coopers lager brew kit, 1st time brewer, worried!
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brussum
Well-Known Member
It's likely yeast and other particulate settling out of the wort. No worries...it's normal.
brussum
Well-Known Member
It looks like your fermenter is sitting on a countertop. Most larger yeast prefers to ferment at considerably cooler temperatures. What is the fermentation temp specified on your instructions or yeast package?
brussum
Well-Known Member
That's pretty warm for a lager yeast. Most prefer to be below 13'C for a clean ferment. It's interesting that Coopers recommends a higher temp, but I don't know much about their yeast or product line. Perhaps they recommend a higher temp so the customer doesn't have to worry about using a fermentation chamber.
Check this thread.
All looks completely normal to me. Yeast and/or hot break proteins.
boscobeans
Well-Known Member
It is perfectly normal.The cooper's lager is not a true lager as far as it really goes.
Keep the temperature where it is and DO NOT bottle it as the directions state.
Let it ferment for at least 7 days longer than they tell you.
It is not that important to remove the Krausen collar (if you are using it) but if you do, take it out after 3 days and try to do it quickly so as to not disturb the layer of CO2 that is keeping air from contacting the beer.(gentle)
A day or two before you are going to bottle it (provided the hydrometer readings are steady for at least 3 days) give the entire fermenter a couple of quick twists to shake the sediment off the inner ledge above the spigot (it will fall to the bottom.)
After using the spigot to draw off samples spray it with a NO-RINSE sanitizer (or vodka) to rinse it out.
When bottling the first ounce or two will have some sediment that settled into the spigot so just discard it.
Keep the fermenter covered and out of the light.
Good luck, you made beer.
bosco
Keep the temperature where it is and DO NOT bottle it as the directions state.
Let it ferment for at least 7 days longer than they tell you.
It is not that important to remove the Krausen collar (if you are using it) but if you do, take it out after 3 days and try to do it quickly so as to not disturb the layer of CO2 that is keeping air from contacting the beer.(gentle)
A day or two before you are going to bottle it (provided the hydrometer readings are steady for at least 3 days) give the entire fermenter a couple of quick twists to shake the sediment off the inner ledge above the spigot (it will fall to the bottom.)
After using the spigot to draw off samples spray it with a NO-RINSE sanitizer (or vodka) to rinse it out.
When bottling the first ounce or two will have some sediment that settled into the spigot so just discard it.
Keep the fermenter covered and out of the light.
Good luck, you made beer.
bosco
The Cooper's Original Series (you see me calling them "OS") lager can uses ale yeast. It's more of a light pale ale. I still use the older Cooper's micro brew FV,& don't get sediment settling in the spigot. It compacts well below that level. 19-20C (66.2-68F) is pretty good temp-wise for Cooper's ale yeast. Just keep the temp as steady as possible. Not to mention,cover that fermenter with a dark tee shirt or the like. It'll def get light skunked sitting on that counter top uncovered.
boscobeans
Well-Known Member
Sunlight as well as flourescent light will alter (in a bad way) the hop flavor of beer. That is why most beer is bottled in brown bottles.
Wrap the fermenter in a towel or tee shirt if it is in an area that is not dark.
bosco
Ever bought an imported beer in green bottles that tastes like cat wizz? That's what "light skunked",or simply referred to as skunked is.
The light breaks down the hop oil molecules to produce something about the same as skunk spray. Keeping the fermenter covered will prevent this. It also helps to stabilize temps a little between day/night.
The light breaks down the hop oil molecules to produce something about the same as skunk spray. Keeping the fermenter covered will prevent this. It also helps to stabilize temps a little between day/night.
Hi mycoe just got same kit. And I'm a first timer too. I have that on the bottom of my wort too. I've tasted mine after only 48 hrs and I must say I'm impressed with what I'm tasting. I've taken a gravity reading and its currently 1027, having started at 1045. Prob ill leave it a couple more days and I'm storing on top of my kitchen cupboard to get the temp within recommended range. I'm not too concerned about colour as its 1st time but just hope it tastes good. Best of luck with it let us know how u get on. Another quick question for people who have done this before. Can you use honey instead of sugar drops when bottling? Already looking forward to starting next one. Thanks
boscobeans
Well-Known Member
If you use honey or for that matter anything other than carbonating drops you will have a problem getting the correct aount of sugar (honey-whatever) into each bottle. If you want to use something other than the drops you should use a bottling bucket. You add your liquid sugar into the bucket and siphon the beer onto it so it mixes and is consistant throughout the bucket. If you added a sugar solution to the Cooper's fermenter you would have to stir it in (to get it mixed) and this would disturb the trub (sediment on the bottom) and it would get into your bottles.
bosco
bosco
You can,but it mostly ferments out,as it's basically glucose. The color of the Cooper's OS lager is golden with a very slight amber blush. I have some pics of it in my gallery as HB1. I also have a pic of it at 7 weeks in the Cooper's PET bottles with carb drops. The FG should be about 1.010-1.012,although my OG was 1.048. But 1.010 is typical.
Also,after a stable FG is measured,give it 3-7 days to clean up by products & settle out clear or slightly misty. You'll get better beer going into the bottles,which should number 30 with the 740ml (25.16oz) Cooper's PET bottles. And make sure you get the screw on caps really tight. They'll leak co2 from the head space if you don't. Otherwise,they're good bottles to use,as they also have a nylon coating on the inside according to Cooper's. This is intended to act as an o2 barrier.
Ande def do not use hot water to clean the bottles. They warp under heat. The lugs cast into the bottom of the bottles traps the yeast trub to make pouring easier,& can be blasted out with a bottle washer. Then soaked with a lil PBW solution,just a couple inches in the bottom for an hour or so. Then rise well.
Also,after a stable FG is measured,give it 3-7 days to clean up by products & settle out clear or slightly misty. You'll get better beer going into the bottles,which should number 30 with the 740ml (25.16oz) Cooper's PET bottles. And make sure you get the screw on caps really tight. They'll leak co2 from the head space if you don't. Otherwise,they're good bottles to use,as they also have a nylon coating on the inside according to Cooper's. This is intended to act as an o2 barrier.
Ande def do not use hot water to clean the bottles. They warp under heat. The lugs cast into the bottom of the bottles traps the yeast trub to make pouring easier,& can be blasted out with a bottle washer. Then soaked with a lil PBW solution,just a couple inches in the bottom for an hour or so. Then rise well.
boscobeans
Well-Known Member
Once again thanks for all the advice guys, nice to know there's someone else starting out with the same kit too 
so just to digest some things being said, if I take out the kriesler if that's its right name!! Allow the beer to ferment for 7 to 14 days until the readings are stable... then bottle and store for another 14 days or so??
so just to digest some things being said, if I take out the kriesler if that's its right name!! Allow the beer to ferment for 7 to 14 days until the readings are stable... then bottle and store for another 14 days or so??boscobeans
Well-Known Member
Once again thanks for all the advice guys, nice to know there's someone else starting out with the same kit too
For the first week or so after bottling keep the temperature in the 70 degree range (21 C) to allow carbonation. Put one in the fridge and try it. It will improve over the next couple of weeks (condition) and the flavors generally smooth out.
bosco
I bottled my first,the OS lager that came with my kit at about 15 days. 3 weeks would've been better for more clarity going into the bottles. Def 3 weeks in the bottles at 70F at least for this one. 2 weeks def isn't enough. Then a week in the fridge for decent head & carbonation. Not to mention,time for any chill haze to settle out.
After initial fermentation & the krausen dies down. Leaves less head space for o2 that way. That's the thinking behind the design.
