Keezer Temperature Issues

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Kord78

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Morning all!

So I am so close to being done with my keezer, but I ran into a problem.

So last night I hooked up my Ranco to the keezer. My wiring looks like this (see attached diagram). Once complete I set the Ranco to 39 degrees, cooling, with a 1 degree difference (thinking about changing this to 3 or so). To verify I threw in my mash thermometer, shut the lid and let here go. In 3 hours she had reached temp and was holding. Sweet. So this morning I go out to check and it is at 67 degrees.....even though it is set at 39. Did my Ranco fry? It is warm to the touch (which it shoud be I assume), but not doing what it is supposed to - i.e. telling the freezer to turn on.

What happened?? I am so disappointed :(

Ranco Wiring Diagram.jpg
 
Brand-i-new. I did just go through the pamphlet again - I'm one of those who has a tough time with reading directions sometimes - and it mentioned the error codes. So I went and checked and I am getting an E1 error code when I push the up or down keys.

In the pamphlet it says "To correct: If the E1 message appears even when no keys are being pressed, replace control."

So I assume that even in my case, where arrows need to be pushed, that I need to "replace control"? Which to me means......I dunno and ma calling my LHBS.

So did somethign fry? Was it my power in that caused the problem? Argh. There goes gettign my Robust Cocnut Porter in there :(
 
Update:

So I pulled the Ranco Thermostat out of the loop yesterday and just wire capped the two wires together - so now it is just a standard 3 prong wire again. Plugged it in and what do you know, it is still only turning on for 20 seconds or so. The condenser is getting warm, but it won't stay on.

So I took a look at the spec.s on the guts of this thing and found that there are only 3 parts in this thing - 1) condenser, 2) controller, 3) capcitor! That's it!! So, I am guesing that the controller might have gotten fried because I set the differential on the Ranco ETC Controller to 1 degree. I might have short cycled the thing to death :( I ordered a new controller and it should be here next week.

I think I am going to empty out some ice pack gel into a container and put the temp probe in that in order to get better and more constant temperatures. I read that in another thread somewhere.

I'll post again to let anyone following this thread know how it went.
 
Update 2:

Replaced controller on chest freezer - no dice. Still just clicks on, hums for 20 seconds, and lound snaps off. So, working my way down the line here:

- Ranco Controller: Good (Oh, that "E1" when you push the up or down arrows is
apparently normal - chatted with a helpful gentlemen from
Advanced Brewing Technology Inc, and his did that as well.) Cut it
out of the loop and it was still doing it.
- Freezer Controller: Good (Replaced unit and it still has the same issue)
- Freezer Capacitor: Next in line to be replaced as it is the cheapest part.
- Freezer Thermostat: This costs 50$. I would prefer not to have to replace this and will
attempt to bypass it first.

I'll keep you all posted.
 
OK, so here is the final post on this matter:

Building a keezer is all fun and games and what-not, but one must note that there are some caviats to it with the primary one being - do not test run the fridge with nothign in it and the temp probe just hanging in mid air. This leads to short cycling (the motor turning on and off too quickly and frequently) which then leads to a blown compressor :(
Lesson learned, lesson remembered....just an expensive lesson to learn is all :( :(
 
OK, so here is the final post on this matter:

Building a keezer is all fun and games and what-not, but one must note that there are some caviats to it with the primary one being - do not test run the fridge with nothign in it and the temp probe just hanging in mid air. This leads to short cycling (the motor turning on and off too quickly and frequently) which then leads to a blown compressor :(
Lesson learned, lesson remembered....just an expensive lesson to learn is all :( :(

The compressor failed because the differential was set to tight at 1*F and either you don't have a anti-short cycle delay parameter on the controller or you did not have it set high enough.

The probe dangling in the air had nothing to do with the failure and the same for running the fridge with nothing in it. Neither of those factors are relevant.

FWIW, I've been running my converted freezer with the probe dangling in the air. I have the differential set to 6 degrees and the anti-short cycle delay set to 5 minutes. I've run it for days at a time with nothing in it at all and no harm came to the compressor.

My only questions are why did you have the differential set so tight at 1*F and why didn't the anti-short cycle delay operate? The Asd would likely have saved the compressor and a lot of grief too. Oh well, there's always next time.
 
The probe dangling in the air had nothing to do with the failure and the same for running the fridge with nothing in it. Neither of those factors are relevant
Both of these factors had everything to do with the compressor failing.
There are ways to have the probe in air and not fry the compressor, but setting a 1F differential and running the freezer empty are two ways to guarantee it, especially with a controller lacking Anti Short Cycle Delay (ASD) like some (all?) Rancos.

