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Old 11-28-2012, 02:31 AM   #431
malador
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mattd2 View Post
Sorry to butt in here but is there any reason why it has to be 3 phase? As long as the pump can do what you want it to you should be able to drop a single hot leg to run single phase equipment , no? I would imagine that you would not need to go to single phase untill you were much bigger than the realm of a micro brewery, say 50 hL (just a guess )
There really is no great reason for it to be three phase. But then there is not a great reason have pumps for home brewing. I like three phase motors, they are quiet, easy to adjust speed, have no centrifugal switches, and they are what i work with the most. I know the benefits wont out weight the cost, but i don't care.

 
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Old 11-28-2012, 03:30 AM   #432
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Originally Posted by LordUlrich View Post
While a single phase pump would work, in a bigger or any professional brewery I would go for as big of a pump as possible. When you need to make money off brewing time is important. On the 10bbl system at my old job transfer took a little over a hour and a half for each transfer. For every batch that is 4.5 hours just pumping beer. It adds up quick.
That's 3.5 GPM? What pump where you running? A March AC-5SSB-MD will pump out 8 GPM on the middle of its pump curve. I don't think the issue at that brewery was a single phase pump.

 
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Old 11-28-2012, 02:27 PM   #433
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The people that get into 3 PHase motors are usually eyeing a VFD (Variable frquency drive) to be installed on the motor so they can adjust the RPM's of the motor and the output of the pump on the fly....no valves to monkey with just turn a dial to set value and go
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Old 11-28-2012, 03:03 PM   #434
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Quote:
Originally Posted by WalterAtMarchPump View Post
The people that get into 3 PHase motors are usually eyeing a VFD (Variable frquency drive) to be installed on the motor so they can adjust the RPM's of the motor and the output of the pump on the fly....no valves to monkey with just turn a dial to set value and go
Walter's right, that's exactly what I plan to do. I have a couple of extra VFD's sitting the garage, and this seems like a fun use for them.

I'm like a kid at Xmass hoping walter writes me back letting me know if i listed the parts I need.

 
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Old 11-28-2012, 03:38 PM   #435
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should have gotten my reply to your x-mas list already
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Old 12-03-2012, 10:08 PM   #436
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Hello Walter - Can you tell me what wire gauge you're using for the power cords on the 815 pump? Also how hard would it be to break down the motor housing to install a new power cord, versus splicing on to the original cord to get the length I need for my setup?

Thanks, Kevin

 
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Old 12-04-2012, 01:48 PM   #437
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrjofus1959 View Post
Hello Walter - Can you tell me what wire gauge you're using for the power cords on the 815 pump? Also how hard would it be to break down the motor housing to install a new power cord, versus splicing on to the original cord to get the length I need for my setup?

Thanks, Kevin
Breaking down the motor to change the cord is about impossible for most people. If you were to pop the back cover off the motor you would see the lamination stacks inside....there are two dimples on the outside of the motor that hold that stack in plac....you would need to pop them out to be able just to remove that stack....then you will see the cord is crimped to the main coil wires....must people dont have any type of crimper to spice it the right way...and i'm not sure how well solder would work here.....then if you were actually able to get to this point you would need to insert the stack back into the housing and stake it again without distorting the assembly! Most people that call and ask about this i advise against trying it. Just extend the cord you have now and install a nice braided sleeve over the cord to hide the splice.
The wire gauge is 18

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Old 12-04-2012, 11:30 PM   #438
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Thanks Walter - splicing it shall be!

 
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Old 01-02-2013, 03:35 PM   #439
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Walter,
Attempting to do a toolbox install of my 815. I read what you said around Page 30 of this thread about offsetting the magnet on the shaft. When I take off the motor bracket, I can't seem to take the magnet off the shaft. It looks like there is a place for a set screw, but unless I'm missing something, it doesn't look like there is a set screw there! Despite this, I can't seem to slide or remove the magnet. See pic....

- What is going on that doesn't allow me to slide or remove the magnet?
- Does this even in fact have to be done? The toolbox is relatively thin (~1/32"?) and in most of the blogs and articles I've seen about this type of setup, offsetting the magnet isn't mentioned.

Much thanks!!!
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Old 01-02-2013, 04:10 PM   #440
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Most times its hard to make out but the set screw takes a 1/8" allen key to break it free....once the set screw is loose it "should" come off...if its stubborn then take two flat head screw drivers and put the tips under the collar of the magnet up against the shaft and pry it off.....but do it with two screw drivers so you put equal pressure on it as its coming off. 1/32" shouldnt bother the drive magnet....worse case if you have decoupling issues you may need to take it apart later and re-set the magnet on the shaft.
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