Brutus Ten ????

Williams 728
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Wow I hope mine dont leak that bad. How hot do you figure it will get at the nozzle base? I have heard of people removing all the jets and sealing them but I cannot remember what they used.
 
kladue said:
You might use permatex #2, use rubbing alcohol to remove the permatex from your fingers afterwards.
Click to expand...

thanks Kladue. Looks like I will have to seal all the jets. Your input is always valuable. I started working on valves and spark today. I'll report back tomorrow when I fire them up.
 
Chimone said:
hmm....good topic


anyone know the temp rating for teflon lube? not the actual tape, but the liquid stuff?

I remember a picture from Bobby_M and it looked like he put something on his. Let me find it

*edit no luck
Click to expand...

It's just some generic pipe thread sealing compound I found in HD or Lowes, nothing special but it is holding up just fine. I did take all the jets out and applied the compound to the threads. I also used it on the bolts that I used to plug some of the jets.
 
Well I'm pretty pleased. I got my first spark fired burner up and running! It's very cool.

IMG_0143.jpg
 
Just finished my acid and PBW wash

couple things....
1. dont think my regulator is big enough. If I run one burner its fine, two and I dont get much flow.
2. not sure how the LOVEs should be set

anyone have an instruction manual for the LOVE controllers?
 
With the multi-jet burners you can not use the air-gas mixer like other burners use. If the flame is large and yellow you probably have the NG jetted nozzles (way to much gas flow when used with 11" wc propane). Looks like the nozzles would need to be replaced unless you could find some threaded jets and drill and thread the nozzle inlets to convert it to LPG.
 
kladue said:
With the multi-jet burners you can not use the air-gas mixer like other burners use. If the flame is large and yellow you probably have the NG jetted nozzles (way to much gas flow when used with 11" wc propane). Looks like the nozzles would need to be replaced unless you could find some threaded jets and drill and thread the nozzle inlets to convert it to LPG.
Click to expand...

Im a little concerned about this. I am getting lots of yellow, and not much blue. How can I tell for sure if my jets are LP?
 
Chimone said:
Just finished my acid and PBW wash

couple things....
1. dont think my regulator is big enough. If I run one burner its fine, two and I dont get much flow.
2. not sure how the LOVEs should be set

anyone have an instruction manual for the LOVE controllers?
Click to expand...

You need to go into programming and set D0 to ht. It's set for cooling by default.
 
Can you use a JC 419 controller to control a solenoid valve? I ask, because they seem to just have a standard three prong power connection. Anyone know?!
 
kladue said:
With the multi-jet burners you can not use the air-gas mixer like other burners use. If the flame is large and yellow you probably have the NG jetted nozzles (way to much gas flow when used with 11" wc propane). Looks like the nozzles would need to be replaced unless you could find some threaded jets and drill and thread the nozzle inlets to convert it to LPG.
Click to expand...


yea the amount of soot on the bottom of my keg was insane. I ordered the LP burners so they should of come with LP nozzles....who knows though.


korndog said:
You need to go into programming and set D0 to ht. It's set for cooling by default.
Click to expand...

can you give me a quick run through on how to do that?
 
Chimone said:
yea the amount of soot on the bottom of my keg was insane. I ordered the LP burners so they should of come with LP nozzles....who knows though.
Click to expand...

Mo too.

Can you give me a quick run through on how to do that?
Click to expand...

Sure. Just hold down the set button for 8 seconds until you see a zero. Hit the set button again and you should see SP. Arrow up until you see D0 and hit set again. It should say "Cl." Arrow up once to change to "ht." and hit set again. Then exit programming by pressing set/down-arrow at the same time. Good to go.

I assume you have it wired up ok. If not, here is how for 120v valves. If you have 24v, then you need to run your 24v hot into the common (10) instead of jumping from #8.

hermswiring3.jpg
 
thanks Korn

ya wired up and working as intended. Thanks, now I can change that

Now to deal with these 23 jet burners. I really think the ten jet burners will work much better. Im just not pushing enough LP to get all 23 to fire correctly. Let alone having two burners going at once, that even kills the pilots.
 
