Bogus PIDs and SSRs?

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SpentBrains

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I had never used a PID before. so? I order a few inexpensive ones from an eBay vendor two weeks ago. While experimenting with one of them before the weekend, I found that not all of the functions I expected from reading the online manuals were supported. Noticeably, the alarm contacts were not even installed even though the firmware supported alarm functions. No programing inputs could toggle the unit from C to F. The thermocouple that came with the device shorted when manipulated and the RTD power connector was not installed either, so I was stuck with thermocouples with these models.

I complained to the vendor that they didn't disclose this shortened version PID's limitations. The seller immediately rolled over and offered a full refund, if I would only change the "negative" feedback I'd entered to a positive one and they didn't want the PIDs returned.

At first I protested and told them that they had earned their negative reputation, deciding I'd eat the lousy $40 loss thereby protecting other potential buyers. I'd just order a replacement set of higher quality and price PIDs...THEN I FOUND THIS VIDEO!!!!

[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DxEhxjvifyY[/ame]

I've spent considerable time in China wandering the vendor's stalls of several of the bigger cities, spreading both "production over runs" and "knock off" goods. I've even worn more than my share of "Brietling, TAG, IWC and Rolex" watches. So I'm not naive, (nor totally innocent) when it comes to enabling the blackmarket in consumer products. Some of the aforementioned are domestic production over runs, some are good copies, while a few were even prototypes that never made it to production. You'd swear they were the real thing. A fashion or apparel item is one thing however; how do you safeguard against bogus electrical components that you can only hope are really designed to handle a 30A circuit without a saftey compromise?!!!!!

Imagine a 30 AMP dead short in the middle of your brew due to a counterfeit SSR
 
What PID did you buy the first time around? Agree on the SSR -- just not worth the hassle with the Foteks. I had the cheap MyPin TD4s and had no issues functionality wise. I went with the Aubers the next time around simply because I hated how the MyPins secured to the panel. Those plastic pushpins were complete bull****.
 
The particular PIDs I received, were shipped from an L.A. based vendor. They were "Berme" brand. The SSRs that shipped with them are at least labeled as Taiwanese origin "Fotek" brand, just like the one being disassembled in this video, but who knows what the truth is.

As poorly as the PIDs are made I am not sure I want to even test the SSRs at 240VAC. Here's the sellers product link and identity. I'll let people know if the seller at least refunds.:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/281742740338?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK:MEBIDX:IT
 
I gotta say, I don't feel like that seller is misleading you at all on the RexC100. The unit doesn't support Fahrenheit. The ad makes no mention of it. The ad says it's setup for TC, not RTD. The manual then says any terminals not setup for use are removed. The PID issues here are your fault for not researching before you buy. I feel you left a negative review unwarranted. You bought the cheapest eBay PID and are surprised it doesn't do what you want, even though the advertisement makes no mention of those capabilities.
 
Agree with iijakii... it's on you for not researching before pulling the trigger. Also, there is a boatload of experience on this forum - people using Auber or MyPin PID's... why venture off that path? Certainly you agree the savings wasn't worth it now.

This is a common theme I see too often around here. Put some value on your own time and realize that the cheapest components do not save you money.

-BD
 
You guys are right. Except in your zeal to find my faults you're missing two points. 1) The shorting out TC and 2) The video, as I haven't even tried the SSRs yet and now I have my concerns about saftey. Far more costly consequences than me wasting my time or money (as this is a hobby for learning about beer and building a sophisticated piece of equipment after all).

But I will say this. You have to start somewhere. I wan't finding a way to get all of my questions about PIDs answered without having one in hand, or posting simple questions that I'd likely get chewed out for since I couldn't find the answers even though it's likely been discussed here before. As an example I didn't understand how power to close the SSR was supplied. Was a power supply a third component I needed to provide and the PID only acted as a switch, or did the PID have it's own power supply. Now I know. Cheap info for a lousy $17. I'm still trying to work it out with the vendor.

