bgraham
Active Member
I've learned a lot about CO2 tanks over the last couple years of brewing and jsut recently when upgrading my setup. Thought I'd share so anyone looking to buy a CO2 tank or upgrade to a bigger one has some things to think about so hopefully you don't learn them the hard and expensive way as well.
1.) Aluminum is actaully cheaper than steel IMO. I had always thought steel kegs were cheaper and since I don't really care about the weight, I have always been inclined to buy steel kegs (and they are cheaper up front). However, in the long run it doesn't seem that they're cheaper. Every few refills with a steel keg you need to get a new valve because the threading essentially strips out so every few refills you're lookin at another 15 dollars or so.
2.) Bigger is better. My old 5 pounder cost 14 dollars to fill up... my new 20 pounder is 19 dollars to fill up. Most welding shops and refill stations are like this. $56 for 20 lbs or $19? You pick.
3.) If you get a sweet deal on a steel tank... Make sure it doesn't have a rubber boot on the bottom. When the tank inevitably needs to be hydrostatically tested (every 5 years, at least in Ohio) they have to chisel that boot off 9 times out of 10 to get it in the machine and you'll end up with a wierdo bottle that won't stand up on its own.
4.) When buying a used tank take into consideration the last hydrostatic testing date and factor that into the price. Testing is usually around 15 dollars or so. Sometimes buying a used tank isn't as lucrative as you might think.
Look for good deals on tanks on craigslist, you can often find great deals there. I wouldn't suggest buying tanks online unless it's a great deal and you have some kind of free shipping. Also, call welding shops and suppliers, they'll often sell you a new or used tank, with a fresh test date, full, for less than you can piece one together... and best of all, no hassle or mistakes.
1.) Aluminum is actaully cheaper than steel IMO. I had always thought steel kegs were cheaper and since I don't really care about the weight, I have always been inclined to buy steel kegs (and they are cheaper up front). However, in the long run it doesn't seem that they're cheaper. Every few refills with a steel keg you need to get a new valve because the threading essentially strips out so every few refills you're lookin at another 15 dollars or so.
2.) Bigger is better. My old 5 pounder cost 14 dollars to fill up... my new 20 pounder is 19 dollars to fill up. Most welding shops and refill stations are like this. $56 for 20 lbs or $19? You pick.
3.) If you get a sweet deal on a steel tank... Make sure it doesn't have a rubber boot on the bottom. When the tank inevitably needs to be hydrostatically tested (every 5 years, at least in Ohio) they have to chisel that boot off 9 times out of 10 to get it in the machine and you'll end up with a wierdo bottle that won't stand up on its own.
4.) When buying a used tank take into consideration the last hydrostatic testing date and factor that into the price. Testing is usually around 15 dollars or so. Sometimes buying a used tank isn't as lucrative as you might think.
Look for good deals on tanks on craigslist, you can often find great deals there. I wouldn't suggest buying tanks online unless it's a great deal and you have some kind of free shipping. Also, call welding shops and suppliers, they'll often sell you a new or used tank, with a fresh test date, full, for less than you can piece one together... and best of all, no hassle or mistakes.
I've never heard of anyone needing to get a tank re-threaded before.
