Building my mash tun...What am I missing?

Hello all. I'm new to the forum and decided to go AG. I bought the above ball valve and screen from my local hb store. Question is, do I need a coupler? Won't that take up extra room in my cooler? I'm using a 10 gal igloo. I'll have to cut the screen to make it fit, which I'd rather not do. Any ideas? Thanks!

Look for a shank to fill the space between the cooler walls. That should help.
Google cooler mash tun kits and you will get some good ideas.
I did not have to cut my screen. Its a good tight fit, but it does fit.

howbrewudo said:

Hello all. I'm new to the forum and decided to go AG. I bought the above ball valve and screen from my local hb store. Question is, do I need a coupler? Won't that take up extra room in my cooler? I'm using a 10 gal igloo. I'll have to cut the screen to make it fit, which I'd rather not do. Any ideas? Thanks!

Click to expand...

You need a bulkhead to go through the cooler wall. Checkout brewhardware.Com if you havent already. Although with MPT ends on both of those fittings you might still need couplers on both sides of the bulkhead unless you can find FPT-FPT ends.

Try this...

http://www.bargainfittings.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=49

I am familiar with the type of ball valve that you have; it is the Brewer's Edge valve. I have four of them myself. One of the posts mentions that you need a bulkhead. However, with this type of valve, anothe bulkhead is not needed.
Also this valve will work both the Igloo coolers and the Rubbermaid collers. You will need to remove the valve that came with the cooler and put this valve in its place. Insert the valve through the hole that held the first spout. Then from the inside add the nut and tighten the assembly. The o-ring in the valve should provide a seal so it will not leak.

You may have to have the handle at an angle rather than having the valve handle at a level position. This is so that you would have enough room to completely close the valve without the cooler getting in the way of the valve handle.

Finally, if you got the screen that goes specifically with that valve, the screen will attach to the inner threads of the ball valve. You may have noticed that there are threads on the outside and inside of the nipple.

If the screen nipple is the same size as the ball valve nipple, you might use a short union to join the two together.

I hope that this helps you.

Mark

LuiInIdaho said:

I am familiar with the type of ball valve that you have; it is the Brewer's Edge valve. I have four of them myself. One of the posts mentions that you need a bulkhead. However, with this type of valve, anothe bulkhead is not needed.
Also this valve will work both the Igloo coolers and the Rubbermaid collers. You will need to remove the valve that came with the cooler and put this valve in its place. Insert the valve through the hole that held the first spout. Then from the inside add the nut and tighten the assembly. The o-ring in the valve should provide a seal so it will not leak.

You may have to have the handle at an angle rather than having the valve handle at a level position. This is so that you would have enough room to completely close the valve without the cooler getting in the way of the valve handle.

Finally, if you got the screen that goes specifically with that valve, the screen will attach to the inner threads of the ball valve. You may have noticed that there are threads on the outside and inside of the nipple.

If the screen nipple is the same size as the ball valve nipple, you might use a short union to join the two together.

I hope that this helps you.

Mark

Click to expand...

Dyy

LuiInIdaho said:

I am familiar with the type of ball valve that you have; it is the Brewer's Edge valve. I have four of them myself. One of the posts mentions that you need a bulkhead. However, with this type of valve, anothe bulkhead is not needed.
Also this valve will work both the Igloo coolers and the Rubbermaid collers. You will need to remove the valve that came with the cooler and put this valve in its place. Insert the valve through the hole that held the first spout. Then from the inside add the nut and tighten the assembly. The o-ring in the valve should provide a seal so it will not leak.

You may have to have the handle at an angle rather than having the valve handle at a level position. This is so that you would have enough room to completely close the valve without the cooler getting in the way of the valve handle.

Finally, if you got the screen that goes specifically with that valve, the screen will attach to the inner threads of the ball valve. You may have noticed that there are threads on the outside and inside of the nipple.

If the screen nipple is the same size as the ball valve nipple, you might use a short union to join the two together.

I hope that this helps you.

Mark

Click to expand...

Thanks for the advice! I bought the wrong size screen initially. I exchanged it and everything is looking good.