canyonbrewer
Well-Known Member
final touch on my control panel...some tags:
My E-HERMS Build - LOTS OF PICS
- Thread starter canyonbrewer
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rsklhm10
Well-Known Member
After looking at it again, you are correct. My apologies.
canyonbrewer
Well-Known Member
PleasantValleyHops
Well-Known Member
final touch on my control panel...some tags:
everything looks great!! cant wait to complete my setup as well, quick question tho. ive read pretty much all post and cant seem to remember if you posted the size of your control panel. looks on the smaller size but everything i read is that you have to go atleast 16x16 to fit everything. hoping i can use my 12x12x8 i got for free already powdered coated but seems small..
thanks
great biuld!!
canyonbrewer
Well-Known Member
Mine is 12x12x8
PleasantValleyHops
Well-Known Member
canyonbrewer said:
Sweet. Thanks
canyonbrewer said:
I found a "decent" deal on a 12x12x4 box. I assume that isn't deep enough, but just want to confirm.
Thanks.
iijakii
Well-Known Member
PIDs are about 4" long. Don't do a 4" deep case.
That's what I assumed, which is why it's still on the shelf in the store. Thanks!
summerofgeorge
Well-Known Member
This is a great setup! I have a few questions. How long are your temp probes? I'd like to mount mine like you did going straight into the tee and have the hose coming straight down. I wasn't sure if you used 1.5", 2", or 2.5" probes from Auber.
Also, any issues with mounting your panel so it opens up? I was debating doing that so I could have a better layout but people recommended to just make it work opening to the right or left.
Also, any issues with mounting your panel so it opens up? I was debating doing that so I could have a better layout but people recommended to just make it work opening to the right or left.
This thread pumps me up about my build.
Have you yet determined why you're getting a 4-5 deg difference with your thermocouple?
Did you extend the wires or use any plugs or connectors between your sensor & your PID controller?
If you did that could be the source of the error.
Thermocouples are made from the junction of 2 - wire consisting of different alloys. The junction can be as simple as twisting the two wire together but is normally made by fusing them. The junction is normally enclosed in a stainless steel tube but this isn't a requirement unless the medium being measured will react with the wires.
When you extend the wires from a thermocouple you MUST use THERMOCOUPLE wire Made of the same alloys. K - wire with a K - thermocouple. If you use another alloy such as plain copper you have formed another junction. This junction is another thermocouple in your system & can cause errors. A common way to calibrate your sensors / controller is to use an ice bath & set the reading to 32-F or 0-C. If you use copper wire to extend the thermocouple leads you now actually have 3 separate thermocouples in series. From the meter's positive terminal through the sensor back to the meter's negative terminal it'd look like this:
Meter + to copper to (Cu / TC+ junction) TC+ wire to (TC+ / TC- junction) TC- wire to (TC- / Cu junction) copper wire to Meter -
Each junction can be sensing a different temperature & can generate errors in your readings. If you calibrated the system with the sensor in a 32-F ice bath the other 2 junctions are measuring ambient or possibly some other temperature. Now start your heating your kettles where your sensor is. When you put all of these junctions in series you get a real mess.
Ideally you want to make sure you have the correct sensor, wires, connectors, etc. Then calibrate at 32-F / 0-C water ice bath and at 212-F / 100-C boiling water. If all is well you shouldn't have errors in your readings. I would invest in a certified scientific mercury thermometer to verify the mid point readings.
You can also purchase thermocouple plugs & connectors.
McMaster Carr sell thermocouple supplies in small quantities.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#thermocouple-cable/=hq7i5w
Did you extend the wires or use any plugs or connectors between your sensor & your PID controller?
If you did that could be the source of the error.
Thermocouples are made from the junction of 2 - wire consisting of different alloys. The junction can be as simple as twisting the two wire together but is normally made by fusing them. The junction is normally enclosed in a stainless steel tube but this isn't a requirement unless the medium being measured will react with the wires.
When you extend the wires from a thermocouple you MUST use THERMOCOUPLE wire Made of the same alloys. K - wire with a K - thermocouple. If you use another alloy such as plain copper you have formed another junction. This junction is another thermocouple in your system & can cause errors. A common way to calibrate your sensors / controller is to use an ice bath & set the reading to 32-F or 0-C. If you use copper wire to extend the thermocouple leads you now actually have 3 separate thermocouples in series. From the meter's positive terminal through the sensor back to the meter's negative terminal it'd look like this:
Meter + to copper to (Cu / TC+ junction) TC+ wire to (TC+ / TC- junction) TC- wire to (TC- / Cu junction) copper wire to Meter -
Each junction can be sensing a different temperature & can generate errors in your readings. If you calibrated the system with the sensor in a 32-F ice bath the other 2 junctions are measuring ambient or possibly some other temperature. Now start your heating your kettles where your sensor is. When you put all of these junctions in series you get a real mess.
Ideally you want to make sure you have the correct sensor, wires, connectors, etc. Then calibrate at 32-F / 0-C water ice bath and at 212-F / 100-C boiling water. If all is well you shouldn't have errors in your readings. I would invest in a certified scientific mercury thermometer to verify the mid point readings.
You can also purchase thermocouple plugs & connectors.
McMaster Carr sell thermocouple supplies in small quantities.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#thermocouple-cable/=hq7i5w
Have you yet determined why you're getting a 4-5 deg difference with your thermocouple? *
Did you extend the wires or use any plugs or connectors between your sensor & your PID controller?
