20A brew controller for future upgradability?

[FreshBrew]

Hello all, I brew mini BIAB (3-4 gal) using my 7 gal kettle and want to convert to electric. I've read most of anything I can find but need input. For now I am keeping my current BK to keep costs down and plan to use a 120V 2000W element on a PID brew controller that I intend to build. I want to build my controller with a future upgrade to an 11 gal BK with 240V 5500W element in mind. Can I use the 40A SSR from Auber in my 20A build for now? At some time when I choose to upgrade I then have the necessary SSR and just need to rewire etc. for the 240V right? I've searched but cannot find anyone building their 120V system with this in mind.

Thanks for you advice and input.

 

[thekraken]

Yes... Err, rather most probably. Just check specs that the voltage for the SSR accepts 120-240 volts too. Always check your components specs and build well within those limits.

I run my 11A heating element with a 50A SSR.

Also, you could just buy that 5500W heating element now and just wire it up with 120v. A 5500W/240V heating element powered at 120V is 1375W.

 

[BigFloppy]

In it's simplest form, the primary difference between a 110v and a 4-wire (L1, L2, N, G) 220v system is essentially just the addition of an extra hot wire (and a few extra volts floating around).

Leave all your control side running @ 110 (that's what I did anyways - no reason to make work for yourself rewiring PID controllers, led's etc to run 220 when they're already running fine on 110) L1 -> N = 110v, L1 -> L2 = 220v

To upgrade your element to 220, Swap the Neutral wire from the existing element power and replace it with the other hot wire from the 220. I would build the initial element power sockets using 220v/30A or larger initially rather than a 110 socket (It is just a socket and plug after all) - I used L16-30 for my element plugs and sockets. INBOUND POWER for me is a different animal though cause I'm capable of running all 50A and that is one hell of a plug!

IF you want to go overboard, you could double up on your SSR's and control both L1 and L2 hot wires from the same PID controller output rather than just one of them but there's really no need to

 

[FreshBrew]

Thanks guys, I'll follow up after I get my parts and get things together.

 

[wilserbrewer]

Also, you could just buy that 5500W heating element now and just wire it up with 120v. A 5500W/240V heating element powered at 120V is 1375W.

1375W is likely not enough IMO.
Even if it works, it will be painfully slow

 

[thekraken]

1375W is likely not enough IMO.
Even if it works, it will be painfully slow

Maybe. At 3-4 gallon batches, and if OP is using the element to supplement a stove top, I'd think 1375 would be fine to maintain mash or boil. I can heat 5 gallons of strike water with just a 1375 watt RIMS tube in about 40 minutes (if I remember correctly, my process has improved since I last did that)