nanoRIMS Build

I thought I would share this little DIY project. I am aware that I am opening myself up to a lot of...ehhh..."comments" so have at it!

I brew a lot of 1 gallon batches. Mainly because it allows for a lot of experimenting and tweaking recipes to perfect them to my liking. It also allows me to improve on my overall brew process so make it more efficient.

So I wanted a small RIMS setup for all grain brews and here is what I came up with for about $30, all parts found at a Big Box.

In the pictures shown below:

• (1) 1" Coupler (slip x threaded)
• (2) 1" x 1/2" Tee (slip x threaded 1/2")
• (1) 1" x 1/2" Bushing (slip x 1/2" threaded)
• (2) 1/2" x 1/2" Hose Barbs (nylon)
• (2) 2" lengths of 1"PVC
• (1) 1,500 Watt, 120 Volt 1" Threaded Heating Element
• (1) 1" x 10" piece of foam PVC insultation
• (6) Black Tie Wraps
• (1) 1 1/4" PVC Cap

The Heat stick threads into the coupler, the 2" PVC sections join the (2) 1" Tees together. The Nylon hose barbs thread into the 1/2" part of the Tee. The 1" x 1/2" bushing slips into the top of the Tee for the Temp probe.



I used the 1 1/4" PVC Cap to cover and seal the heat stick wiring terminals. I had some food grade RTV silicon left over to make it water tight.



For the wiring I used a 2' section of 14/3 power cord with a 15A plug. I had some decorative heat shrink material left over from my Kal style eKeggle build so used that to cover the plain black rubber power cord.





I plan on using a Johnson Controller and a SHURflo 1GPM Mag Pump. I will update once I incorporate them into this mini build.

is pvc safe at that temperature?

great idea, but I would think a metal enclosure might be safer.

I think SCH 40 PVC is only rated to 140 F at some specific PSI so there is a good chance it will be a complete failure. Most of these materials I already had so the $15 or so is worth the experiment.

The only concern would be the proximity of the element to the interior walls of the PVC. I am not concerned about the 150 - 160 F liquid that will run through it as I know PVC can handle up to 180 F in low (below 10PSI) pressure environments.

I plan on posting updates of the trials once I get the pump connected and controller rigged.

I made a very similar one a couple of years ago but did not use it for the same reasons as stated above. I bought a stainless RIMS tube.

You made it but never tested it?

bellinmi88 said:

You made it but never tested it?

Click to expand...

That is correct. I started reading about the temp rating of PVC and then never used it. I was afraid that something may leach into the product. Like you, I also had the parts just laying around, so it was an easy project. I still have it laying in my brewing cart.

I mold Plastics for a living and PVC "Polyvinyl chloride" Is very dangerous when over heated. In a molten state it needs to keep moving or it can produce very deadly fumes. I my self would not put a heat source that close to it.

Then it sounds like this experiment may be a very short lived one if I can't keep the temp below PVCs melting point.

I my self will not use any PVC near any heat... But I have also been knocked out from Fumes from PVC and acetal mixing so I am very anti PVC.

I've heard way too many horror stories about people using PVC on hbt to even consider using a PVC rims tube. If you have any issues with clogging or compaction that results in the rims tube super-heating you basically have a major meltdown on your hands and toxic fumes. Even below 180F I have a feeling the plastic will get really soft and more than likely leak or warp. Just my 2 cents ..PS: I built a SS Rims Tube controlled by a BCS.

nanoMash Tun (2 gallon) for $12...

Do not use that rims tube!! I made a wood steamer out of PVC that was about 8 feet long and it bent like a banana with just a little steam.. I can only imagine what would happen with a heating element enclosed in it. Even as an experiment I dont think that is a safe idea. Liquid + electricity+ melting plastic is a trifecta of bad ideas.