120V system needs help

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martyjhuebs

Naked Gnome Brew Co
Joined
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Camp Lejuene
I currently have a 120V brew system that I put together to be able to use at rental properties. I am military and move a lot so it didn't give me many options. The issue I am encountering is that I have to run my elements on 2 different circuits in the house. I have to run an extension cord through the house just to not pop a breaker. My question would be, Is there a cost effective way to run my system without having to run cords everywhere? Maybe a transformer of some sort? A removable breaker system?

System:
3 Kegs
MLT with (2) 1500W HWD 120V Elements
Mash Tun with Chugger Pump and 4500W ULWD 240V element RIMS
Keggle with (2) 1650W ULWD 120V elements

Current setup requires plugging and unplugging of devices.
 
Maybe a spa panel tapped into a 240v supply you could split off into two separate 120v lines at a single point to not need extension cords? Just spit balling here. Not sure how that would work with two elements plus rims and pumps and whatnot.
 
That's definitely an option. There is only two items drawing power at a time so a dual 120V breaker would work, assuming its easy to put in and remove a 240V box. Of course I am not an electrician or I would have already figured this all out.
 
sounds to me like you already have a cost-effective approach!:D

what is your controller like? is it a single enclosure that you bring two power cords to? how do the extension cords connect to the controls?
 
System:
3 Kegs
MLT with (2) 1500W HWD 120V Elements
Mash Tun with Chugger Pump and 4500W ULWD 240V element RIMS
Keggle with (2) 1650W ULWD 120V elements

Current setup requires plugging and unplugging of devices.

I'm a bit confused about your setup: Do you have a 240V 4500W element running on 120V for the RIMS?

A transformer won't really help - a transformer changes current and voltage, but it can't change the power a circuit provides. That's limited by the voltage and wire size. Typical 120V circuits in a home are 15 or 20 amp, maximum. Power = Volts X Amps, so at best, a single circuit is going to be able to handle 2400W, and that's a 100% maximum. I'm not going to open the "80% current limit" debate here, but practically, you really won't find any 120V elements higher than 2000W.

So, since P=VxA, you can either increase Voltage and/or Amps (current). Both require changing the way a circuit is wired, so you really don't have many options other than to create a new circuit from your breaker box or find a 240V circuit (like an oven or dryer) and re-purpose it for brewing. The latter is probably the best option for you - you can create an extension cord that plugs into your dryer or stove outlet and use it to power your brew rig.

I'll put the usual statement of "if you don't know what you are doing with electricity, consult a professional" here as well as highly recommend a GFCI. There's another couple of threads going on about the merits of GFCI's - for those of you in that debate, please don't continue it in this thread!
 
You could learn to install a new circuit in your breaker box, and run 240 off it. Then remove it or leave it behind when you move. It's not a lot of work and it isn't especially difficult.
 
I'm a bit confused about your setup: Do you have a 240V 4500W element running on 120V for the RIMS?

Yes, I have since upgraded so I have a 5500W running around 1375ish... Ultra low watt so I don't scorch.

Im definitely not an electrician but building this myself is most of the fun. If I choose to electrocute myself that's my decision (not to sound like a dick, I just keep hearing this everytime I ask an electrical question). I currently run my devices off GCFI plugins and my element connection enclosures are filled with waterproof silicone.
 
sounds to me like you already have a cost-effective approach!:D

what is your controller like? is it a single enclosure that you bring two power cords to? how do the extension cords connect to the controls?

I bought a Japanese made PID that I couldn't program so I scrapped my whole controller. I just plug in what I need when I need it except for the RIMS. I have the RIMS element wired to a switch that I turn on when I see my gauge start to drop on the mash tun.
 
I bought a Japanese made PID that I couldn't program so I scrapped my whole controller. I just plug in what I need when I need it except for the RIMS. I have the RIMS element wired to a switch that I turn on when I see my gauge start to drop on the mash tun.

What model pid? the japanese made one should have been no harder to figure out than the chinese made ones 95% of us here use whether they have engrish or better rewritten directions... RKC makes the real rex c100 pids in japan....

The mechanical switch your using will likely burn out or fuse closed soon if your sitting there turning it on and off quickly as you would need to to properly regulate steady temps.
 
What model pid? the japanese made one should have been no harder to figure out than the chinese made ones 95% of us here use whether they have engrish or better rewritten directions... RKC makes the real rex c100 pids in japan....

It is an RKC, could not for the life of me get it into program mode. not a single button combo worked. Also after wiring everything correctly, and it was verified several times, the socket I was trying to control remained on regardless of the controller.
 
The mechanical switch your using will likely burn out or fuse closed soon if your sitting there turning it on and off quickly as you would need to to properly regulate steady temps.

The switch will stay on for several minutes at a time, anywhere from 5-10 minutes. I have a insulated keg mash tun that takes a decent amount of time to increase temps with 20+ lbs of grain.
 
Yes, I have since upgraded so I have a 5500W running around 1375ish... Ultra low watt so I don't scorch.

Im definitely not an electrician but building this myself is most of the fun. If I choose to electrocute myself that's my decision (not to sound like a dick, I just keep hearing this everytime I ask an electrical question). I currently run my devices off GCFI plugins and my element connection enclosures are filled with waterproof silicone.

I with you on building the system being most of the fun! I always say brewing is just a means to test my latest system upgrades.

I understand your point on the electrical advice stuff; I think the main point is that, like any other tool we use, we need to understand and respect it. Electricity really isn't that difficult to understand but it's important to know how to use it safely. Chainsaws are great tools, but they have been known to cut off limbs if used improperly - that's not the chainsaw's fault though!

Are you in base housing or do you just rent? I don't know if it's changed since my service days, but I seem to remember base housing had lots of silly rules about what kind of appliances were allowed and what weren't. Not sure if that impacts what your options are. If you have a stove or dryer outlet, that's still probably your best best to get more power without having to change around the wiring in the house.
 
Are you in base housing or do you just rent? I don't know if it's changed since my service days, but I seem to remember base housing had lots of silly rules about what kind of appliances were allowed and what weren't. Not sure if that impacts what your options are. If you have a stove or dryer outlet, that's still probably your best best to get more power without having to change around the wiring in the house.

Last time I bought a house the Marine Corps sent me halfway across the country. Im currently renting but ill soon be moving across the other half of the country now into base housing. If they don't like me using my setup, Ill just close the garage door :D!
 
Last time I bought a house the Marine Corps sent me halfway across the country. Im currently renting but ill soon be moving across the other half of the country now into base housing. If they don't like me using my setup, Ill just close the garage door :D!

Either that, or have some homebrew ready to bribe them when they come by for an inspection!:mug:
 
If you're completely set on three vessel then disregard but you could always simplify the system and just BIAB in your boil kettle maybe with a simple pour over sparge if you're shooting for 10 gallon batches. You would still need two circuits but not share them between three powered kettles. At least until you got settled in a place where it makes sense to alter the electrical to your needs.
 
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