eHerms Wiring Questions

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JayInJersey

JayInJersey

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Due to the fact I can't remember where I asked my electric questions way back when this was a glimmer in my eye...and now I really want to focus on Before I continue doodling up this DIY does anyone see any blaring oversights/mistakes on my rough diagram?

And yes I know nothing is really labeled...but its only the first draft.

showphoto.php

Ok..wow that picture is small
Have to find a bigger copy.
Here is a link to it on my gallery link

eHERMSv1.jpg
 
Looks fairly straight forward. I know its the first draft, but things I might look out for:
based on the drawing, your LEDs are getting 120V. unless they have inline resistors, they'll blow.
I would wonder where you're getting your power. if its 4 wire (hot-hot-neutral-ground) you're good, but if you using an older dryer outlet and only have 3 (hot-hot-ground) i would really recommend going 240V on your pumps and PIDs and drop the neutral all together. If you do have 4 wire, and keep the neutral, you might consider balancing your pumps (one on each hot) so you dont accidentally overload one side if they're both running

just my thoughts. otherwise, its exaclty what i would be doing, including the switch (S3) on the SSR control to select which element is actually active.
 
Interesting thought with the LEDs...would I need a resistor for these? Link

And you are 100% right...I am using a 3 prong Dryer. Shyte...now I have to redo my whole thing.

Thanks for catching that early :)
 
mattmauriello said:
Looks fairly straight forward. I know its the first draft, but things I might look out for:
based on the drawing, your LEDs are getting 120V. unless they have inline resistors, they'll blow.
I would wonder where you're getting your power. if its 4 wire (hot-hot-neutral-ground) you're good, but if you using an older dryer outlet and only have 3 (hot-hot-ground) i would really recommend going 240V on your pumps and PIDs and drop the neutral all together. If you do have 4 wire, and keep the neutral, you might consider balancing your pumps (one on each hot) so you dont accidentally overload one side if they're both running

just my thoughts. otherwise, its exaclty what i would be doing, including the switch (S3) on the SSR control to select which element is actually active.
Click to expand...

yeah i'm dealing with the 3-wire prong 240V also. i am running a separate 120v circuit for the HLT elements and PID, then the BK element is going to be the only thing on the 240V circuit. it requires a separate 120 power source (i.e., a second cable), but it works for me.

btw, with those LEDs you linked, they are for 120v so you should be ok
 
those lights are fine, for 120V. but if you are dropping the neutral (because of the 3 prong outlet) then you have nothing to hook them up to. I didn't look real hard, but didn't see 240V LEDs on the site, but a little math says a 10Kohm (2 watt, 1/4w won't handle the heat dissipation) resister in line with the LEDs shouhld be enough to bring the voltage down and be safe

If you already have 120V pumps, you could just run another cord to a standard plug and run the pump switches off that supply
 
So if I wanted to keep the single cord setup...I'd need to have the 3 prong outlet replaced. Which should be replaced anyway as the 4 is "safer" than the 3 for a dryer to begin with...correct? (Old Code vs New Code right? When was the code changed anyway?)
What's that gonna run me? Another $500 - $1000?

DAMMIT!
I need a newer house or a cheaper hobby.
 
if the dryer is using 240V only, which it should be, then the outlets really aren't any less safe than the 4 wire, assuming the ground wire actually is ground. you only need the 4th (neutral) if you want to safely use either of the hot legs for 120V. If you want the 4 wire, the most expensive part is probably going to be the wire, unless your breaker panel happens to just be a few feet away. the hook ups are pretty easy, and the outlets aren't too cost prohibitive, but wire than can handle 30A is not cheap. the only 'gotcha' to look out for is whether or not the thicker wire will fit in any existing conduit. it would really suck to drop a bunch of cash and then realize its too bulky to pull it through.
 
Naw...I draw the line at messing with the breaker box itself.

That's where I'll have to call in the electrician and get raped by them.

Aren't dryers now 4-plug out the door?
 
My experience (meaning im about 85% certain) has been that dryers don't come with the cords at all, just the screw posts for the electrical connection inside the unit. you need to get a cord thats appropriate for your outlet and wire it to the dryer during installation.
 

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