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I just started my first homebrew the other day. I followed the recipe and instructions exactly...it is an Irish stout btw...I put the yeast in after the temperature was under 90 degrees as per the instructions but then the next day it was still very warm (about 80 degrees) so I cooled it down to about 70. The vent on the fermenter was bubbling away for about 24 hrs and today it has completely stopped. I'm new to this and I know the bubbling isn't really a tell all but should I be worried it's stuck? I also don't want to open it to take a peek because I have read on here that opening it can be bad asituation well.
 
I don't like to say it, but you should have asked about the recipe before you brewed. Some kit instructions are just plain wrong. 90° and 80° is much to warm. Bring the temp of the wort down to 65°.
Can you post a link to the kit/recipe?
 
It may have been a fast ferment and could be ready to move to secondary.

You should get a hydrometer to be sure. That's the very best first upgrade

you should do right away.

In any case, opening the fermenter is ok just not too often and keep it as

clean as possible.

As far as the temps, it's a bit high but it will be good beer in anyway.

The more you brew, the better it gets.
 
Sure here's a link to the recipe that came in the packagehttp://www.winemakersdepot.com/Irish-Stout-Beer-Kit-Instructions-True-Brew-W53.aspx

It is a true brew irish stout kit. You'll see the first instruction under fermentation says allow to cool if necessary under 90 degrees
 
I have a hydrometer i bought with everything but again people have said not to open it and risk losing the co2 blanket...how can I get a sample without opening it
 
There are several ways to get the sample out. I will assume that you have a bucket fermenter with a ball valve on the bottom. Place the bucket up on a counter or bench to give some room to use the graduated cylinder that came with the hydrometer. You may want to place something i.e. small piece of wood on the bench to give the bucket some tilt and use gravity to get some of the beer out to measure. I usually spry the valve inside and out with Star San because it will sanitize the area and not hurt the beer.

The other involves using a "thief" device to suction the beer out. either will work and not spoil the beer.

Oh yeah I almost forgot SAMPLE the beer. If it tastes like beer then you will be fine.
I usually pitch my ale yeast at 68 ish after transferring to my conical fermenter and have not had a problem.
 
Lower the temperature of the wort to 64° to 65°. Wait two weeks to take a hydrometer reading. The fermentation will be done before two weeks, but the yeast will work at cleaning up off flavors after the fermentation is completed.
 
I have a hydrometer i bought with everything but again people have said not to open it and risk losing the co2 blanket...how can I get a sample without opening it

CO2 is heavier than air. The CO2 blanket will not dissipate unless you create a breeze into the fermentor.
 
It may have been a fast ferment and could be ready to move to secondary.

You should get a hydrometer to be sure. That's the very best first upgrade

you should do right away.

In any case, opening the fermenter is ok just not too often and keep it as

clean as possible.

As far as the temps, it's a bit high but it will be good beer in anyway.

The more you brew, the better it gets.

Racking to a secondary is not necessary unless you have additions like oak chips or whole fruit.
 
you can "rouse" the yeast by swirling the bucket around. Starting at high temp and then going lower, ( in your case from 90-70?)
could cause your yeast to quit. Rousing the yeast may help. If you try this and it starts bubbling again, just let it sit, you can rouse it a second time if you want.
You didn't say what yeast you used. If you're really worried about it, go to your local supplier and get some more dry yeast. Tell them you're brewing a stout and see what they have. If they have Danstar Nottingham, I'd get that. So then go and open your bucket and siphon off a sample. Sanitize your siphon with star san or some other sanitizer before you siphon. Take a reading on your sample
with your hydrometer. If its 10.10 or so, its done, rack to secondary or you can let it age in the primary before you bottle. If the reading is above 10.20 or higher, add the yeast you just got from your supplier. put the lid back on and you should see some action within 24 hrs.
 
Thanks for the advice I'll take a hydrometer sample and see what it looks like and just give it some time
 
Racking to a secondary is not necessary unless you have additions like oak chips or whole fruit.

It helps to clear the beer though but maybe that's old school. And I like to get it off the lees.
 
OK so I checked the gravity and it is .005 away from final gravity. Should it be fine?
 
OK so I checked the gravity and it is .005 away from final gravity. Should it be fine?

Looking good that it is only that far away from the estimated FG. It will take a couple more SG readings to know when it has reached FG.
An estimate is good for calculating potential ABV or to know if the fermentation is stuck high, but the yeast will finish when they finish. I would estimate another week for the FG to be measured and giving the yeast time to clean up off flavors.
 
Looking good that it is only that far away from the estimated FG. It will take a couple more SG readings to know when it has reached FG.
An estimate is good for calculating potential ABV or to know if the fermentation is stuck high, but the yeast will finish when they finish. I would estimate another week for the FG to be measured and giving the yeast time to clean up off flavors.

^^^This

I would also add if it's a truly "Irish" recipe, I'm guessing it uses and Irish or British yeast. Both Irish and British yeasts tend to be very flocculant. That is, they clump together and all out of suspension rather quickly. Mine always tend to start crashing after 48 hours, but I've heard plenty that did after 24.
 
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