Need help ID'ing lid

I may be an idiot, or just very new to kegging. I can't seem to find a definitive ID of this keg lid:


It's a borrowed keg from a friend. I've gone through and replaced all of the o-rings. When I did a pressure test everything was fine except the PRV. So, naturally I when to remove it and determine if it was salvageable. Murphy's Law kicked in and I broke the nut on the underside of the lid.


Now I'm trying to find parts and I'm not sure which ones I need.

Any help from you guys would be greatly appreciated.

Steve

That is an old racetrack lid. I would replace the whole lid. If you do not mind the auto PRV, you can get a used pin lock lid form Adventures in Homebrewing for $2.99 (I would get a couple extras). Or you can get a shiny new lid with a manual PRV from just about anywhere for around $15.

BTW, if you really just want to replace the PRV, here is one from AIH:

http://www.homebrewing.org/Keg-pressure-relief-valve-assembly_p_3502.html, its 13.99, two bucks less than a new lid.

Thanks very much.

Let's continue breaking down the stupid wall, shall we? What are the advantages to having an auto or manual relief valve? And does it matter if the lid is pin or ball when the keg itself is setup for ball lock?

Like I said before, this is my first adventure in kegging.

A manual PRV can come in handy for purging the keg head space, resetting pressure lower, releasing pressure before servicing posts, etc. It's not necessary, it's just handy to have.

That doesn't matter with the type of keg - handy is handy no matter what. But pin lock kegs typically lack a manual PRV - some may have a one-time PRV for safety, some may have no PRV at all.

You can find all types of race track lids, and as mentioned price varies with features (plus the obligatory Ball Lock Premium). Just have to look for them...

Cheers!

That nut is not beyond removal. Use a decent, right-sized box-end wrench and try removing it. There appears to be enough meat for it to come out.

MC

cmor said:

Thanks very much.

Let's continue breaking down the stupid wall, shall we? What are the advantages to having an auto or manual relief valve? And does it matter if the lid is pin or ball when the keg itself is setup for ball lock?

Like I said before, this is my first adventure in kegging.

Click to expand...

Sorry, the manual PRV on pin locks just keep the keg from over pressurizing and will release automatically at around 90 - 100 psi. The manual PRV will guard against over pressurizing (auto release around 90 - 100 psi) and allow you to manually release pressure for purging head space when kegging (getting the air out). You can purge the head space with a pin lock but depressing the poppet on the GAS post. You can use pin lock tops on ball lock kegs (and vice versa).

I have pin lock kegs with pin lock lids and have no problems with purging air through the post.