Keggle cut not going so well ?

Yakima 728
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redrider736

redrider736

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Read as much as I could on the topic, seen what others have done. In the end I went with a Jig for a Angle Grinder. Thought this would be the best way to get a good clean uniform cut on all 3 Kegs.

Not sure what I did wrong, but the Angle Grinder (which I have owned for 8yrs but never used) burned up 3-4min into cutting my 1st Keg ??

Was I applying too much pressure/force ??

284990_10150230504815989_680060988_7557057_3176851_n.jpg



281680_10150230505440989_680060988_7557061_818394_n.jpg
 
Sorry man, but that unit was defective. Unless you were seriously stalling it out, aka its stopped turning but ur still gunning it. A new blade and a good grinder should cut through that keg like butter.
 
I knew to keep it "light", just scribe a line around, and just take my time with it.
 
I suspect that you have clamped the body of the grinder causing undo stress on the electric internals. Another possibility is that you have effectively blocked the fan vents that cool the motor during operation.

The body is only meant to handle the clamping pressure of human hands. Remember that screws are simple machines. They can apply enormous force.
 
CaptKaos said:
I suspect that you have clamped the body of the grinder causing undo stress on the electric internals. Another possibility is that you have effectively blocked the fan vents that cool the motor during operation.

The body is only meant to handle the clamping pressure of human hands. Remember that screws are simple machines. They can apply enormous force.
Click to expand...

+1. The clamps very well deformed the plastic body enough to shove the brushes against the commutator. The grinder might be able to be salvaged with a simple brush replacement.
 
I agree that it's most likely the clamp that killed it.

I used the screw in handle bolt hole to attach the grinder to the simple jig I built. Bolting the grinder to the jig really worked well for me.
 
JuanMoore said:
+1. The clamps very well deformed the plastic body enough to shove the brushes against the commutator. The grinder might be able to be salvaged with a simple brush replacement.
Click to expand...

Possible, unless the windings melted down and caused a hi pot or dead short. If the rotating components were binding, the motor was overheating. The motor would have to have a thermal protection system to protect this type of failure.

If the makita was still under warrantee, I would return it and keep my mouth shut. Collect a new one for free and fabricate an upright on the jig that would be small enough to get your hand around to hold the grinder in place with your hands. You can use ball bungy cords to help hold it in place, these bungys will not put undo stress on the rotating internals.
 
Catt22 said:
I agree that it's most likely the clamp that killed it.

I used the screw in handle bolt hole to attach the grinder to the simple jig I built. Bolting the grinder to the jig really worked well for me.
Click to expand...

+1. That is an excellent solution. :rockin:
 
It just HAD to be the jig to bust a Makita. On a side note, is that a grinding disc or a cutting disc? Looks like a grinding disc. :(
 
WoW this members group is great !! I was so worried that the Grinder was doing to slip that I may have over did it with the clamp ???

The Grinder was a freebie or "built" into the price with the purchase of a Hammer drill I bought way back. Grinder had a life of 5min LoL !!

Thanks All, I will keep you posted of any other tools I can F-UP
 
Did you penetrate all the way into the keg on your first cut? That'll cause the blade to want to follow a straighter line, and will result in a non-circular cut and perpendicular forces on the blade/bearings. I don't think it'll melt out the motor though, i'd be most concerned with a broken blade.
 
outside92129 said:
Did you penetrate all the way into the keg on your first cut? That'll cause the blade to want to follow a straighter line, and will result in a non-circular cut and perpendicular forces on the blade/bearings. I don't think it'll melt out the motor though, i'd be most concerned with a broken blade.
Click to expand...

Nope, went around 2-3 times slow. Think it was the clamp that did in the grinder.
 
Little update.

Went out and bought a used cheep grinder at a pawn shop for $10 bucks, used the same JIG that I made minus the Clamp, and it worked great. Took my time with all 3 Kegs.

285444_10150231430235989_680060988_7566327_3719078_n.jpg


283507_10150231427460989_680060988_7566272_5523218_n.jpg


My cuts were a bit rougher than I though in the end.
 
Looks great.
On a side note, I have a hammer drill/grinder combo as well. "KING" brand--super cheap. They suck. Mine was a freebie someone gave my dad and he never used it (because he has a makita). I thought I burned up the hammer drill drilling 1/2" holes into my deck for carriage bolts (pressure treated pine), but I think it just overheated because it still works (as well as it ever has, anyway).
 
CaptKaos said:
Possible, unless the windings melted down and caused a hi pot or dead short. If the rotating components were binding, the motor was overheating. The motor would have to have a thermal protection system to protect this type of failure.

If the makita was still under warrantee, I would return it and keep my mouth shut. Collect a new one for free and fabricate an upright on the jig that would be small enough to get your hand around to hold the grinder in place with your hands. You can use ball bungy cords to help hold it in place, these bungys will not put undo stress on the rotating internals.
Click to expand...

Some of us have a thing called integrity, and thus wouldn't feel right stealing from a company. Don't for a second think that lying on a warranty claim isn't stealing. It is.
 

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