2000W 10 Gallon Batch RIMS

[cod3ck]

I'm looking to build a new RIMS configuration but the wattage needs to be 2000 or less so I can simultaneously run a 4500W Element in my HLT on a 30A circuit.

This is what I've come up with:

• Heating Element (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0789L2J9Q/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20)

• Element Connector (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0762H8B1K/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20)

• Inlet Tee (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BHBWQVN/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20)

• RIMS Tube (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076F33XT3/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20)

• Thermometer and Outlet Connector (https://www.norcalbrewingsolutions.com/store/Tri-Clover-1.5-Inch-x-Half-Inch-NPT-Tee.html)

Questions -

1. Will the 1.5" tube be sufficient for preventing the wort from being scorched w/ a 2000W element?
2. Is a 15.5" heating element long enough (at this power level) to easily step mash and mash-out 10 gallons batches?
3. Is there a better way to go?!

 

[FunkedOut]

The smaller the diameter tube, the faster the wort moves through the tube and across the element.
The less time the same wort is in contact with the element, the less likely it is to scorch.

I have a 1650W element, and a 2qt/min pump.
Minimal scorching happens when stepping 40*F or more; not enough to affect flavor.
That buys me 1*F/min at a 5 gallon batch.
I’d guess you’re looking a about 2 minutes per 1*F with that set up.

If you want faster ramps, you can add more wattage.
If it scorches, you can increase the flow rate.

The other factor is watt density across the surface area of the element.
The lower the better.
I’m sitting at 0.08W/mm2 (52W/in2)

 

[cod3ck]

How long is your element? I remember reading somewhere that a longer element also helps..?

I’m also debating using this one instead:
https://www.ebay.com/p/Vulcan-B13-1...lts-30-Inches-Long-3-4-Dia-3-4-new/2208832680

This is the longest one I’ve found at the 1500-2000W range for 240v...

 

[FunkedOut]

It’s a foldback element. 230mm long that folds back 180mm; 8mm diameter loop.

Longer helps reduce scorching if diameter and wattage remain the same.
The watt density number takes all that into account.
It’s total watts divided by total surface area.
Take your link for example:

Diameter = 19mm
Length = 395mm
Watts = 2000W

Circumference (pi*diameter) = ~59.7mm
Surface area (circumference*length) = ~23,578mm2
Watt density (watts/surface area) = ~0.085W/mm2

Keep in mind, a higher flow rate will tolerate a higher watt density.

 

[cod3ck]

For flow rate, I don’t want to go much over 1 gpm, right? Otherwise I risk compacting the mash..?

 

[FunkedOut]

I’m still not clear there. (Pun intended)
I need to look into channeling more.

In my mind, I don’t see why you should exceed the lauter rate and expect all of the grains to get flushed.
If it’s too fast for lauter, it’s too fast for a homogenous mash.

I desire to recirculate full period and lauter without disturbing the grain bed at all.
If 1gpm is too fast for lautering because it will channel, wouldn’t that channeling be happening during the recirculating? Leaving those channels established for lautering even though you slow things down.

It’s definitely MLT and grist dependent.
I have to test my system with faster and faster lauters until I see efficiency fall off, then record my max flow rate.
I plan not to exceed that rate during recirculation.

FWIW, Ss Brew Tech has this to say about their mash tuns (which I’m using):

The Infusion Mash Tuns were originally designed to operate with a lautering/run-off velocity up to 1.5inches/minute, which is equal to about 1.4 gallon per minute. You can potentially increase your efficiency by slowing down the run-off rate, yet testing has indicated that a rate of less than 0.5 inches/minute is considered to be slower than necessary. Conversely, run-off rates greater than 1.5 inches/minute will be less efficient and elevate the risk of a stuck sparge.

I’m running at the slow end of their range and get 88%-92% mash effeciency, depending on grist.

 

[Gnomebrewer]

Questions -

1. Will the 1.5" tube be sufficient for preventing the wort from being scorched w/ a 2000W element?
2. Is a 15.5" heating element long enough (at this power level) to easily step mash and mash-out 10 gallons batches?
3. Is there a better way to go?!

1. I use 1.5" tube for up to 11 gallon batches with one of these
https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2200-Wa...epid=2002865820&hash=item4407ebf4e8:rk:1:pf:0
It's 2.2kW. I don't get scorching, but do get some protein residue on the element (it NEVER burns on there) especially with rests under sacch temps.
2. The element above is about 12" long. It easily handles steps and mash-out.
3. Probably. But I'm really happy with my setup.

 

[FunkedOut]

@Gnomebrewer that element is ~0.097W/mm2
No scorching is great!
What’s your flow rate?

 

[Gnomebrewer]

@Gnomebrewer that element is ~0.097W/mm2
No scorching is great!
What’s your flow rate?

No idea, sorry! I adjust the flow until it looks right.

Actually, I'd like to know, so I'll go and measure it.

 

[Gnomebrewer]

About 2L/min (1/2 gallon/min). I normally speed it up a bit 15 minutes or so in to the first sacch rest, after the grain bed has settled and a good bit of the starch has been converted.

I find that the element is rarely running at 100% (through the temp controller), only for short periods when there's a ramp of about 8C/16F or more.

 

[augiedoggy]

I use a 36" long 5/8" diameter element in a 1" stainless pipe rims here. I get just over 2 degrees per min f rise out of it when stepping a 10g mash. my element is an 1800w cartrige heater (240v) before this setup I used a shorter 24" 2000w cartridge element and found the longer lower wattage element actually works better. zero chance of scorching and no protien buildup on the element to clean. works like a herms as far as gentle heating but with speed and flexibility of a rims.
I recirc at about 1.5-1.8gpm. (on my flowmeter) the most my rims ever fires to maintain temps on my uninsulated 16g bayou mash tun is 21% so it really doesnt run much and a smaller wattage element would work fine as well thanks to the longer contact time on each pass with the gentler heating.

BTW I honestly average 91% with this setup and I think if I were getting channeling that it wouldnt be so high ... most brewers with full size pumps are trying to recirc way too fast causing their own problems. I use the little $20 tan 24v pumps in my homebrew house. I start them slow with pwm and eventually work them up to full speed which with the restrictions depending on grain bed are anywhere from 1 to 1.8gpm.