Here is a low tech method to test pressure in low pressure gas systems with a home made "U" tube manometer.
Materials needed:
4' of 1/4"-3/8" clear plastic tubing
tee in gas line with tubing connector
food coloring for water inside tubing
yard stick and binder clips to hold tubing to edges of yard stick

Method:
bend plastic tubing in U shape and attach to yard stick
fill tubing until colored liquid is 12-18" above bottom of U
mark liquid levels on tube
attach to tee in gas line and apply pressure
mark tube at new level
add displacement on both sides to get inches of water column pressure

Normal natural gas regulated pressure is 4" water column
Normal Low pressure LP is 11-13" water column
1 PSI = 27" water column

If one has multiple regulators you can parallel them to get higher flow capacity, not the ideal method but will work if regulators are the same and are rated for high pressure inlet (direct to tank). Regulator with highest output setting flows the most followed by next lower pressure setting. Do not mix low and high pressure regulators in parallel as you will become a contestant for the darwin awards if you do.
 
korndog said:
I think it functions just like the Love switch. It's a SPDT output with heating and cooling modes.
Click to expand...


I am sure the functinality is the same, BUT how do I get a solenoid valve to (plug into) a regular three prong socket in the JC controller?
 
Hey guys
I am trying to tweak the burners and flames for brewing. If I turn valve up to get blue flame to the kettle, I get major flames up the sides. Any advice on burner adjustment would help. Thanks.

IMG_01011.jpg


IMG_01041.jpg
 
korndog said:
Hey guys
I am trying to tweak the burners and flames for brewing. If I turn valve up to get blue flame to the kettle, I get major flames up the sides. Any advice on burner adjustment would help. Thanks.
Click to expand...

I had the same problem and as I see it there are two fixes for it.

1.) Lower the burners two inches.
2.) Put the keggles two inches higher.

I opted for option #2 as a temporary solution. I bought some 2x2x8 patio pavers for 38cents each and used a mason chisel and chopped those suckers in half. For a temporary solution that cost only a couple bucks it worked great.

n53412065812372772270gq2.jpg
 
well jsut finished my first brew

couple things.....
I dont like these 23 jet burners
i hate the wind
I love fly sparging so much more than batch

I got 84% efficiency which isnt bad. I have a few things Im going to tweak, but once I have this dialed in its going to be the a piece of cake to brew great brew.
 
HarvInSTL said:
I had the same problem and as I see it there are two fixes for it.

1.) Lower the burners two inches.
2.) Put the keggles two inches higher.

I opted for option #2 as a temporary solution. I bought some 2x2x8 patio pavers for 38cents each and used a mason chisel and chopped those suckers in half. For a temporary solution that cost only a couple bucks it worked great.
Click to expand...

Hey Harv. Glad to see you up and running. Looks great. Congrats. I think I have to offset my valves to get a lower flame or raise kettles like you did.
 
Chimone said:
well jsut finished my first brew

couple things.....
I dont like these 23 jet burners
i hate the wind
I love fly sparging so much more than batch

I got 84% efficiency which isnt bad. I have a few things Im going to tweak, but once I have this dialed in its going to be the a piece of cake to brew great brew.
Click to expand...

Good job. Congrats. I might brew tomorrow. Anybody have any other low pressure burners the love.
 
Another option would be to use a 1" hole saw on the keggle skirt and put the holes on 2" centers 1/2 - 3/4 of way around skirt opposite of valve side for flame venting, or use some 1 1/2"X1/4" flatbar on edge to raise keggles.
 
thanks. i sure do miss my hurricane burner when Im using these jet burners.

those of you with the 10 jet burners, how do those work? I don;t know, maybe I have the wrong LP regulator also. Everytime the solenoids opened, I got a huge gush of propane which would send flames everywhere for a few seconds. Im using 30 psi, but who knows. At least now I know what needs to be tweaked for future batches. I knew I wouldnt be winning any awards with the brew, it was more of a trial run.


oh and get one of those really long lighters. All I had was a bic lighter, and now I no longer have any hair on my right arm. My pilots kept blowing out so I had to manually relight the burners most of the time
 
I would like to publicly thank Kladue for the invaluable help he generously offered in setting up my gas system. After testing in the wind today, I can say I am very happy with my choice and love to hear those modules clicking away. This forum is an unbelievable resource, and members like him make it that way. Thanks to Lonnie Mac for inspiring all of us, and thanks to my wife for putting up with months of sick obsession. And of course to everyone else who helped me along the way.