I'll settle for them replacing the one (of 2) faulty TCs.

Did I mention that the instructions came ONLY in Chinese?
 
why venture off that path?

Because these people did?

A
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B
B. F. Skinner
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C
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E
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F
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H
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M
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N
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O
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Z
Zora Neale Hurston
 
You are extremely defensive. Get over yourself, you buying a cheap PID doesn't make you a scientist :confused:. We agreed with you about your video and SSR issue, just saying don't buy a PID that won't do what you want, because you didn't spend 2 mins reading the specs, and then leave a bad review. And the board here has a lot of extremely helpful people, if you have a question about houw PID/SSRs work you won't get snarky responses (unless you call yourself Einstein), but a lot of helpful responses.
 
I had never used a PID before. so? I order a few inexpensive ones from an eBay vendor two weeks ago. While experimenting with one of them before the weekend, I found that not all of the functions I expected from reading the online manuals were supported. Noticeably, the alarm contacts were not even installed even though the firmware supported alarm functions. No programing inputs could toggle the unit from C to F. The thermocouple that came with the device shorted when manipulated and the RTD power connector was not installed either, so I was stuck with thermocouples with these models.

I complained to the vendor that they didn't disclose this shortened version PID's limitations. The seller immediately rolled over and offered a full refund, if I would only change the "negative" feedback I'd entered to a positive one and they didn't want the PIDs returned.

At first I protested and told them that they had earned their negative reputation, deciding I'd eat the lousy $40 loss thereby protecting other potential buyers. I'd just order a replacement set of higher quality and price PIDs...THEN I FOUND THIS VIDEO!!!!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DxEhxjvifyY

I've spent considerable time in China wandering the vendor's stalls of several of the bigger cities, spreading both "production over runs" and "knock off" goods. I've even worn more than my share of "Brietling, TAG, IWC and Rolex" watches. So I'm not naive, (nor totally innocent) when it comes to enabling the blackmarket in consumer products. Some of the aforementioned are domestic production over runs, some are good copies, while a few were even prototypes that never made it to production. You'd swear they were the real thing. A fashion or apparel item is one thing however; how do you safeguard against bogus electrical components that you can only hope are really designed to handle a 30A circuit without a saftey compromise?!!!!!

Imagine a 30 AMP dead short in the middle of your brew due to a counterfeit SSR
alphaomega already posted this video a few days ago...
 
You are extremely defensive. Get over yourself, you buying a cheap PID doesn't make you a scientist :confused:. We agreed with you about your video and SSR issue, just saying don't buy a PID that won't do what you want, because you didn't spend 2 mins reading the specs, and then leave a bad review. And the board here has a lot of extremely helpful people, if you have a question about houw PID/SSRs work you won't get snarky responses (unless you call yourself Einstein), but a lot of helpful responses.

You're kidding me right? I see people get their heads chewed off all the time for asking entry level redundant questions. I'd much rather waste $17 to learn something than endure some people's egos. I'm not defensive at all. Only because of the fact you guys agree that my negative rating was unfair, I am making a better effort to at least get the broken part fixed, before I just chuck the parts and let the negative rating stand.

When I read "why deviate from 'our' proven pathway" on a forum who's entire existence is about deviating from the well worn path of factory produced beer, it's me that shakes my head. :confused:
 
I gotta say, I don't feel like that seller is misleading you at all on the RexC100. The unit doesn't support Fahrenheit. The ad makes no mention of it. The ad says it's setup for TC, not RTD. The manual then says any terminals not setup for use are removed. The PID issues here are your fault for not researching before you buy. I feel you left a negative review unwarranted. You bought the cheapest eBay PID and are surprised it doesn't do what you want, even though the advertisement makes no mention of those capabilities.

