Noob Keggle Build

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
TopherM

TopherM

Well-Known Member
Joined
Mar 15, 2011
Messages
3,973
Reaction score
463
Location
St. Petersburg
I was looking to upgrade my brew kettle to start to do BIAB instead of extract kits. Today, I picked up a nice shiny sanke keg for $15.00. I have read many threads about keggle builds, and I am handy enough to DIY, but I don't own a Dremel, which is what most everyone suggests for lopping off the top. At $55.00 for a cheapy at Lowes, I don't really want to get one, if I don't have to.

Does anyone have any workarounds or low-cost ghetto tools that can cut the top off a SS Sanke?? I have a receprical saw that I think could probably do the job if I could just cut an initial hole to start. Has anyone tried it with a receprical saw?
 
Your recep saw would do it but it would look rough.

An Angle Grinder is the ticket. You'll need one to smooth the cuts anyway. Cheap at Harbor Freight.
 
They make cutting blades for Angle Grinders, or just grinding stones/brushes? A $25.00 tool is starting to make more sense. Or do you mean use my saw to do the cut, then an angle grinder to clean it up from there?
 
No, they make cut-off disks for those angle grinders. You're going to need a few of them though. Then just get a buffing/grinding wheel to clean up the cut afterwards.

I have seen some photos around here where guys used their Sawzall and it isn't something you would show off to anyone.

You can build a Jig for the grinder. Many examples around here from complicated wood jigs to pvc jigs. One guy geniusly used a simple loop of string around the neck of the keg and the tool. I made mine out of a couple Campbell Soup cans a board and some zip ties.
 
Yeah, I can attest to how well angle grinder jigs work. I'd go that route...

IMG_0374.jpg
 
If you aren't a "tool guy" and just want the top cut, my advice is seek out someone with a plasma cutter. I got mine cut for $10, and he insisted on using his grinder to dress the slag down when he was done with the cut, which took all of one minute.
 
WOW a dremel tool that would SUCK to do it that way IMO.

I assume you will have no tools and can probably save you some time hunting down stuff...

The 1st thing to do is read this thread and acquire the parts from the 1st stop below: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/simplest-keggle-cutting-jig-143048/ need for the jig.

1st stop is Home Depot. They sell a cheaper Ryobi angle grinder. It is around 40 bucks as seen here: http://www.homedepot.com/Ryobi/h_d1...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053 This tool has been used more than my stinking drill. IMO it is a MUST to have. You can find cheapo HF ones but they lack the ability to screw the handle into the back of the grinder so you can use a "quick jig" and have more than 1 moving part so it may only work for 5 minutes lol... If you look close in the link I provided, you can see the hole that the handle can be screwed into so that it will be 90 degrees to the disk. It comes with some disks but you will want/need more. If you can catch a sale or a coupon even better...

2nd stop Harbor Freight. Pick up some good safety goggles, leather gloves, a pack of 4 1/2" cutting disks and a few "flapper disks". You may as well also get some "step drill bits" that are nitride coated. I used the ones that came in a 2 pack with a skinny one and a fat one...

3rd is to head over to http://www.bargainfittings.com/ (shameless plug for an AWESOME vendor here on HBT!) Pick up a weldless bulk head kit with the SS ball lock and side pick up tube. (If you have the extra cash grab up 3 or more feet of the 1/2" silicon tubing, you WILL want this in the future anyway.) Follow the instructions there on how to install it.

When you are all done we demand pics...

GL!
 
lonepalm said:
I was pounding trying to get the ball valve out of mine any tips?
Click to expand...

I have two kegs that I can't get the ball valve and spear out of. I suppose I could try harder, but decided to build a jig that fits on the outside of the fitting. I'm sure that it will work but I had too many beers on the way home tonight to plug in my angle grinder. :drunk:
 
lonepalm said:
I was pounding trying to get the ball valve out of mine any tips?
Click to expand...

I assume you mean the spear??? These are normally very easy to remove...99% of the time they do not even need to have any hammering done to them...

Step 1: Use a screwdriver or something to give you leverage and release all the pressure in the keg. If you do this to hard/fast and there is beer in the keg, it will go everywhere! Some hand taps have a pressure release valve that you can pull. (I find using these to release pressure results in less beer all over but I have gotten pretty good with a screw driver/wrench as well...)

