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HOWTO - Make a BrewPi Fermentation Controller For Cheap
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virgil1
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Did they work prior? I thought an earlier post you had it all running? Are the resistors in right? I would unplug it all and just hook up one sensor. Make sure that works, then do the next one.
GrogNerd
mean old man
I would guess you had your heater plugged in the cooling side
virgil1
Well-Known Member
Read every single post over the last several weeks and built my brewPi. Older Raspberry Pi I bought back in October 2013. I had used it for several small projects, nothing perm. though. Bought a Sainsmart Uno and relay on Amazon. Shoved into a tiny black plastic toolbox for now. Using an old 3rd gen iPod as my 'LCD display'. Had it lying around. Its only controlling my newly built keezer right now. Beer probe is the garage temp. Going to use it for Ferm control this weekend(using the keezer for ferm...just going to let the kegs warm up for a few weeks). Thanks to EVERYONE for their hard work. Especially FuzzeWuzze(for starting the thread), Elco(for his amazing work and software), day_trippr for all his amazing help and posts, and wbarber69 for all your smack downs. Good times!
They work when its not running. As soon as I change the mode to running it jumps up. Thanks will give that a try.
They are hooked up right it was my first though also. Thanks for asking though.
Cool! How did you make that happen?
What kind of interface does an iPod have?
Cheers! (thanks for the kind words
)
virgil1
Well-Known Member
Cool! How did you make that happen?
What kind of interface does an iPod have?
Cheers! (thanks for the kind words
I am just using Safari on the wifi. I looked at a couple tips for the php page that people had up to use old phones for the same task. I created my own "touch.php", "touch-panel.php" and "touch_stype.css". The first two were just stripped down from the original php files to almost nothing. The third was only to change the width and height. I load it up in the safari browser on the iPod, and then I zoom in a tiny bit. I have the lock/sleep disabled. So it just stays on all the time. I haven't updated the iPod in quite a while, so the version of Safari for the ipod might be a bit old. It doesn't seem to have any trouble. On ebay, the last one I looked at went for $36.00 with free shipping(I am sure if you were patient, you could do better). I suppose you could use it to play music a the same time
.Edit: I just saw one on ebay go for $29.00. It was a Gen 2 iPod though, which would work.
Ah - ok, I know zip about iPods. Along with actual displays, I didn't realize they have network connectivity and can even run web browsers.
The only iPod I've ever had was a first-gen Shuffle.
It has a tiny green led
Cheers!
The only iPod I've ever had was a first-gen Shuffle.
It has a tiny green led
Cheers!
wbarber69
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You need to show pics of your setup. I'd be willing to bet you forgot to cut the tab
wbarber69
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Ok so since we can't actually see the build or any kind of schematic then we can't even try to begin to relate to your issue when your question is basically here is a graph of temperature while my system is off, what's wrong?
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FuzzeWuzze
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Looks good! Was concerned a bit by the graph and how spiked out it looked until you explained what the sensors were
Once controlling your chamber it definately should not be moving up and down that fast.
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FuzzeWuzze
I Love DIY
If your not using the standard wiring diagram then we need to know how things are hooked up. In general probe issues are due to an improper connection(bad solder joint) or insufficient voltage.
Have you tried swapping probes with one like your beer one that "works" and doesnt exhibit this behavior?
Don't forget the pull-up resistor for the temp sensor data signal...
Cheers!
Cheers!
virgil1
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Looks good! Was concerned a bit by the graph and how spiked out it looked until you explained what the sensors were
Thanks! I am still designing my case to hold it all, I'll post when I get it setup. I put my first brew in it last night. Its a SMaSH all grain with Simcoe. I don't have a heater yet, so its a little confused, but it is keeping really close to my set 65 just using cooling. I am using Safale US-05. Just so folks know, you can do this without a heater if you want(if the fermenting room doesn't get too damn cold). Funny part is that the heater is cheapest by far. I am using the same chamber for a keezer. I only brew about once every 5 or 6 weeks. The beer is still in the keg, I'll just put some in flip tops and put it in the fridge so I have some to drink.
See my graph now:
virgil1
Well-Known Member
I want to put a AC to DC power module in my brewpi box so I don't have to use a couple of wall warts. Anyone use one like this from ebay? Worried that the pi seems to need 5V 1.2A, and most of what I see on ebay is just at 1.2A or is 1A. The 12V 1A for the Arduino is fine. Anyone tried one of these?
http://r.ebay.com/oj1m5r
http://r.ebay.com/oj1m5r
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FuzzeWuzze
I Love DIY
Not to rush you, but now is the best time on Amazon to buy the Lasko MyHeat ceramic heaters w/ fan i recommend. In another few weeks it will be winter and they will have huge demand as the cold fall/winter hits the US and shoot up to $35-40 each instead of the $16 they are now.
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FuzzeWuzze
I Love DIY
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008LT2PGY/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
I use that in my Strangebrew Elsinore control panel to power my RPI and it works fine. I cut a USB cord, wired it into the outputs and plug the USB end into the RPI. You will need a Multimeter so that you can test between the two output screws to see if your at 5V and turn the adjustment potentiometer on it with a screwdriver to increase/decrease the voltage. I ended up needing about ~5.17V at the output to get my RPI to turn on for whatever reason im guessing due to some losses going through the USB cable? DO NOT go above 5.25V into the RPI or you may screw it up.