I agree here the rex units dont support Fahrenheit...I have one they are very limited and many have to be modded to work with an ssr... they are afterall sold for like $10-20 for these reasons... If you google "rex c100" you will find all this and the limitations as well as the issue of many being sold with relay output as ssr models. In a nutshell yeah... you didnt do your homework.
 
...

When I read "why deviate from 'our' proven pathway" on a forum who's entire existence is about deviating from the well worn path of factory produced beer, it's me that shakes my head. :confused:

Deviating from known, workable paths involves risks. There is nothing wrong with taking on risk, as long as you accept that that is what you are doing. With experimentation also comes frequent failure (as the folks on your list were well aware.) Take responsibility, and own the consequences of your decisions. Don't engage in blame shifting.

Brew on :mug:
 


A reasonable post. Thanks Doug.

$17 well spent on my failure and learning experience. With a new TC, I'll brew in Celsius, without the alarms everyone else includes in their panels, lamenting my inability to upgrade to RTDs, far out in the driveway, just in case my SSRs decides to short out. At least that is until I pony up and buy reputable parts like everyone else. Nonetheless I've learned a ton here from reading and this little setback. Meanwhile, I'll try to continue to "get over myself".
 
I actually had one of the power supply capacitors in my REX PID explode which made quite the display during testing
 
A reasonable post. Thanks Doug.

$17 well spent on my failure and learning experience. With a new TC, I'll brew in Celsius, without the alarms everyone else includes in their panels, lamenting my inability to upgrade to RTDs, far out in the driveway, just in case my SSRs decides to short out. At least that is until I pony up and buy reputable parts like everyone else. Nonetheless I've learned a ton here from reading and this little setback. Meanwhile, I'll try to continue to "get over myself".

Honestly, you could forego beer or coffee for 3 days and save up enough to buy at least a TA4/TD4, if not an Auber. I've ABSOLUTELY gone with the cheapest pieces I could find most of the time (even within a dollar) but with the PID, I knew I'd want Fahrenheit and alarm outputs, so a few bucks extra there was no problem. I knew the REX models were limited in those respects, so I went with MyPins.

This thread seems to be more about arguing than understanding, though, so I don't want to interfere.
 
This thread seems to be more about arguing than understanding, though, so I don't want to interfere.

Not at interfering at all.

I have been mandatorily off from work, after some extensive surgery that may compromise my ability to return to my previous career and income. Budget for hobbies is a concern especially if I am forced to retire to long term disability.

I have been using my time off (rather than cash) and as many cobbled together junk yard parts as I can cheaply source, to build a much more advanced home-brew system than the typical entry level re-purposed cooler and turkey fryer I had been using for brewing. For instance I spent an entire day yesterday welding up a home made enclosure rather than purchasing a new or even used NEMA enclosure. Total cost? $6 worth of filler rod and shield gas and time; which I both enjoy in the shop and seem to have too much of. There is a method to my madness.

I can live without the F support, but I didn't see in the specs that RTDs wouldn't be an option, only that the package came with TCs. The video I initially posted a link to was icing on the cake (or humble pie), which I seem to be forced to eat.
 
The rex c100 I own does infact support RTD probes because thats what I used but as you may have found out now there are a few different sets of internal electronics being sold as the same model rex pid just like the scenario with the popular and highly copied STC-1000 temp controllers... the plastic enclosures on these cheap Rex knockoffs are none other than the same enclosures used in the chinese made Auber units too... there is also a 3rd option..you can buy the unbranded version of the auber pid direct from aliexpess for $25 shipped... http://www.aliexpress.com/store/pro...ature-Controller-XMT612/209587_598878204.html
I know your budgets tight..
 
Deviating from known, workable paths involves risks. There is nothing wrong with taking on risk, as long as you accept that that is what you are doing. With experimentation also comes frequent failure (as the folks on your list were well aware.) Take responsibility, and own the consequences of your decisions. Don't engage in blame shifting.



Brew on :mug:


This post is on the money. Good on you, Doug.

SpentBrains, I think your brains are spent.

