Help with AC wiring for Glycol Chiller

I started building a DIY glycol chiller prior to Christmas and am now getting back around to it.

I left off by removing the internal thermostat and putting the red wires together and now I'm a bit lost about what to do with the green/yellow ground wire. I forgot what it was previously attached too.

I have attached some photos the of the wiring and one of the wiring diagram.

Thanks.

LosBarbonesBrewingCo said:

I started building a DIY glycol chiller prior to Christmas and am now getting back around to it.

I left off by removing the internal thermostat and putting the red wires together and now I'm a bit lost about what to do with the green/yellow ground wire. I forgot what it was previously attached too.

I have attached some photos the of the wiring and one of the wiring diagram.

Thanks.

Click to expand...

Thats the ground

That's what I figured @jddevinn

I'm just wondering what to do with it.

Thanks.

I think that one is supposed to attach to the compressor. Just make sure you have a ground going to both motors( compressor and fan).

You have a terminal block of grounds their. Trace them back, everything electrical should have a ground and the frame should have a ground.... my guess is that's the one that goes to the frame.

Thanks again jddevinn and ryfi

The Yellow cable from the terminal blocks runs to the middle fan. The green cable goes directly into the power cable. The power cable wires goes into the capacitor which then run to the compressor. I hope this helps in determining where the green/yellow wire goes.

I attached more pictures.

Thanks!

The oem thermostat likely was inside a small metal housing, yes?
The green/yellow safety ground wire would have been attached to the housing.

If you literally removed the thermostat, that wire has no function, so just wrap the terminal end of the safety ground wire with electrical tape and give it a good ignoring from then on...

Cheers!

Thanks @day_trippr

Hello all,

Coming back to this thread for a little more advice. I had not put this into use until last night and the AC does not cool below 64.4º F. I had it running all night and no luck. This was a new AC and I did not damage the coolant line. Is this possibly on a "Fan" setting? Any ideas would help.

Thanks.

So, three months later...is this literally the first time you ran this unit long enough to see if it actually cools?

Does the compressor actually run?

Cheers!

Hey @day_trippr, we all work at our own pace

How can I tell if the compressor actually runs? I hear the AC running (mainly by the sound of the fan) so I'm not sure what to look out for.

Thanks.

Usually if you carefully put a hand on the compressor housing you can feel the heat.

But if it's that hard to tell if the compressor motor is spinning, disconnect it, and see if the sound changes...

Cheers!

I removed the AC housing today to test as you suggested. After 10 minutes with the AC on, the compressor started to feel noticeably warmer and I assume it was on the whole time because it was vibrating.

Thanks @day_trippr

I'm wondering if it's best to remove the switch that controls the temperatures.

I also realized that the Inkbird temp controller I was using wasn't working. I had removed the Inkbird to use it on my kegerator and the kegerator wouldn't cool either. So I went back to the AC and plugged it in directly to an outlet to see if that would cool. It still wouldn't. I've also tried switching the settings on the switch with no luck.

Any suggestions?

the skinny line coming off the compressor should get hot to the touch assuming the compressor is running and the freon hasn't leaked out. If the compressor is only getting 'warm' to the touch, there probably is little to no gas left in it and it can't build up sufficient pressure to provide cooling.

Shockerengr said:

the skinny line coming off the compressor should get hot to the touch assuming the compressor is running and the freon hasn't leaked out. If the compressor is only getting 'warm' to the touch, there probably is little to no gas left in it and it can't build up sufficient pressure to provide cooling.

Click to expand...

And at the other end of that tube the liquid freon will return to a gaseous state as it enters the evaporator absorbing heat, therefore it will feel cold, and should build up frost before too long. If it gets cool, but not cold then it's a low freon or failing compressor issue.

My dehumidifier based glycol chiller takes up to 30 minutes when I first fire it up before the evaporator tube really gets cold, then when it starts cycling it's only like 5 minutes. It could be 50 yrs old, so I guess it takes time to wake up, but it will freeze the glycol solid in the fins if I I don't keep it circulating fast enough.

I tested this again and have uploaded a diagram of what I'm observing.

I let the A/C run for 30 minutes. The compressor is hot and the motor is spinning. The thicker copper line is cool to the touch. This thicker line appears to run from some small canister behind the compressor to the coil inside my ice chest. The thinner copper line coming out of the compressor is hot to the touch. This line runs from the compressor the the coil in the rear. The smaller metal line is cool to the touch.

Thanks.

So after trying to read up about air conditioning and trying to get a better understanding of this, I assume the freon is empty. This is strange because I bought this AC new and I seriously doubt I punctured any line since I never heard a hiss. Any way to test this?

Sorry to hijack here, but could a guy just use an inkbird ITC 308 with the temp probe submersed in the Glycol? That would help a simpleton like myself avoid getting electrocuted.