultimate-heatstick-240-volt-116049/

VERY NICE!

The only thing missing from the one in my mind, is an integrated temp probe, and that "could" be solved by installing it in the cap opposite the element.

Ed

 

[gunner65]

Excellent, though pricey too. Thanks

 

[BeerCanuck]

Airbalancers DIY heatstick is awesome.
If the heatstick had a built in temp probe and controller that would be tre awesome. Just curious on how much something like that would cost if there was enough interest to warrant manufacturing in bulk?

Cheers;
BeerCanuck

 

[1971hemicuda]

Oh this would totally be something worth manufacturing in bulk, IMO. I've been researching heat sticks now and, since I can't weld, I would probably rule this out. I know a bunch of brewers and none of us can really weld but have thought about something like this.

I currently use 2 heating elements in brewing. 1 in my HLT and 1 in an external heating well (think tankless water heater) but this is all for the mash. I now need something to boil with.

Let me know what kind of responses you get! Looking forward to following this thread

 

[magnj]

Gunner, how did this turn out for you?

 

[thelorax121]

I am in the process of making something like this (along the line of nostalgia's build)

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f170/heatstick-doom-start-wiring-qs-171288/index2.html#post2008184

My plan is to integrate a waterproof box with a two pole on/off switch for now, and next time I come across a cheap PID (or once I complete the rest of the HERMS build), I plan on changing that out with a PID/SSR setup.

 

[magnj]

I'm actually leaning towards constructing a second heat exchanger rather than a stick. Without welding I'm nervous about having electrical connections beneath the surface. Considering the price of the stainless parts is so cheap and the fact that I'll be using 2 pumps anyway I see no reason why it's any worse than a heatstick. Same flexibilty, can just swap the hose from the hlt to the bk. Thoughts?

 

[EarthBound]

Gunner, how did this turn out for you?

I'm sure that if he built anything, he would've posted it on here. He was probably just looking for info.