I have a pile of parts in my garage that I selected for my rig but were deemed not to work. I didn't then go and blast the manufacturer for failing to deliver on my design. It was my design, I took the risk, learned what I did wrong (or right), and moved on. I also didn't start whining on a forum online and get snarky with anyone who offered their feedback.

My post was to help you. There are areas where risk is worthwhile. I didn't see how saving 5 bucks was worth the risk. Many people made the same mistakes on PIDs and SSRs and have offered their learnings here. You can't pay for that advice, but it might be worth listening.

Now, before you pop off again, look at the title of this thread. Which you started. And good luck to you on your build - I won't be contributing.
 
The rex c100 I own does infact support RTD probes because thats what I used but as you may have found out now there are a few different sets of internal electronics being sold as the same model rex pid just like the scenario with the popular and highly copied STC-1000 temp controllers... the plastic enclosures on these cheap Rex knockoffs are none other than the same enclosures used in the chinese made Auber units too... there is also a 3rd option..you can buy the unbranded version of the auber pid direct from aliexpess for $25 shipped... http://www.aliexpress.com/store/pro...ature-Controller-XMT612/209587_598878204.html
I know your budgets tight..

How can you know that's the unbradend Auber PID? Do you have one?
I bought a cheap chinese one and it's missing the alarm contacts on the back...
 
How can you know that's the unbradend Auber PID? Do you have one?
I bought a cheap chinese one and it's missing the alarm contacts on the back...

I dont know and actually doubt they are completely identical, I do know that the auber pid units are made by a company in china and therefore like just about everything else made there for a short time they are either being sold directly by that factory, or are being cloned and sold... There are a number of different auber style clones out there with different model numbers and the functionality is the same, suggesting that the software at least from the auber units is being used on these non branded units. Sometimes these clones or knock offs are identical and sometimes the manufacturers cut cost saving corners.... Many people dont use the alarm feature from what I can see so they likely removed it from some of the clones models. My guess though is that Aubrerins developed the design and software for their pids before contracting a Chinese manufacturer to build them to save money on building costs. (likely the same scenerio with the rex units supposedly made in japan. The foteks are made in Tawian whereas the knockoffs are from china from what I've read.) Brands like Mypin are already a chinese company so knockoffs are likely more discouraged from being made.

This is not the case with the other stuff like the SSrs, temperature probes and switches and indicators that auber sells though... That stuff IS the Generic chinese stuff you can buy elsewhere for half the cost but the tradeoff is you have to wait for shipping from china and the chinese sellers wont hold your hand and show you how to install and use it like auber does. For some this is worth the much higher costs. Other are already comfortable with how a relay or switch works and if they dont mind waiting the extra week they can save a bundle on your panel build. I priced my panel out and I saved about $300 myself on my panel vs buying the equivalent of everything I used from auber.
 
Augie you saved 300 but what did it cost you in terms of time? It's a rhetorical question really, but maybe the savings weren't that great picking different, unknown components, buying from different vendors, etc. Its personal choice I suppose but I bought my 4 40A SSRs from Electric Brewing Supply at $48 total along with a bunch of other stuff and sure enough when one crapped out, Ryan replaced it immediately, no questions asked, and my only expense was a 30 second email, which is tough to beat in terms of time/energy. One order, all the stuff I needed, saved me boatload of time. Of course I burned that time on designing some novel stuff, so that's where I saw the value.
 
Augie you saved 300 but what did it cost you in terms of time? It's a rhetorical question really, but maybe the savings weren't that great picking different, unknown components, buying from different vendors, etc. Its personal choice I suppose but I bought my 4 40A SSRs from Electric Brewing Supply at $48 total along with a bunch of other stuff and sure enough when one crapped out, Ryan replaced it immediately, no questions asked, and my only expense was a 30 second email, which is tough to beat in terms of time/energy. One order, all the stuff I needed, saved me boatload of time. Of course I burned that time on designing some novel stuff, so that's where I saw the value.
I am used to using ebay and amazon so it didnt cost me anything in terms of time but the extra week or 2 for shipping and since I was building my kettles and such at the same time as well as running my 240v line I had plenty to do to fill in that time.

