Beer and CO2 Line Length Questions

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I recently bought a kegerator so am fairly new to this. It was used, but I ended up buying a new regulator, coupler and lines because I wasn't happy with the cheap regulator that came with it.

My question is, and I have searched all over the web but cannot find a good, clear answer, does the length of my CO2 line matter?

I am having some foam issues, we have gone through 2 kegs, but in order to get it to function properly we have to turn the CO2 on and off as we are using it. I have it set between 10 - 12 PSI for a Bud Light Keg. The new CO2 line I bought is about 6 feet long. As I said, when we turn the CO2 on and off as we are pouring, we can get it to function, but I know it isn't right. So I have determined it is either the regulator or the lines going into the keg, and since the regulator is brand new, I have to believe it is the length of the line? Would cutting the line in half possibly solve the problem? Any input would be greatly appreciated.
 
How long is your beverage line and what inner diameter? It's the length and diameter of your beverage line, not gas line, that matters. Depending on your set up and desired PSI, it typically takes 5 to 10 feet of 3/16" ID beverage line to equalize. Check out the link below for more information sorry if the link isn't clickable, I sent this from my phone.

http://www.google.com/m/url?ei=bJAI...YQFjAA&usg=AFQjCNGtF6OwAz0LrNM73dUHlYjjQCzDjA
 
I recently bought a kegerator so am fairly new to this. It was used, but I ended up buying a new regulator, coupler and lines because I wasn't happy with the cheap regulator that came with it.

My question is, and I have searched all over the web but cannot find a good, clear answer, does the length of my CO2 line matter?

I am having some foam issues, we have gone through 2 kegs, but in order to get it to function properly we have to turn the CO2 on and off as we are using it. I have it set between 10 - 12 PSI for a Bud Light Keg. The new CO2 line I bought is about 6 feet long. As I said, when we turn the CO2 on and off as we are pouring, we can get it to function, but I know it isn't right. So I have determined it is either the regulator or the lines going into the keg, and since the regulator is brand new, I have to believe it is the length of the line? Would cutting the line in half possibly solve the problem? Any input would be greatly appreciated.

The length of your CO2 lines does not matter at all. I suppose if they were insanely long at a low pressure you could see some slow pouring, but not in our application.

What does matter is:

temperature of the beer AND the beer lines
Pressure
Pressure drop through the serving lines.

At 10-12 PSI you should have the kegerator at 38-40 degrees, and have 6-8 feet of 3/16 ID serving line.

If all this is where you have it, the keg may be overpressurized from the brewer. Try turning off the gas at the tank, and pulling the pressure relief ring on the keg coupler a few times over a few hours, letting all the pressure out each time, then reconnect and you should have less foam
 
i'd try setting the pressure to 4 or 6psi, vent the keg a few times and let it settle, then try again. you can up the pressure little by little until you get the desired carbination. i think 10-12 works for homebrew but is a little too high for a commercial keg.
 
Thank you for all the responses. Beverage line is about 5 feet long and temp is about 38 degrees. I have tried the pressure release and everything else I could think of, but I still have to leave CO2 off for most of the pouring and then give it a quick "jolt" and turn it on when the pressure runs out.
 
Bud light is carbonated fairly high, your foaming problems are due to co2 breaking out of suspension because of low psi. You need to find the temp of the beer then you can adjust the pressure accordingly. Bud is cartbonated at 2.6, if the beer is at 42f for example the reg needs to be set at 15psi, anything less and the co2 will come out and cause foaming. Co2 line length is irrelevant.

Serving at low pressures and fiddling with turning the co2 on and off will only exacerbate the problem.
_
 
Also try to cool your draft tower. If the line in the tower is warm and the beer comming up is cold, it can cause foaming. I've seen people use case fans and the like to blow cold air up there.
 
I had a commercial kegerator along with my homebrew one and had no issues when I followed this timeline with commercial kegs similar to Bud Light. Maybe it will work for you.

1. Make sure the keg doesnt jostle when you drive it from the store.

2. Get it in the kegerator and let it sit for a minimum of 1-2 hours untapped. Really a full 24 hours is best, especially if it was jostling around in your car from the store.

3. Tap the keg with the regulator valve turned on (and at around 12 PSI) and connect the keg. Then turn the regulator valve so there is no co2 running. Purge the keg using the release valve until it is empty of pressure. This is key.

4. Open the tap. The first pour will be foamy ( the line are warm, they don't have liquid in them ect). Close the tap, dispose of foam and the rest of your pours should be better.

Like I said, this is just how I did it and it worked for me. Hope this helps.
 

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