IMG_0106.jpg


Cheers

Korndog
 
I might be wrong but i thought the ring burners were meant for low pressure NG (4" wc)and LP gas(11"-13" wc). If you have the flow control valve before the solenoid valve move it to after the solenoid valve and as close to burner inlet as possible to help reduce the whoosh factor on startup.
 
HOW did you get electronic ignition!? That looks nice... Id love to build mine with the same electronic ignition. What components do you need?
 
kladue said:
I might be wrong but i thought the ring burners were meant for low pressure NG (4" wc)and LP gas(11"-13" wc).
Click to expand...

not sure what that means.

kladue said:
If you have the flow control valve before the solenoid valve move it to after the solenoid valve and as close to burner inlet as possible to help reduce the whoosh factor on startup.
Click to expand...

thats my problem then. The regulator and flow control valve are next to the propane tank and then theres a 3 foot hose after those attaching it to the gas tubing. Im going to put either a ball valve or needle valve after the solenoid and see if that makes a difference
 
kladue said:
I might be wrong but i thought the ring burners were meant for low pressure NG (4" wc)and LP gas(11"-13" wc). If you have the flow control valve before the solenoid valve move it to after the solenoid valve and as close to burner inlet as possible to help reduce the whoosh factor on startup.
Click to expand...

I have a gas ball valve on the riser after my gas dual valve. Are you saying that if I had control even closer to the burner that I woul dhave finer flame adjustments available?

Thanks.
 
ok just got done installing a gas ball valve right after the ASCO and a few inches before the burner. Im out of LP or I would fire it up.

Ill let you guys know soon if that provides better flame control for these burners
 
The whoosh factor comes from the flow control valve being upstream of the asco type solenoid valves as the pipe pressurizes when the solenoid valve is closed and lets a burst of gas hit the burner before the restriction of the valve drops the pressure. The honeywell valves are a slower opening type valve so you usually dont get the big blast of gas to the burner like you do with solenoid valves. If one is using a high pressure regulator try reducing the output pressure until the flow restrictor valve is at least half to nearly full open to help reduce the high pressure surge to the burner.
 
Gordie said:
Any reason this thermowell wouldn't work for a Love controller/SS Tee fitting setup? Its $9 plus shipping on Ebay. There's also a 4" stem for about $12.

"1/2" FEMALE GAUGE CONNECTION
2-1/2" STEM LENGTH
1/2" FEMALE PROCESS CONNECTION
STEM INSIDE BORE DIMENSIONS: .260" bore
304 STAINLESS STEEL
FACTORY NEW"


http://cgi.ebay.com/THERMOWELL-304s...VQQcmdZViewItemQQ_trksidZp1638Q2em118Q2el1247
Click to expand...


I bought two from him. The Love probe fits inside without modification. The are slightly larger, so flow is a bit more restricted if using inside a tee. I cut mine down for this purpose and filled with JBweld. Good product.
 
korndog said:
I bought two from him. The Love probe fits inside without modification. The are slightly larger, so flow is a bit more restricted if using inside a tee. I cut mine down for this purpose and filled with JBweld. Good product.
Click to expand...

Hey Korndog. Cool. Did you cut down the 2.5" or 4" and what was the final length? Also, would it make sense just to extend the T a bit to pull the tip of the thermowell back and free up some of the flow?
 
Gordie said:
Hey Korndog. Cool. Did you cut down the 2.5" or 4" and what was the final length? Also, would it make sense just to extend the T a bit to pull the tip of the thermowell back and free up some of the flow?
Click to expand...

I cut mine back so the end of the probe terminates in the fat part of the tee where the outlet is. I get plenty of flow. I actually bought the six inch not intending to cut them. Here's the link.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=200198445258

My readings during heat-up are 1.75 degrees lower at the probe than in the kettle. Temperatures stabilize about 1 minute after shutdown. I tested several areas in the kettle and found pretty uniform temperatures while recirculating, including the bottom of kettle. You could certainly extend the tee instead of cutting and sealing.

Oh yeah, the probe is 1.75" long.

IMG_0115.jpg


IMG_0116.jpg
 

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