CO2 Manifold, what do you use?

I constructed a manifold out of pvc and barb fittings for all the tubing, and I don't like it.

I think it leaks, but I'm not too excited about reconstructing a new one... So I'm here looking for what other people use (with good results).

In retrospect I wish I would have ordered compression fittings for my stainless check ball valves instead of barbies.

Should I scrap the whole thing and start over, or is it worth attempting to fix?




You can see a picture of the manifold in the back... only picture I have of it at work...

Pretty sure you can buy cheap manifolds at harbor freight..

Ya, PVC pipe is not recommended for air pressure. Are those HF air compressor regulators you're using as secondaries?

lol they are, they were cheap so I thought I'd give them a try.


PVC is rated up to 200psi for fluid pressure so I didn't see any issue...

RegionalChaos said:

Pretty sure you can buy cheap manifolds at harbor freight..

Click to expand...

Are you referring to the blue aluminum compressed air type manifolds?

I think the ports on those were too close together for what I wanted. I wanted to sub-regulate each line, so I could have different pressures with a higher pressure header feeding them all.

I think it leaks, but I'm not too excited about reconstructing a new one... So I'm here looking for what other people use (with good results).

Click to expand...

My homemade manifolds are all made out of Delrin® with very good results.
The QD are 1/8" CPC type from US Plastics.




Cheers,
ClaudiusB

Where do you get your delrin? I am just daisy chaining Tee fittings currently. they obviously all run at the same pressure. I run 2 regulators off the tank then then split the output. It has obvious drawbacks since there are no one-way valves keeping bugs or other contamination from being passed between kegs. (most don't like living in CO2 but it is a risk.) I also can't turn off one outlet to service a CO2 connector etc. But you can't beat the price at $.39 per outlet.

I use this from harbor freight.

http://images.harborfreight.com/cpi/photos/96300-96399/96398.gif

If you want to use tee's etc., use some black iron.

Copper stubs connect the regs, and I used all PC fittings for tubing. Had lots of leaks until I spent the time to properly tape the threaded joints. Since then - all good.

IXVolt said:

PVC is rated up to 200psi for fluid pressure so I didn't see any issue...

Click to expand...

The issue is that CO2 is compressible, and will expand throwing chunks into your skull if she blows. Water doesn't do that because it isn't compressed.

I agree with rdwhahb, you don't want to use PVC for the manifold. PVC tends to get brittle over time. If you are trying to regulate pressure to each line individually you need secondary regulators like Jester posted, those inline things you got at HF will slow the flow but not actually regulate pressure, unless I'm missing something. Being made for air compressors it is likely that they have a slow leak, it's not a big deal on comp air. Those air QD's seem to intermittently leak a lot, too.
The bottom line is, you don't want to skimp here. Co2 is expensive per lb (leaks) and it can be deadly (pressure). It looks like you took the time to build a nice keezer, I would follow through and buy or make a manifold with better material or invest in a bank of secondaries if you want that much control. You did good with the stainless check ball valves, barbs are fine, you can always go FFL on the keg side of you want flexibility of keg connections.

Where do you get your delrin?

Click to expand...

Local plastic supplier, also available from McMaster.

I am just daisy chaining Tee fittings currently. they obviously all run at the same pressure. I run 2 regulators off the tank then then split the output. It has obvious drawbacks since there are no one-way valves keeping bugs or other contamination from being passed between kegs

Click to expand...

I run all my tanks at the same pressure and use the cheep check valves from US Plastic (not the greatest).


Cheers,
ClaudiusB

Ok, you realize that now you have to explain the "Level Sense" to us so we can drool over it and try in vain to replicate it, right?

Mine's still a work in progress still need to get a few check valves and guages.

RDWHAHB said:

The issue is that CO2 is compressible, and will expand throwing chunks into your skull if she blows. Water doesn't do that because it isn't compressed.

Click to expand...

Yes I realize that, which is why I stated that the PVC was "fluid" rated.

The CO2 supplied to the manifold was regulated (at the tank) to approximately 30 psi, and I'm not compressing it. I wasn't anywhere near the stress point of the PVC.

That being said, I don't think PVC is the best material to use by a long shot, but I thought it would work better than that.

Regarding the HF regulator
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=36797

They aren't working quite as well as I had hoped, I think they require slighting more pressure on the supply side to function well in the low range. I'll probably have to find a better regulator and break it into 2 or 3 banks of supply gas....

Grimtas said:

Mine's still a work in progress still need to get a few check valves and guages.

Click to expand...

What did you pay for each of those regulators?

A Whopping $0.00 Got them from the spare parts boxes at work. The Facilities Manager didn't care. I have 8 spares as well.

I am unfamiliar with "fluid rated" pvc. How is it different?

At 30 psi it is compressed. It may be below the max. working pressure, but what happens when it gets knocked with a full corny? It's not the end of the worlsd, but I think 30psi could still launch some stuff.

Grimtas said:

A Whopping $0.00 Got them from the spare parts boxes at work. The Facilities Manager didn't care. I have 8 spares as well.

Click to expand...

So, how much do you want for two of those spares shipped?!

Regarding the HF regulator
http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=36797

They aren't working quite as well as I had hoped, I think they require slighting more pressure on the supply side to function well in the low range. I'll probably have to find a better regulator and break it into 2 or 3 banks of supply gas....

Click to expand...

The Harborfreight regulator you posted is just a flow control with a pressure gage.

Cheers,
ClaudiusB

Maybe something like this would work for you
http://www.chicompany.net/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=20&products_id=477

Grimtas said:

A Whopping $0.00 Got them from the spare parts boxes at work. The Facilities Manager didn't care. I have 8 spares as well.

Click to expand...

I'd be happy to take a couple off your hands for you. How much would like for them?

Sorry guys the spares are already spoken for another project.

Ok, you realize that now you have to explain the "Level Sense" to us so we can drool over it and try in vain to replicate it, right?

Click to expand...

Brewing Clamper
its a simple float switch with magnets and the sensing part (Reed switch) is inside the stainless tube.
This device can only sense one level with minor adjustment.
It turns on when 3-4 liters are left.

Float with two magnets


Reed switch closes when the magnets get withing range



Inside view


Electrical connectors


Cheers,
ClaudiusB

Dude, kick-ass!