I did not have any issues with defective parts myself. My biggest issue was the consistency of the 12v leds indicator lights in my pump switches which I was able to resolve by adding a bit of solder to the contact points for better contact/fit this was cosmetic.

I see your point about having a quick no hassle source for replacement parts shortly after you ordered the originals, Here is my outlook on it.

A) If you pay twice as much or more for everything you could just order 2 of everything from amazon or ebay and have backups or spares for everything already on hand for future issues. this would make one further ahead in the long run.

B) Since this is a hobby and not a business venture I dont see the critical need to spend hundreds just to save a week or 2 worth of time if the possibility arises that I run into a defective part issue since I can easily get any defective parts replaced free of charge from the sellers on amazon or ebay as well, The only difference being the shipping time.

Building my panel was a fun experience and I learned a lot about the components and there advantages or weaknesses this way which I may not have otherwise done if I had just "followed suit" with most and trusted in one supplier for everything... Also I did not have the kind of funds laying around to just drop $600+ on parts for my panel alone not to mention auberins doesnt carry some of the components I used so my panel would be missing a lot of functionality for that $600 spent than the panel I built for under $300.. To me it was the different between a pipedream and making it a reality which is likely similiar to the OP's situation here...
 
I dig it. In truth I bought all my stuff from Amazon, ebay, McMaster Carr, Home Depot, Lowes, BrewHardare, Electric Brew Supply, and Brewers Hardware. It was amazing how much time did get spent on stoopid stuff like sourcing a high power relay for my RIMS Hi/Low power. You would think a DIN rail mount, SPDT, 30A NO/NC relay wouldn't be too much to ask but I spent hours researching that one.
 
I dig it. In truth I bought all my stuff from Amazon, ebay, McMaster Carr, Home Depot, Lowes, BrewHardare, Electric Brew Supply, and Brewers Hardware. It was amazing how much time did get spent on stoopid stuff like sourcing a high power relay for my RIMS Hi/Low power. You would think a DIN rail mount, SPDT, 30A NO/NC relay wouldn't be too much to ask but I spent hours researching that one.

For me a lot of it was learning what stuff was and how it worked... For example I had no idea what an SSR even was prior to all this. I spent a little time learning about things like PWM fequency for drivng my pump motors and such so I would choose the best one within my budget...

I do understand though that to some Time is money and headache so its just easier to either buy it prebuilt or source it all from one place for piece of mind and thats cool too, It just wasnt my situation.

It was a rewarding endeavor though and I'm glad I did it. I learned a lot.
 
Building my panel was a fun experience and I learned a lot about the components ...To me it was the different between a pipedream and making it a reality which is likely similiar to the OP's situation here...

Augie, I think we've far more to agree on than disagree. This week I am expecting about 30 different components from various internet and eBay sources. So I'll report how it goes. This ordering online control components is not really new territory to me. I've built several complex electro mechanical control systems.

For one, about 14 years ago, a giant hydraulic aircraft hangar door, I sourced locally and paid about 10 times what I could buy most of those components for now days. It was a saftey critical system as the entire side of the building opens. Therefore the controls had to be industrial quality and near fail proof to protect assets and people when the door is held open by the hydraulics. It has preformed flawlessly and safely with near zero maintenance for the time I've owned the building. No regrets, but it wasn't cheap.

More recently I added a VFD to control a 1970's vintage 3phase milling machine. All asian cheap eBay components and every aspect of the build has exceeded my expectation. The costs difference between online asian parts vs. name brand components from a local supply house in that system saved me at least $500. It too has stood the test of time and frequent hobby use and abuse.

