120v EBIAB Controller parts question

[Kmcogar]

I am trying to build a 120v EBIAB CONTROLLER. I am looking into all options so i can do this on the cheap.

Would this switch work?

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B009IS79QI/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

or

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004WLK5/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

The switches i was looking at cost about $12 a piece. I am sure there is a good reason for it but I am not sure I need a switch this powerful. http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7_32&products_id=223

 

[doug293cz]

I am trying to build a 120v EBIAB CONTROLLER. I am looking into all options so i can do this on the cheap.

Would this switch work?

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B009IS79QI/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

or

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00004WLK5/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20

The switches i was looking at cost about $12 a piece. I am sure there is a good reason for it but I am not sure I need a switch this powerful. http://www.auberins.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=7_32&products_id=223

The first switches you list are only rated for 12V DC. Don't use them, unless you are doing low voltage control logic thru contactors to control the high voltage. But, I infer from your question that that is not what you are planning.

The second switches will probably be ok, but I would want them mounted in a properly grounded metal cabinet. I wouldn't use them in a plastic or other non-conductive enclosure.

The Auber switches are nice if you want lighted switches so you can tell what is on and off from a distance. They save panel space (and maybe some $) compared to a switch in combination with a separate light.

Do you have a schematic diagram that shows how the system you want to build is wired? If not, you should create one so you can keep track of what you are doing. You can also post it on HBT for comments that might save you some grief later on. Screwing up the electrical can burn your house down.

Brew on

 

[Kmcogar]

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=381476

I am copying this schematic. But I was going to try and save money. I guess if its choosing between burning down my house and spending a little extra money on the controller...I should probably just spend the extra money.

I guess i will be buying each piece of this build a little bit at a time

 

[doug293cz]

https://www.homebrewtalk.com/showthread.php?t=381476

I am copying this schematic. But I was going to try and save money. I guess if its choosing between burning down my house and spending a little extra money on the controller...I should probably just spend the extra money.

I guess i will be buying each piece of this build a little bit at a time

If you are looking to save money, and not compromise safety, you can do the following:

1. Replace Switch 1 & 2 and the two contactors with two of these switches. They should also be available at your local home improvement store. Make sure you get double pole switches rated for at least 20A.
2. You can leave out the PID switch and just have it come on when you plug the unit in. Keep the fuse for the PID.
3. Swap the Auber 2352 PID for a Mypin TD4 from Amazon.
4. Get lower cost SSR + heatsink combos from Amazon or ebay.

The panel won't be as elegant with the substitutions, but it will cost less.

Some important things to remember when using the circuit diagram you linked:

• You must plug each power input into a separate 20A, GFCI protected circuit. They cannot be on the same circuit. The emergency off switch will not work without GFCI circuits, and you are at a serious shock risk if you don't use GFCI circuits.
• You must be careful to wire the neutrals exactly as shown. If you mix up the neutrals, you will blow a GFCI every time you turn it on.

Brew on

 

[Kmcogar]

Thanks Doug!!! That info is awesome!

 

[Kmcogar]

If you are looking to save money, and not compromise safety, you can do the following:

1. Replace Switch 1 & 2 and the two contactors with two of these switches. They should also be available at your local home improvement store. Make sure you get double pole switches rated for at least 20A.
2. You can leave out the PID switch and just have it come on when you plug the unit in. Keep the fuse for the PID.
3. Swap the Auber 2352 PID for a Mypin TD4 from Amazon.
4. Get lower cost SSR + heatsink combos from Amazon or ebay.

The panel won't be as elegant with the substitutions, but it will cost less.

Some important things to remember when using the circuit diagram you linked:

• You must plug each power input into a separate 20A, GFCI protected circuit. They cannot be on the same circuit. The emergency off switch will not work without GFCI circuits, and you are at a serious shock risk if you don't use GFCI circuits.
• You must be careful to wire the neutrals exactly as shown. If you mix up the neutrals, you will blow a GFCI every time you turn it on.

Brew on

why does the switch have to be a double pole?

 

[doug293cz]

why does the switch have to be a double pole?

Functionally, they don't. Double pole was just to match the switching provided by the original schematic. Make sure you put the switch on the hot legs, and not neutral. And, if I were doing this, I would put the switches before the SSR's, so that when they are off, the SSR's don't have any potential on them.

Brew on