To mitigate not having ASD, the probe can be placed in/on a container with some thermal mass, and some passive thermal mass can be added to the freezer. Both will help prevent short cycling and reduce cycle frequency, exactly as the OP stated. With the probe in/on a large enough thermal mass, the temp diff can even be left at 1F.

If the probe is placed in air, only a controller with ASD protection should be used. Some probes with very slow response, like the old copper tube thermocouple types used in analog controllers, may work in air, but only because they have much more built in thermal mass than the resistive sensors used with digital controllers. The analog controllers usually have fixed temp diffs of ~5F also, so placing the probe in air is sometimes the only way to achieve a temp variance of less than 5F for the contents of the freezer.
 
Both of these factors had everything to do with the compressor failing.
There are ways to have the probe in air and not fry the compressor, but setting a 1F differential and running the freezer empty are two ways to guarantee it, especially with a controller lacking Anti Short Cycle Delay (ASD) like some (all?) Rancos.

To mitigate not having ASD, the probe can be placed in/on a container with some thermal mass, and some passive thermal mass can be added to the freezer. Both will help prevent short cycling and reduce cycle frequency, exactly as the OP stated. With the probe in/on a large enough thermal mass, the temp diff can even be left at 1F.

If the probe is placed in air, only a controller with ASD protection should be used. Some probes with very slow response, like the old copper tube thermocouple types used in analog controllers, may work in air, but only because they have much more built in thermal mass than the resistive sensors used with digital controllers. The analog controllers usually have fixed temp diffs of ~5F also, so placing the probe in air is sometimes the only way to achieve a temp variance of less than 5F for the contents of the freezer.

More B.S. from you once again just as expected. You only need to increase the differential somewhat to avoid frying the compressor. Let me ask you this. How many refrigerators or freezers are manufactured with a probe placed in a container of liquid as you suggest? Why do you suppose this is the case? Additionally, the analog controllers typically have a pre-set differential of three degrees which should be plenty enough to avoid short cycling the compressor. The Asd feature should only come into play if there is an interruption of the power supply for some reason. The response time for the old school analog controllers is plenty fast enough for this application.

The solution is to increase the differential to 3*F or more and if your controller has an anti-short cycle delay, set it to the max. There is absolutely no need to resort to putting hte probe in a container of anything at all. Your freezer was not set up that way from the factory for a reason and the same for your refrigerator. FWIW, with my converted freezer I have the probe in the air and the differential set to 10*F. It's operating perfectly this way for a very long time and I see no reason why it would not be the same for anyone else.
 
Interesting discusion, will take note for when I get a chest freezer.

FWIW the hospital I work at has temp probes that are surounded by a green jell of some kind. The jell (and temp sensor) are contained in what looks to be identical to white labs yeast vials.

Johnson Controlls services our facility (have seen thier vans at our loading/recieving dock) and assume they set up our cooler equipment. These are in all refrigerators in the hospital for everything from drugs to lab specimen refrigerators.

I will try to snap a photo of one next week.
 
More B.S. from you once again just as expected.

And as usual from you, more dubious anecdotal information and conjecture based on casual observation, with little to no science or understanding to back it up. I don't write these responses for your sake. I write them so that other users have another opinion to consider. I know what conclusion most will come to.

Exactly what part of my post was B.S.? It is entirely correct. If you don't understand part of it, I can explain further. It is your earlier post, and this more recent one for that matter, that are full of B.S.
Short cycling can kill a compressor in hours, and frequent cycling will reduce the lifespan of the compressor proportional to the cycle frequency. Placing the probe in/on a container of liquid (or similar) will both mitigate short cycling if you controller does not have ASD, and reduce cycle frequency while still maintaining acceptable temp variance. This is especially true with a digital controller.
You only need to increase the differential somewhat to avoid frying the compressor.
Somewhat? How much would that be exactly? Just a scooch more than a pinch? Placing the probe in/on even a 1 Oz. container would do more for ASD and cycling reduction than 3F of extra differential with the probe in air as you suggested.