Step 2: Remove the snap ring. (I use 2 regular screwdrivers, I small one like a medium precision and a normal small screw driver. Sometimes you need to gently tap the smallest screw driver in to get it behind the snap ring. Using a knife blade can work but it will almost always bend/break the tip and if it slips it can cut you...)

Step 3: Gently tap the spear edge with a hammer + the larger screwdriver to loosen it. If it wiggles it is free and does not need any further hammering.

Step 4: Using 2 or more fingers lift the spear (into the space the snap ring occupied) , then twist to the left until it stops (This is a TINY amount of twisting, it isn't a screw...) and pull it up/out. You may need to wiggle it to get it to come up. There is a rubber/silicon o-ring that is holding it in the keg.
 
Zamial said:
I assume you mean the spear??? These are normally very easy to remove...99% of the time they do not even need to have any hammering done to them...

My Bud Light keg was easy. The Guiness & Bass kegs, not so much.

OP - buy a cheap angle grinder. I love my dremel but can't imagine trying to top the kegs with it. http://www.harborfreight.com/power-tools/grinders-buffers/4-1-2-half-inch-angle-grinder-95578.html. Harbor freight will have great sales through Fathers Day. If it gets through a couple kegs before burning up you got your money's worth.
Click to expand...
 
Topher: i used a recip saw with bimetal blades back when i cut mine off. Mine were very clean and took minimal cleanup to be perfectly round/smooth. Draw you circle first using a Sharpie (tie some string around the stem in a wide loop or something to guide the sharpie...shoot me a pm if that doesnt make sense). Follow the circle carefully while you cut, its slow going anyways. Wear headphones, it rings like a bell, loooouud. Cleanup with flap sander or whatever. Make sure all pressure is relieved first, and use a fat drill for a coule starter holes to get the saw blade in.
 
One of the few childhood memories I have is of my father cussin up a storm while cutting a keg top with a dremel, he got it done but it took him forEVER. Cheap grinder or take it by a welding shop and get them to torch it for you.

As for the spears I have encounter kegs that do not have a lock ring and no amount of hammering would free the spear, ended up just punching a hole in it to vent and cutting.
 
If you dont want to buy you can rent a angle grinder at most tool rental places (Home depot). But if you throw another 30 on it you could buy a cheap one.
 
Zamial said:
I assume you mean the spear??? These are normally very easy to remove...99% of the time they do not even need to have any hammering done to them...

Step 1: Use a screwdriver or something to give you leverage and release all the pressure in the keg. If you do this to hard/fast and there is beer in the keg, it will go everywhere! Some hand taps have a pressure release valve that you can pull. (I find using these to release pressure results in less beer all over but I have gotten pretty good with a screw driver/wrench as well...)

Step 2: Remove the snap ring. (I use 2 regular screwdrivers, I small one like a medium precision and a normal small screw driver. Sometimes you need to gently tap the smallest screw driver in to get it behind the snap ring. Using a knife blade can work but it will almost always bend/break the tip and if it slips it can cut you...)

Step 3: Gently tap the spear edge with a hammer + the larger screwdriver to loosen it. If it wiggles it is free and does not need any further hammering.

Step 4: Using 2 or more fingers lift the spear (into the space the snap ring occupied) , then twist to the left until it stops (This is a TINY amount of twisting, it isn't a screw...) and pull it up/out. You may need to wiggle it to get it to come up. There is a rubber/silicon o-ring that is holding it in the keg.
Click to expand...

I just can get the damn snap ring out!
 
follow on question - how close to the lip is too close? I see a lot of keggles with 1"-3" "ledge" left inside the top. Is there anything in the construction of kegs that would prohibit you from getting closer, other than maybe wanting a ledge to set your lid on?
 
cliffhanger1821 said:
follow on question - how close to the lip is too close? I see a lot of keggles with 1"-3" "ledge" left inside the top. Is there anything in the construction of kegs that would prohibit you from getting closer, other than maybe wanting a ledge to set your lid on?
Click to expand...

