1118 yeast

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I do wonder why did you choose ec-1118? It is a naturally aggressive yeast at less than "room temperature", and fermenting it warm may give off some flavors you don't want. Have you ever tasted a Saison-Cider? It is really tasty stuff and that yeast will be very happy at most "room temperatures". I don't remember which yeast I used when I first starting making cider, but I did not know that controlling temperatures for cider was also very critical. I had a beautiful 1 gallon jug of what smelled like nail polish remover and it took months to get that smell out of the cider--the cider was recoverable and consumed.
 
I've read situations where people use 1118 at 10°C and still get it to work. I would think at room temperature it would ferment out in 2-3 days.

I am going to try EC 1118 in one of my batches along with 71B-1122, as I read 71B is shown to reduce acidity up to 25% and this looks appealing to me.
 
So far i have only used 1118 yeast. at 66-68F it ferments out in about 2 weeks. It ferments aggressively at first but then just chugs away at a constant pace.

I have another 5gal batch with 10lbs of suger added and it is still fermenting, started oct 4th (66-68f).

I will be trying my hand at some ice cider (45F is my goal) with 1118 in the near future.
 
I chose that yeast because of the temp of the room I'm going to use. Haven't started yet. I also have Nottingham ale yeast & 47 I could use.
 
If you prefer your ciders dry, Red Star Red Pasteur yeast is very forgiving of "room temperature" ferments and does not strip away the nuances of the fruit used.
 
Fermenting a cider at room temp with 1118 may leave you with a bland, fizzy water-tasting cider. 1118 is pretty good at stripping out flavors and will even ferment at much lower temperatures, like around 55F. 1118 is also very "boring" yeast that doesn't lend any flavor complexity by production of esters and phenols, which most other ale and wine yeasts will do.

I'd recommend the Nottingham or D47 if you can ferment more towards 55f. D47 at room temperature may produce too rapid of a fermentation which can scrub out flavors during rapid production of CO2.
 
I am going to try EC 1118 in one of my batches along with 71B-1122, as I read 71B is shown to reduce acidity up to 25% and this looks appealing to me.

It is my understanding that yeasts do not reduce acidity, however, 71B is advertised as a yeast that creates a good environment for malolactic bacteria to convert malic acid to lactic acid which results in a lower percieved (smoother) acidity in ciders and wines. However, malolactic fermentation will only occur if you use unpasturized juice or add in the correct bacterial culture.
 
Fermenting a cider at room temp with 1118 may leave you with a bland, fizzy water-tasting cider.

OR.....it may land you a silver medal at GLINTCAP on top of winning back to back victories in local annual homebrew competitions.

I see a lot of hate on these forums for EC-1118 but i'm going to have to "call bull sheet" If your cider turns out bland with EC-1118 then you're doing it wrong/not using the right recipe.

If your OG is 1.040 then yeah, wrong yeast to use unless you like VERY dry ciders. But for those using Chaptalization, this yeast is a workhorse like no other.

I do suggest fermenting on the cooler side with it. Low 60`s work fine without putting out those "Rhino farts" provided you give it a good amount of yeast nutrient/energiser.

But like everything....YMMV
 
It is my understanding that yeasts do not reduce acidity, however, 71B is advertised as a yeast that creates a good environment for malolactic bacteria to convert malic acid to lactic acid which results in a lower percieved (smoother) acidity in ciders and wines. However, malolactic fermentation will only occur if you use unpasturized juice or add in the correct bacterial culture.

71B is documented as being able to metabolize some malic acid in wines and cider, which as you said, is perceived as lowering acid. It's not MLF. I used it on a batch last year that resulted in a tasty cider, but I'm actually going to put some acid back in because without the malic acid "bite" the cider is kind of bland. I probably won't use it again.
 
I just started 3 gallons of cider with appx. 5 grams of Nottingham Ale yeast. (comes in 11 gram package), I put vodka in the bubbler and started the yeast with 4 oz. of warmed water. Wish me luck.

Cider.jpg
 
BillB, for the beginning of fermentation that much head space should not be a problem, but once you get down to 1.025 or so it needs to as little head space as possible, to prevent possible contamination.
 
71B is documented as being able to metabolize some malic acid in wines and cider, which as you said, is perceived as lowering acid. It's not MLF. I used it on a batch last year that resulted in a tasty cider, but I'm actually going to put some acid back in because without the malic acid "bite" the cider is kind of bland. I probably won't use it again.

I am going to try a 12l batch with with 71B. The juice I managed to source this year is unpasteurized, and blended to an SG of 1.060 starting. My fermentation cellar has been holding steady at 15°C for the last few weeks but I am hoping it drops down a couple of degrees buy the time I begin.

I have to make an appointment to get the apple juice and then it's off to the races once again.

Yes, in the books I read it is stated that 71B metabolizes some malic acid, which is why I would like to try it out.
 
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