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Built this guy last week. Love having a dedicated stand now. Still need to plum it with my Chugger but otherwise it works very well with my 3 vessel setup.

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Schlomo said:
Built this guy last week. Love having a dedicated stand now. Still need to plum it with my Chugger but otherwise it works very well with my 3 vessel setup.
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are you a Howell native? i used to live in Brighton/Pinkney when i was younger. nice Stand! #GoBlue
 
AGBrewer said:
sophiawinford.jpg

Sorry I don't know how to resize
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I'm just using the picture, as it's the first one I saw that illustrates my question. When the temp gauges are that high up, and you heat you mash water, isn't the water level below the probe? Mine is lower than this, and if I have a volume of water under about 4.5gal, it doesn't quite get up to the probe. Makes doing smaller beers a bit of a hassle.

Quite possibly, I'm missing something obvious.

Cheers!
 
GeorgeH2013 said:
I'm just using the picture, as it's the first one I saw that illustrates my question. When the temp gauges are that high up, and you heat you mash water, isn't the water level below the probe? Mine is lower than this, and if I have a volume of water under about 4.5gal, it doesn't quite get up to the probe. Makes doing smaller beers a bit of a hassle.

Quite possibly, I'm missing something obvious.

Cheers!
Click to expand...

You're not missing anything, most people try to keep their thermometers mounted low so that they can occasionally do small batches. If you only ever brew one size, then you can just put the probe wherever you want.
 
BeardedBrews said:
You're not missing anything, most people try to keep their thermometers mounted low so that they can occasionally do small batches. If you only ever brew one size, then you can just put the probe wherever you want.
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on the other hand, it's only warm water. Once you hit your desired temp, drain off what you don't need. I have a 15 gal Blichman V1, and have the same issue. but with a 5 gal batch, if I have to dump any water, you're talking a gal or gal and a half.
 
Being an ex-salami maker, and due to an over zealous Dr., I'll be re-purposing my sausage table to use as a brewing table. Don't laugh. My salami curing chamber was repurposed and now hold a fast Fermentor for its price plus $15 for the controller.



I'll cut the legs down 6" and replace the castors. The motor driven coupler will adapt to my MM3 and the mill will be removable when not in use. It's a little large but the space underneath leaves enough room for a 5 gal bucket to catch the grain and store a lot of odds & ends. It'll still need a few mods but has power on either end and it's already in my garage. I'll remove the spice racks as I think they'd be better suited for anothe purpose as well.
 
Other than maybe adding another shelf above the propane tanks to hold my tablet and some hooks for tubing I think I am close to finished! Propane tanks need a safety strap yet so I don't roll one off if I bump something.

IMG_20160604_1715208131_zpsfuspvymt.jpg
 
Kegger320 said:
Well, here's to all of the ideas I stole from you guys to get this done. I works great, you could do this setup with one pump but I like having a backup just in case. Cheers to you guys!
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Great looking stand. Do those wind shields have any affect on the burner flame? looks like they pretty much close off half the air on the front side of the keggles.

How are you doing the pilot light?

You remember where you picked up those casters and what the part number was?
 
rekoob said:
Great looking stand. Do those wind shields have any affect on the burner flame? looks like they pretty much close off half the air on the front side of the keggles.

How are you doing the pilot light?

You remember where you picked up those casters and what the part number was?
Click to expand...
The heat shields in the front are awesome and don't restrict the airflow at all. The pilot lights are just a straight shot off the gas line with 1/4" copper tubing and a homemade orifice. You have to be there at all times with this setup to monitor the pilot lights. You can hear the gas valves click on and if you don't see flames you know your pilot light went out. 99% of the time they work like a charm. I've only had one brew when I had a hard time keeping them lit and that was the first time I brewed after changing over to natural gas. I forgot to enlarge the orifice on the pilot lights.
 
This is our current HERMS-system before the upgrade. (25l/25l/36l) Currently working on rebuilding the control-box to the new system that will be of 100l capacity.

1108457689834325015_2259767048.jpg


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Dernebo said:
This is our current HERMS-system before the upgrade. (25l/25l/36l) Currently working on rebuilding the control-box to the new system that will be of 100l capacity.
Click to expand...

I think you're the first person I've seen using a PC case as a control panel. Great job!
 
Hey I grew up with the mantra, "Use it up, wear it out, make it do or do without" in the 60's and a lot of my ham gear(amateur radio for the heathens!) over the years featured recycled whatever!
 
Made this last winter/early spring for biab. Works really well. A lot of expensive lessons learned, though.

Buy bigger casters than you think.
Unistrut is easier to cut than you think.
Should have tinkered with unistrut hardware and strut orientation before buying.
Didn't think through edge details with the ss sheets. So the ss corner guards I used really broke the budget.

But, it works well and looks pretty good, so water under the bridge.View attachment ImageUploadedByHome Brew1466336736.612979.jpg
 

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