Secondary Fermentation Container Usage

I read the beginners thread and the please read before asking questions topic. In the secondary fermentation container usage this was stated.

Quote:
During secondary fermentation, the yeast reduces or removes certain undesirable flavor components (diacetyl, acetylaldehyde, and some sulphur compounds), thereby maturing the beer into a more drinkable condition. During this latter phase of fermentation, the majority of the yeast in the beer also settles to the bottom of the fermenter, leaving the beer clear and bright. Thus, at the end of secondary fermentation, beer is generally ready to be carbonated and consumed.

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#1. Do you add more yeast when you add the beer to the secondary fermentation container or just move the beer with the already contained yeast?

#2. When I move the beer to the secondary Fermentation container, I have always waited for the beer to be done fermenting "Holding the specific gravity at the same reading for 2 - 3 days". Should I be using an airlock on the carboy, or since the fermentation is complete should I use a solid rubber stopper? I usually try to leave the beer in the carboy for 2+ weeks before bottling.

So basically which stopper to use and do I add additional yeast when transferring ?

1. Don't add more yeast. Your yeast should be multiplying and eating all the sugar without extra help. Adding something only increased the chance of contamination. If your SG is too high you might think about re-pitching, but this is rare - meaning your yeast stopped too early, like only 50% attenuation.

2. Many home brewers don't rack to secondary. Do it if you have a reason to - dry hopping, clearing the primary for another batch, etc..

Leave an airlock on the secondary. There is probably still some slow fermentation going on for up to a couple of weeks, the slow building pressure could throw your plug across the room or worst case break your (if you are using glass) container or the seal.

CouchFarmer said:

1. Don't add more yeast. Your yeast should be multiplying and eating all the sugar without extra help. Adding something only increased the chance of contamination. If your SG is too high you might think about re-pitching, but this is rare - meaning your yeast stopped too early, like only 50% attenuation.

2. Many home brewers don't rack to secondary. Do it if you have a reason to - dry hopping, clearing the primary for another batch, etc..

Leave an airlock on the secondary. There is probably still some slow fermentation going on for up to a couple of weeks, the slow building pressure could throw your plug across the room or worst case break your (if you are using glass) container or the seal.

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Thanks for the information. I have a question as I do not understand a certain part of your post.

Many home brewers don't rack to secondary?

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What does that mean to "Rack" to secondary?

Also the reason I use it is because I make one batch while another is bottled and the extra time it takes to drink the beer, gives me a few weeks to let the other sit in the secondary fermenter and because I am under the assumption aging the beer in the secondary fermenter before bottling helps the outcome.

Racking is brewspeak for siphoning- siphoning being the more general term for transferring a liquid from one level to another, usually via a hose & maybe other gear. The normal appliance used by homebrewers is a "racking cane," these days a plastic tube a couple of feet long that goes down into the bottom of the vessel (fermeter, carboy or etc.) and then a hose hooks to the bent part at the top (what presumably gives it the name "cane"), and extends down into the lower vessel so that siphoning can occur.
My personal preference in racking canes is a nifty little gizmo called an autosiphon (about $15) that performs the racking without any sucking on a hose to establish the siphon, thus risking contamination. Just go to any supplier like Midwest or Austin and do a search.


The assumption that time in the secondary helps "age" all beers isn't necessarily true in all cases. With something heavy like a barleywine or imperial stout, a secondary -and for an extended period- would be almost a necessity. With something like a hefeweizen, no, since that style requires very little conditioning, and can probably go directly from a 3-week primary right into bottle or keg.

Thank you. Yes I have a nice autosiphon. I purchased it after I too became concerned about "Prematurely tasting my beer by sucking the siphon hose to start it"

As far as my beer, you are also correct I prefer imperial stout's and Oatmeal stouts as my main style preference, with a Nice India Pale Ale or Pale Ale as my backup on days when I just do not want the density of the Stout. I also enjoy some some Nutty beers like a "Nut Brown" they sometimes call them. Usually a "Heavy Beer" or a Very Bitter clear style of beer" suits my palette.

And just to clarify Information. Leave the airlock on the secondary fermenter the entire time until I bottle it. Even if that means 2 - 3 weeks in it ? I just want to make certain that is alright. I do not want to lose a batch cause I had it sitting too long in an unsealed container. "Airlock keeps new air out as best it can, but a solid stopper would be better suited if there was no pressure building.

Also I use a plastic "Better Bottle" carboy for the secondary fermenter, so no worry about glass breakage. and I did that mainly cause shipping was a LOT Cheaper than a glass one and moving it from room to room is a lot easier.

Thanks again for all the advice.

Brian

An airlock properly filled with liquid (cheap vodka, sanitizing solution, etc.) for an extended time in secondary will keep any nasties out.

jeffmeh said:

An airlock properly filled with liquid (cheap vodka, sanitizing solution, etc.) for an extended time in secondary will keep any nasties out.

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OMG. WTH. I am not sure whether to take that as you being funny, or if you are being serious?

I usually just use distilled water? Am I supposed to be using sanitized liquid? I use a no rinse sanitizer for cleaning and sanitizing all the equipment before making? should I be using some of that in the airlock?

I notice my airlock drips a little into the container as I am putting it together. Vodka dripping in maybe but sanitizer ? yuck...

scorchingice said:

OMG. WTH. I am not sure whether to take that as you being funny, or if you are being serious?

I usually just use distilled water? Am I supposed to be using sanitized liquid? I use a no rinse sanitizer for cleaning and sanitizing all the equipment before making? should I be using some of that in the airlock?

I notice my airlock drips a little into the container as I am putting it together. Vodka dripping in maybe but sanitizer ? yuck...

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I am serious. Cheap vodka works out great, and if you use Starsan then a bit in the fermenter will be fine. I would not use bleach or iodine, though.

Many of us use Star San or Vodka in the airlock. Sometimes when the temperature changes or you are moving a fermenter, the airlock liquid will suck back into your brew. It's a good idea to have something sanitary in the airlock should this happen. An ounce of Vodka or Star San will not hurt or flavor your brew. Star San turns into yeast food if it goes in your brew.

Just to clarify...The "secondary fermenter" in home brewing terms is not for fermenting; it is for clearing and is sometimes called a bright tank. Beer should be at its final gravity before being transferred (racked) to the bright tank. Secondary is also used for dry hopping or additions (fruit, spices, etc) after fermentation has taken place.

As mentioned above, you need to use an airlock with seconday or you could have an explosive situation.

Thank you everyone for your replies.

I understand the usage a lot better after this post.