Point being, although I disappointed by the shorting TC that came with my first ever PID purchase, the real question I have is, "How much profit can there be in making knock offs and corner cut near duplicates of PIDs?" They are not that expensive to begin with. Especially given the saftey concerns with SSRs!

I won't be contributing.

As for BrunDog, I was about halfway through reading your 2 vessel eRig thread last night, when I saw that you'd posted your withdraw. Sorry it's that way. I think there have been some real misunderstandings earlier in this thread.
 
The budget is also a problem for me. And because i live in Europe, either if a would have the money to buy a Auberins PID i don't think that the warranty would be valid so, if the PID will broke they can't sent me a new one across the ocean.
I am trying to make a cheap usable electric brewery with chinese components, but now i am worryed about the PID and SSR chinese sells.
I guid for buying chinese components would be great, with advices about what to look for before buying :D
So, augiedoggy, do you use the PID from the aliexpress link?
 
The budget is also a problem for me. And because i live in Europe, either if a would have the money to buy a Auberins PID i don't think that the warranty would be valid so, if the PID will broke they can't sent me a new one across the ocean.
I am trying to make a cheap usable electric brewery with chinese components, but now i am worryed about the PID and SSR chinese sells.
I guid for buying chinese components would be great, with advices about what to look for before buying :D
So, augiedoggy, do you use the PID from the aliexpress link?
Honestly no... I use mypin TD4-SNR model pids which have fuzzy logic as well as the manual pwm mode for controlling a steady boil they also have alarms and one model I use for my rims has 2 alarms. I currently use one Teledyne dual SSR I bought new for like $15 on eBay and one Fotek (25a knock off) which has worked fine for 3 years now... If I did it again I would have avoided the foteks and gone with the mager ones..
 
:off:
...

It was amazing how much time did get spent on stoopid stuff like sourcing a high power relay for my RIMS Hi/Low power. You would think a DIN rail mount, SPDT, 30A NO/NC relay wouldn't be too much to ask but I spent hours researching that one.

So, where did you find it? Seems like all the xPDT contactors have much lower current ratings on the NC contacts vs. the NO contacts.

Brew on :mug:
 
Does this mypin TD4-SNR look original to you? Or i have a big change to get a PID with another brand writen on it?

I have yet to ever hear of a knockoff mypin.. Like I mentioned earlier they are a Chinese company and knockoffs are usually made from foreign name brand goods... I believe you are safe if you order that.
 
:off:


So, where did you find it? Seems like all the xPDT contactors have much lower current ratings on the NC contacts vs. the NO contacts.

Brew on :mug:

Exactly. Some say it is just a ratings thing, but the difference between NO and NC is usually so large (e.g. 30A & 3A) that it is not worth testing IMO.

I used this one: http://www.alliedelec.com/schneider-electric-magnecraft-300xbxc4-120a/70184975/

However, in early practice it has failed. When switching from high power to low power with the element on, it arced, binding the contacts and tripping the circuit breaker. Of course I am switching from a hot leg to a neutral in that circumstance, so that may play a role, but nonetheless it is not behaving as designed. My workaround has been to use an extra state on the BCS to turn the element output off before switching the relay. This has completely resolved the issue, but using good software to make up for bad hardware is not a good practice.
 
Exactly. Some say it is just a ratings thing, but the difference between NO and NC is usually so large (e.g. 30A & 3A) that it is not worth testing IMO.

I used this one: http://www.alliedelec.com/schneider-electric-magnecraft-300xbxc4-120a/70184975/

However, in early practice it has failed. When switching from high power to low power with the element on, it arced, binding the contacts and tripping the circuit breaker. Of course I am switching from a hot leg to a neutral in that circumstance, so that may play a role, but nonetheless it is not behaving as designed. My workaround has been to use an extra state on the BCS to turn the element output off before switching the relay. This has completely resolved the issue, but using good software to make up for bad hardware is not a good practice.