Let me ask you this. How many refrigerators or freezers are manufactured with a probe placed in a container of liquid as you suggest? Why do you suppose this is the case?
What do you think is going on inside the typical "bulb and capillary" thermocouple probe used by analog controllers and most fridges? The thermocouple IS a container of liquid. Most refrigerators have analog controllers with slow response thermocouple probes and high temp diffs, and even then, the probes are usually placed where they won't be impacted by temp swings caused by door openings (and sometimes the cooling coils as well).
Additionally, the analog controllers typically have a pre-set differential of three degrees which should be plenty enough to avoid short cycling the compressor.
I stated that analog controllers have diffs of ~5F (~means approximately BTW), but it is not the ~5F differential that is the primary factor that emulates ASD in this case, it is the slow response thermocouple type probe. With a temp diff of 5F and a fast response resistive probe, there is still the real possibility of short cycling each time the door is opened. As I stated previously (and in the prior post), the slow response of the thermocouple type probe combined with the ~5F diff prevents short cycling during initial runs, new mass additions, and door openings. With The cycling frequency can still be improved (reduced) by further damping the probe, and thereby extending the life of the compressor by giving up a little bit of temp variance.

The Asd feature should only come into play if there is an interruption of the power supply for some reason.
Most fridge/freezers have some ASD built in, but it typically ONLY works in power outage scenarios and not for door opening scenarios. This is especially true for chest freezers which all seem to use the PTC start relay as the ASD. That is them just being cheap, and relying on most refrigerators being used in a NORMAL fashion. Normal does not include using a digital temp controller with a fast response probe hanging in air.

Depending on the type of digital (resistive) probe that is placed hanging in the air, ASD will come into play any time the door is opened for even one minute (or less), and the compressor has shut off within the ASD period. Many resistive probes have very low thermal mass and a correspondingly fast response time. The temp of a probe hanging in air can rise by 10F or more in less than a minute when the door is opened.
The response time for the old school analog controllers is plenty fast enough for this application.
I never said they weren't, and even suggested damping (slowing) the response of the digital resistive probes, as did the OP, by using thermal mass (liquid) to mimic an old school analog thermocouple.

The solution is to increase the differential to 3*F or more and if your controller has an anti-short cycle delay, set it to the max.
There are many solutions to the problem, with differing upsides and downsides. With the OP's ASD-less Ranco, simply setting the temp diff to 3F, and leaving the probe in the air will result in a second fried compressor- guaranteed.

There is absolutely no need to resort to putting hte probe in a container of anything at all. Your freezer was not set up that way from the factory for a reason and the same for your refrigerator.
"no need to resort" That is a strange choice of words. One would think I told him that he had to place the probe in a gallon container filled with unicorn tears. How hard is it to duct tape the probe to a bottle of beer or your fermenter? Also, most fridges do not come from the factory with fast response resistive probes hanging unprotected inside the unit, do they? The ones that do come with digital controllers generally damp or shield the probe, and also have circuitry or code to prevent short and/or frequent cycling.

FWIW, with my converted freezer I have the probe in the air and the differential set to 10*F.
With your diff set to 10F and the probe in air, unless you have it in a very stable ambient environment like a basement, you beer temps can vary 10F or even slightly more given the right ambient temp swings. Or, you could just tape the probe to a container, reduce the temp diff, have stable temps without fiddling, and reduce compressor cycling at the same time.

It's operating perfectly this way for a very long time and I see no reason why it would not be the same for anyone else.
Again, I have given the reasons why it may not work for everyone else, while you keep responding with the anecdotal "it works for me" logic. The OP obviously fried a compressor with his probe "in air". In his case, I believe it would have fried even if the temp diff had been set to 5F. He started it at room temp with no thermal mass.

Everyone has different conditions and constraints so what works for you may not work for others. If you understand what factors are in play, it is possible create a strategy that fits the particular situation, and not just spew out how your way works for you so it must be right (for everyone).

P.S. Please bring up how your method of using air temp to control fermentation temps works better than placing the probe on the vessel; but don't forget to mention that you have to check the ferm temps multiple times a day, and adjust the air temp each time to compensate for the varying ferm temps during the exothermic phase.
 
P.S. Please bring up how your method of using air temp to control fermentation temps works better than placing the probe on the vessel; but don't forget to mention that you have to check the ferm temps multiple times a day, and adjust the air temp each time to compensate for the varying ferm temps during the exothermic phase.

How is that fermentation control set-up working out? IIRC, you were supposed to take a high/low measurement in the fermenting wort and get back to me with the results.

So, any results?

Joe

P.S. - Sometimes, I wake up from my sleep in a cold sweat, and my wife tells me I was mumbling the phrase "air stream".
 