Its nice because it has an enclosure to keep it safe, terminals are easy to access, a LED for when its on...and its tiny
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virgil1
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Thanks FuzzeWuzze! I was going to go with the Heat Tape, any reason that's a bad idea?
http://www.reptilebasics.com/12-heat-tape
virgil1
Well-Known Member
Thanks! That would work. I could use that and the eBay one....or I could just continue to power the Uno from the USB port. I actually haven't had a single problem with it.
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FuzzeWuzze
I Love DIY
They sell ones with higher amperage ratings, you could go with something like this
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PZDUUUM/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
And just shove both your RPI and Arduino USB cables into it, 5A is way more than you need(its the next biggest i could find after 2A).
Realistically even with 2A you can probably power the RPI and Arduino though. I would think?
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I used heat tape on the inside of my chamber for a while. It worked, I had it lining the walls around the fermenter. The Lasko heater works better IMHO. It doesn't over shoot as much and the fan helps circulate the heat and air. my set up in now a 14 gal SSbrewtech chronical in a 17 cuft freezer, again it works well.
GrogNerd
mean old man
not sure if this has been covered in 4000+ posts in this thread, but I can't seem to get an answer
running the BrewPi thru VirtualBox on Win10, got everything going up to adding the relays and outlets. have had very few problems up to this point, got temperature data getting logged.
problem comes when I choose to start a new FERMENTING beer. the graph disappears after following instructions to REFRESH the page. closing & reopening the browser does not work, nor does restarting the VirtualBox
Grog.Confused.Now.
running the BrewPi thru VirtualBox on Win10, got everything going up to adding the relays and outlets. have had very few problems up to this point, got temperature data getting logged.
problem comes when I choose to start a new FERMENTING beer. the graph disappears after following instructions to REFRESH the page. closing & reopening the browser does not work, nor does restarting the VirtualBox
Grog.Confused.Now.
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FuzzeWuzze
I Love DIY
Its probably permissions related, i'd check in your BrewPi folder where it logs..i think theres a log folder? Anyways there should be one with the name of your new brew..im willing to bet it failed to create the log file, or for some reason cant read/write to it...
Maybe run the fixPermissions script...
virgil1
Well-Known Member
64.74 - 65.2. I have it set to 65. Pretty darn good. I am sure with a heater it might get into a tighter range. I'll take less than a degree though!
wbarber69
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Try deleting that profile and starting a new one then look into the logs. I think there is a glitch that will make this happen. But it's proabably permissions related
virgil1
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Wait...is 5V enough for the Uno? Doesn't it need at least 6V?
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Well 7-12v is recommended.
5v was not enough for my Uno so I use an old ATX PSU with 5V for the Raspi and 12V for the Uno.
wbarber69
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If you aren't running anything but the arduino and a relay board 5v 2a should be enough to run the pi and the duino. It's really more about consistent power than voltage unless the voltage drops below 4.8v you should be fine. My nanos use 5v and they run bluetooth radios with no problems.
Plugging a 5V supply into an Uno's power port is not going to work.
There's a linear regulator to make 5V from that input port, and that regulator needs a couple of volts of head-room at the minimum. For reliable operation you really need a 9V supply.
Otoh, with a slight modification (basically, remove a small FET) you can bring 5V onto the Uno directly to the 5V header pins, bypassing the regulator...
Cheers!
There's a linear regulator to make 5V from that input port, and that regulator needs a couple of volts of head-room at the minimum. For reliable operation you really need a 9V supply.
Otoh, with a slight modification (basically, remove a small FET) you can bring 5V onto the Uno directly to the 5V header pins, bypassing the regulator...
Cheers!
GrogNerd
mean old man
that was it, works great now, THANKS! :rockin:
and this was exactly what I was looking for, works great, thank you!
you get rockin tank, too :rockin:
GrogNerd
mean old man
another step closer...
got the relay, hooked it up, configured & tested. JOY!
now the home stretch: outlets, project box, heater, final assembly and then pre-production testing
got the relay, hooked it up, configured & tested. JOY!
now the home stretch: outlets, project box, heater, final assembly and then pre-production testing
wbarber69
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It's more the 200 watts it uses than the 1.5kw max heat output. Like I said previously, I find this heater work very well in my 17cuft freezer than the reptile tape. Iirc it over shoots less (though the tape wasn't unreasonable at all) and it cycles less (again the tape was reasonable with the as well)
Isn't the Pi supposed to learn the system and adjust for it? Have you seen Rpi controlled chambers overshoot with large heaters?
Using a high wattage heater in such a small environment is sub-optimal, regardless of PID algorithms running on credit card computers. The spike on the chamber probe is going to be challenging for BrewPi to pick the exact instant to shut down the heater. Something with a MUCH SLOWER RAMP is a better solution.
In my 17cf top-freezer unit, I use a 60W lightbulb "heater". It's plenty even in the dead of winter. Indeed I could probably use a 40W...
Cheers!
In my 17cf top-freezer unit, I use a 60W lightbulb "heater". It's plenty even in the dead of winter. Indeed I could probably use a 40W...
Cheers!
I can see how it could be a problem if the algorithm can't keep up, but I'm still wondering if anyone has seen overshoots with a Rpi and larger heaters. Just because lower wattage works does not mean that higher wattage won't. I'm close to selecting a heater for mine, so this is a timely discussion.
virgil1
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I bought one anyhow. It was $17.39 shipped. Arrived the day after I ordered it. I'll test it out after this beer is done fermenting and post how it went. I have a 7 cu ft freezer.
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FuzzeWuzze
I Love DIY
*EDIT*
Its only 200W, Amazon is wrong.
[ame]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fGiGv2E4hQg[/ame]
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