Thanks. I think I'll stick with my design that uses two DPST contactors for the high/low power selection. Cost isn't that much different.

Brew on :mug:
 
Cheaply made or just plain fake electronic components has definitely caused me a lot of headaches.

I get daily emails from people building my design wondering why the $3 SSR they sourced themselves no longer works. They think it wasn't cooled adequately/they didn't use enough thermal grease/etc. but most often than not it's simply that it's just cheap junk. Fake components are fairly rare - most will work "Sort of" as long as you don't push the thing to the limits of how it should actually work.

Like others have stated, I don't find it's worth the hassle. "Buy once" is my motto.

Kal
 
One thing I know when sourcing cheaper electronics direct from Asian sellers is to read into what information is not provided - case in point the OPs PID. Looking at an example of what you want (e.g. Aubers PID) and compare its specs to those of the item from Ebay/China. If there is information missing it is likely that the seller doesn't know (and therefor it is a crap-shoot if it does what you want) or the seller intentionally has not provided the information because they know the option they are providing is not as valuable.

This goes back to the "doing research" prior to buying - for the OPs example; searching for Berme REX-C100 / Berme PID / REX-C100 PID / PID REX C100 / etc. would have brough up a wealth of information regarding what it can / can't do and items to be weary of. The you can make an informaed decision as to the risk of purchasing it.

Getting equipment that is DOA is not a reason for negative feedback to me, first give the seller a chance to make it right (and most will because they know the neg is hanging over their head). After all is it reasonable to expect the seller to test every item going out the door? (the answer is no). You may have been the unlucky one to get a dud that needs replacing, could of happened to any equipment bought in your country too it would just be quicker to resolve as you would not have another 3-4 weeks shipping to wait for.

I agree with your stance that you shouldn't just do what everyone else has done just because it is proven... but you should learn from anyone who has tried to go the path you are taking before you set off as it may save you some pain. If you can not find any information on your ideas then start asking on forums for advice, then if not real data can be given it is up to you to decide if you want to be a trailblazer and be immortalised in homebrewing lore as the first person to do this/that (i.e. Aplpha Omega's STC-1000+) for the risk of it being a complete was of time/money and being left with a pile of bits and pieces that won't do what you want to do...
 
Anyone found that, augiedoggy keep saying bad words on Auber for several years continuously (link).

In the past, he said Auber's SSR is much much expensive than the "counterfeit" one you can find in Amazon and eBay. Now since Auber reduced their SSR price, he changed his mind to Auber's PIDs.

I really believe that, either Auber hurt augie deeply in the past, or augie is paid by one of Auber's competitor, am I right?
You are completely wrong. Simply put I've never delt with them, ever.

I never suggested the OP here or anyone buy anything from auber unless they are in a time crunch for the simple reason that I dont argee with thier business practice of taking a generic $6 SSR and changing the label then charging $20 plus shipping for that same item... I dont say anything "bad" about them I just point out facts that you interpolate as bad. They buy cheap generic stuff in bulk and mark it up to well over double the normal retail price for it and this leads people to draw incorrect conclusions about its quality and origin.

For the record I recommended the mager ssrs and have for a long time, which are the same ssrs as auber sells.. I just wouldnt buy them there unless someone is in a hurry for them or really just wants to buy everything from one source markups and all.. It makes no difference to me as long as the person who is considering doing it is aware that there is nothing better at all about the actual generic sensors, switches ,indicators and such they are selling at higher prices... Most often people here give bad advice indicating that it is a superior product than the same product from the same factories being sold from another vendor for less people want to believe so bad that you always get exactly what you pay for and its just not the case.

I do however believe from all the research that you have done that you have some personal reason to implicate me here? do you perhaps have an affiliation with Auberins? Its no secret that I dont care for companies that push cheap products for high prices. Their pids are the only thing I would ever consider purchasing myself. I do however find it interesting that auber has been dropping their prices on a lot of the stuff they sell.... hmmm..
 
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