P.S. Please bring up how your method of using air temp to control fermentation temps works better than placing the probe on the vessel; but don't forget to mention that you have to check the ferm temps multiple times a day, and adjust the air temp each time to compensate for the varying ferm temps during the exothermic phase.

How is that fermentation control set-up working out? IIRC, you were supposed to take a high/low measurement in the fermenting wort and get back to me with the results.

So, any results?

Joe

P.S. - Sometimes, I wake up from my sleep in a cold sweat, and my wife tells me I was mumbling the phrase "air stream".

Just to clarify, the experiment and results are expected from Catt22.
I don't expect any, however. As soon as logic, science, and the laws of thermodynamics enter the discussion, Catt22 usually bows out.

Plus, his experimental results will be highly dependent on how many times the set point for the internal ambient air is adjusted to compensate for the varying heat of fermentation. This effectively adds another controller, a human (Catt22), into the control loop. So, results will vary depending on how close the tester's cot is to the ferm chamber, should someone want to repeat the test.
 
Well, that went from no activity to blow out real quick!!

So I had initially planned to remove the inner goo from one of those liquid ice pack thingies and put that in like a peanut butter jar and immerse the probe in that. I have since modified my thought process into cutting a piece of styrofoam and wollering (yep....I said it - wollering :) ) a long cavity so that the probe fits snugly in. I then plan on strapping that to one of the lower portions of a keg. I figure that this way I'll be pulling the temp of the liquid rather than the ambient temp. Both ways would work, one is just less messy :)

Update: I am redesigning how the collar attaches to the fridge. Originally I had the hinge at the bottom of the collar. This caused the needed gap off the wall to be like 10" and put undue strain on the hinges. I am by now means a small fellow and as such will be adjusting things so that the collar is fixed to the cooler body and the lid opens as usual - I'll probably mount the secondary regs on the door though, the hinges should be able to handle that wieght. I just need to wait on a friend who will epoxy/fiberglass the collar to the body (NO SCREWS!!!). We are also testing epoxy/fiberglassing some stryofoam, seeing if the heat produced during the hardening chemical reaction will melt the foam. IF it doesn't, then I am going to epoxy the foam on the panel where the taps punch through. That'll give 'em somethign solid to clamp to.

So, that is where I stand now. In the downtime of waiting on the friend I am finishing my fermentation chamber and my yeast propegation fridge. I love me some tinkering :)
 
right or wrong I have placed my digital temp controler probe in a 16 oz bottle of water in my keezer, I didnt see any need for a thermo gel but I am a total newb so I could be breaking things as we chat :tank:
 
I have since modified my thought process into cutting a piece of styrofoam and wollering (yep....I said it - wollering :) ) a long cavity so that the probe fits snugly in. I then plan on strapping that to one of the lower portions of a keg. I figure that this way I'll be pulling the temp of the liquid rather than the ambient temp. Both ways would work, one is just less messy :)

I just need to wait on a friend who will epoxy/fiberglass the collar to the body (NO SCREWS!!!). We are also testing epoxy/fiberglassing some stryofoam, seeing if the heat produced during the hardening chemical reaction will melt the foam. IF it doesn't, then I am going to epoxy the foam on the panel where the taps punch through. That'll give 'em somethign solid to clamp to.

If you have room for a jug somewhere in the keezer, you could tape the probe to it and then insulate it a bit. A growler, or even a 2 liter soda bottle, is plenty big enough. This would save you from having to shift the probe when you change/clean kegs. For finished beer, there is no need to have the probe directly on the beer, only on something of sufficient thermal mass. Fermenting beer is another story.

RE: the keezer lid. Have you seen the build threads that used Liquid Nails? I think it is popular for keezer builds with either fixed or hinged collars. It has some elastic properties that help it survive temperature expansions/contractions. For fixed collars, the collar can also be reinforced using the original mounting holes for the hinges.

RE: shanks & faucets. I remember reading that guys were getting the best results from having large(ish) holes in the insulation where the shanks pass through the wood collar. The theory is that more of the shank is exposed to the cooling air of the keezer, keeping the shank and the faucet cooler. The faucet heats the shank from the outside in, and insulating the shank will only enhance the effect.
 
right or wrong I have placed my digital temp controler probe in a 16 oz bottle of water in my keezer, I didnt see any need for a thermo gel but I am a total newb so I could be breaking things as we chat :tank:

Yes, you are breaking things by putting your probe in water. You must use unicorn tears, and only the happy kind.

In all seriousness- if you are worried about the waterproofiness of the probe, comparable performance can be had by taping the probe to the outside of the container, then insulating it.
 

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