Only thing I can think of getting in the way is how close you can get the grinder to the edge of the keg, I freehanded mine by using the keg "handle/stiffning ring/whatever it is called" resting against the grinder guard and got a pretty decent circle (only a couple of spots I would have liked better ;)) with about 1" of "lip". And if you take it slowly and don't force the cut-off blade into the keg you should be able to do it with less than 1 disc, I have only cut one but the disc I used could do at least another. Don't try going all the way through in one pass, just take off a bit at a time each time round and you'll be good.
 
cliffhanger1821 said:
follow on question - how close to the lip is too close? I see a lot of keggles with 1"-3" "ledge" left inside the top. Is there anything in the construction of kegs that would prohibit you from getting closer, other than maybe wanting a ledge to set your lid on?
Click to expand...

The lid is the important factor I would look at. I wish I'd cut mine further away from the lip to be able to put my turkey fryer pot lid on top. It'd help ramp up temps in the HLT and BK quicker. (Don't leave the lid on the boil kettle during the boil though or the dreaded DMS will come out of the pot and strangle you or something -- I don't remember specifics and I've been drinking this evening.)
 
Zamial said:
WOW a dremel tool that would SUCK to do it that way IMO.

I assume you will have no tools and can probably save you some time hunting down stuff...

The 1st thing to do is read this thread and acquire the parts from the 1st stop below: https://www.homebrewtalk.com/f51/simplest-keggle-cutting-jig-143048/ need for the jig.

1st stop is Home Depot. They sell a cheaper Ryobi angle grinder. It is around 40 bucks as seen here: http://www.homedepot.com/Ryobi/h_d1...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053 This tool has been used more than my stinking drill. IMO it is a MUST to have. You can find cheapo HF ones but they lack the ability to screw the handle into the back of the grinder so you can use a "quick jig" and have more than 1 moving part so it may only work for 5 minutes lol... If you look close in the link I provided, you can see the hole that the handle can be screwed into so that it will be 90 degrees to the disk. It comes with some disks but you will want/need more. If you can catch a sale or a coupon even better...

2nd stop Harbor Freight. Pick up some good safety goggles, leather gloves, a pack of 4 1/2" cutting disks and a few "flapper disks". You may as well also get some "step drill bits" that are nitride coated. I used the ones that came in a 2 pack with a skinny one and a fat one...

3rd is to head over to http://www.bargainfittings.com/ (shameless plug for an AWESOME vendor here on HBT!) Pick up a weldless bulk head kit with the SS ball lock and side pick up tube. (If you have the extra cash grab up 3 or more feet of the 1/2" silicon tubing, you WILL want this in the future anyway.) Follow the instructions there on how to install it.

When you are all done we demand pics...

GL!
Click to expand...

Heading to HF at lunch today.

I'm not all that familiar with the discs i needs to buy.

-cutting - obviously metal?
-flapper - what are these for?
 
Flapper discs are for cleaning up any burrs after you cut it, very handy. Can also be used for a quick and dirty quasi polish
 
Grahambo said:
Flapper discs are for cleaning up any burrs after you cut it, very handy. Can also be used for a quick and dirty quasi polish
Click to expand...

They look like a whole bunch of strips of sandpaper laid ontop of each other and fanned out 360 degrees.
 
So after walking away from the spring clip and a ton of drinks last night celebrating Bruins wrought of the canucks....it came to me.

Drywall screw + drill = spear in trash

See pics....easy as pie, screw pulls it out.

ForumRunner_20110616_200753.jpg
 

Similar threads

B
For Sale (IN) ebrewsupply I assembled kit, keggles, soldered fittings
Replies
3
Views
708
brum
B
L
Building a potentiometer controller
Replies
25
Views
1K
doug293cz
doug293cz
PashMaddle
Noob doing the noob thing.
2
Replies
56
Views
2K
Kornssj
Kornssj
M
6 gal torpedo mega mouth height
Replies
3
Views
484
GoeHaarden
GoeHaarden
Brushwood Brewing
Kegerator Issue - Compressor Constantly Running
Replies
21
Views
1K
Bobby_M
Bobby_M
Yakima 300

Latest posts

Back
Top