Tips on Creating a Spunding Valve - Help

I am new to Lagering. I want to try to use a corni "Ball Lock" keg to do the lagering/conditioning. I understand that this is best done with a "Spunding Valve" to relieve pressure. I have not found detailed instructions on how to make this. All I have found is the BYO sketched out discription online.I don't have that edition of the mag. and it is not online.

http://byo.com/departments/1550.html

Can anybody provide some insight on how to do this. Also if you have a picture that would help a bunch. Any other tips/tricks for a lager newbie would be great. I've done a ton of Ales but I'm ready for the next step... Just got a new refrigerator (now I can lager...Shhhh...don't tell my wife that's the plan)

If you really want to try carbing as you ferment, I suppose you could modify the keg's pressure relief by changing to a weaker spring. I think they're set to open now at like 60psi or something. You'd have to experiment by pressurizing with co2 to see where the thing opens. You could just put an airlock or blowoff tube on the gas out post.

I have a picture of mine in my photo gallery.

Can you give me some details on how you made that? What parts do I need? Are you happy with it's performance? Do you agree that this is the way to condition?

Thanks!

Well, I had one part made at a machine shop. So, you might not have that capability, but I know you can find some sort of tailpiece that ends in a 1/4" npt threads. Other than that it was really simple. You need a brass "T", a schrader valve (adjustable pressure relief valve), a pressure gauge, and of course the tailpiece part I mentioned earlier. I would suggest a wing nut style of tap connection, not the hex nut I have shown in my pictures. I say this because after I built mine I found multiple uses for the sanke tap other than pressure relieving. I would do a search for spunding valve on this forum not to mention BYO magazine and other articles on other webpages. You really don't need the adjustable relief valve, as you can read the gauge and let out pressure to desired level. It is up to you. This last batch I transfered into keg a couple days into fermentation (12 gallons in a 15.5 sanke) and have just let it sit and build pressure. I was using my spunding valve on my previous batch a couple of days earlier, but when I get back from out of town all I have to do is through it on the keg and viola!!!! I would agree that this is the way to condition due to the simplicity. My worst case scenario is that I over fermented in primary and have to add a little priming sugar to the keg (this has never happened) or force carb if it doesn't work, but like I said it hasn't happened yet. I have never had sediment issues, as after the first couple of pints the sediment makes a nice clean area to draw from. This of course is after you move to your kegerator and let sit long enough for everything to settle. Mcmaster.com has everything except the sanke tap nuts (wing or hex) and the tailpiece that I had made and you can find a stainless version of the tailpiece on some online brewshop. Hope this helps.