If you did that could be the source of the error. *
Thermocouples are made from the junction of 2 - wire consisting of different alloys. *The junction can be as simple as twisting the two wire together but is normally made by fusing them. *The junction is normally enclosed in a stainless steel tube but this isn't a requirement unless the medium being measured will react with the wires. *
When you extend the wires from a thermocouple you MUST use THERMOCOUPLE wire Made of the same alloys. *K - wire with a K - thermocouple. * If you use another alloy such as plain copper you have formed another junction. *This junction is another thermocouple in your system & can cause errors. *A common way to calibrate your sensors / controller is to use an ice bath & set the reading to 32-F or 0-C. * If you use copper wire to extend the thermocouple leads you now actually have 3 separate thermocouples in series. * From the meter's positive terminal through the sensor back to the meter's negative terminal it'd look like this:
Meter + to copper to (Cu / TC+ junction) TC+ wire to (TC+ / TC- junction) TC- wire to (TC- / Cu junction) copper wire to Meter -
Each junction can be sensing a different temperature & can generate errors in your readings. *If you calibrated the system with the sensor in a 32-F ice bath the other 2 junctions are measuring ambient or possibly some other temperature. *Now start your heating your kettles where your sensor is. *When you put all of these junctions in series you get a real mess. *
Ideally you want to make sure you have the correct sensor, wires, connectors, etc. *Then calibrate at 32-F / 0-C water ice bath and at 212-F */ 100-C boiling water. * If all is well you shouldn't have errors in your readings. *I would invest in a certified scientific mercury thermometer to verify the mid point readings. *
*
You can also purchase thermocouple plugs & connectors.
McMaster Carr sell thermocouple supplies in small quantities.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#thermocouple-cable/=hq7i5w
Did you extend the wires or use any plugs or connectors between your sensor & your PID controller?
If you did that could be the source of the error. *
Thermocouples are made from the junction of 2 - wire consisting of different alloys. *The junction can be as simple as twisting the two wire together but is normally made by fusing them. *The junction is normally enclosed in a stainless steel tube but this isn't a requirement unless the medium being measured will react with the wires. *
When you extend the wires from a thermocouple you MUST use THERMOCOUPLE wire Made of the same alloys. *K - wire with a K - thermocouple. * If you use another alloy such as plain copper you have formed another junction. *This junction is another thermocouple in your system & can cause errors. *A common way to calibrate your sensors / controller is to use an ice bath & set the reading to 32-F or 0-C. * If you use copper wire to extend the thermocouple leads you now actually have 3 separate thermocouples in series. * From the meter's positive terminal through the sensor back to the meter's negative terminal it'd look like this:
Meter + to copper to (Cu / TC+ junction) TC+ wire to (TC+ / TC- junction) TC- wire to (TC- / Cu junction) copper wire to Meter -
Each junction can be sensing a different temperature & can generate errors in your readings. *If you calibrated the system with the sensor in a 32-F ice bath the other 2 junctions are measuring ambient or possibly some other temperature. *Now start your heating your kettles where your sensor is. *When you put all of these junctions in series you get a real mess. *
Ideally you want to make sure you have the correct sensor, wires, connectors, etc. *Then calibrate at 32-F / 0-C water ice bath and at 212-F */ 100-C boiling water. * If all is well you shouldn't have errors in your readings. *I would invest in a certified scientific mercury thermometer to verify the mid point readings. *
*
You can also purchase thermocouple plugs & connectors.
McMaster Carr sell thermocouple supplies in small quantities.
http://www.mcmaster.com/#thermocouple-cable/=hq7i5w
bgarino said:
I you're asking about mine, it's pretty close to today's Sabco Brew Magic frame. Mine is an older one, pretty early.
http://brewmagic.com/products/brew-magic-parts/brew-magic-frame
Mine is 19" deep, the rest of the measurements are pretty close. I'm going to chop the height down as mine is way too tall and I'm going to get some welding done on it to make it a single tier stand.
If not, I'll shut up and stay in my corner.
DrPhilGood
Well-Known Member
did you notice poor flow rate with the trub filter? I am having issues with a poor flow rate but I think it might be something wrong with my dip tube.
edit: Also do you notice a problem with priming the pumps? I had to add a tee with another valve to help bleed the air out.
edit: Also do you notice a problem with priming the pumps? I had to add a tee with another valve to help bleed the air out.
canyonbrewer
Well-Known Member
using this probe - http://www.auberins.com/index.php?m...id=189&zenid=6bebd5830b288462d12dbebbe2910f69
mounted the panel so the door opens up. love it that way. when I wired it, I would just use a piece of wood to prop it open. haven't really opened since i got it all working.
canyonbrewer
Well-Known Member
used the trub filter on 4 batches so far.
only had an issue with an ipa. used alot of pellet hops 8+ oz. probably will use whole hops for ipas in the future.
priming with pump after the filter is a bit tricker..just seems to take longer to get a steady flow out of the filter.
canyonbrewer
Well-Known Member
the probes are fine....reading temp correctly.
the 4-5 degree differential is between the HLT water temp and the mash temp. seems like a thinner mash brings that differential down. hasn't been a big deal...i just set the HLT higher. I monitor on the output of the mash tun. output of the herms coil/input of the mash tun is almost exactly equal to HLT water temp.
i have used a xlr connector to extend the length of one of my wires....in my experience, it doesn't change the temps at all
DrPhilGood
Well-Known Member
I noticed on our set up we have a similar temp difference between the HLT temps and the mash temp. I have the Mash probe controlling the HLT element and I noticed the mash temp gets within 4-7 degrees of the target temp on the PID and kind of levels out. Doesn't want to go higher unless I adjust the PID.
jcc4507fly
Well-Known Member
- Joined
- Dec 27, 2012
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Almost forgot about this build! Been watching for a long time. Finally getting around to building my own setup. It will be a bit more ghetto than yours. Wondering how you are liking your setup? If you made any changes/or if you would make changes if you were to do it all over? Also what if anything have you learned over the years as far as your setup goes. Thanks!!
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