Liquid to Liquid Corny jumper need help!

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akthor

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So I just kegged an Octoberfest and put it on the gas to carb gonna carb it in 6 days so 30psi for 36 hrs then down to 12 psi for the remainder. Done it before and it works.

Problem is that before I have just carried the keg upstairs and it was clean clear beer. But that was with a Nut Brown Ale that sat 30 days in primary. So 30 days and a dark beer.

This Octoberfest sat 20 days in Primary and its a clearer beer. Also this keg will be going on a 30 minute car ride on bumpy Maine roads to the party location.

I want to bring the clearest beer I can. I am thinking after the beer carbs I jump it to a clean keg.

I bent the dip tube so that it's off the bottom of the keg about 1/2 - 3/4" so I figure I will leave what sediment I can in the time allowed behind.

So first problem. When do I tranfer? The day before? Right before? When is best?

2nd and bigger problem (ball lock keg) I only have one liquid (black) disconnect, I have a bunch of gas (grey) ones but only one liquid one. I have been waiting for my LHBS to get more in but so far no luck and I have no reason to hope they will before I need it this week.

So whats the best way to transfer with what I got? Ideas?
 
You might be able to move the liquid out diptube over to the gas in port in the receiving keg. I haven't confirmed this but if you have an extra keg you could check first. I would transfer the day before, giving the most time for clearing.
 
Do you have a picnic tap? I would use this and get a hose thats long enough, and pour directly into the bottom of the new keg off the tap. First, purge all the air out of the keg with co2. Use a low pressure for moving the beer and turn it up just before the foaming gets out of control. Let us know how you handle this and how it worked. I plan to transfer clear beer from one keg to another in the future. I brought a pilsner to a party once, and it was cloudy as all hell. It didn't taste that great either.
 
+1 Just hook up your 1 liquid QD to a hose long enough to get to the bottom of the new keg. It'll get covered in beer before too long and if you're taking it to a party, you're probably not too worried about oxidation. This is after all how most people rack from primary anyway ;)
 
You really don't want to free air "rack" carbonated beer without pressurizing the recipient keg. It will lose carbonation and it will foam so bad you won't even be able to fill the second keg all the way.

I would move the beer to the clean keg the day of the party. The longer you let the sediment settle in the cold, the better. When you go to jump to the new keg, do not even look at the donor keg let alone bump it. Fill the new sanitized keg with CO2 first and vent. Pressurize it to 12psi.

Make up a liquid qd to gas qd hose set, any length.

Attach the liquid end to the donor keg and gas one to the clean keg. Flip the new keg over and rest it on two bricks or something to leave clearance for your connectors. Connect co2 to donor keg set to 12psi. Vent the new keg by pressing in on the liquid poppet for a second just to lower its pressure a tiny bit. Beer will flow. Keep venting every once in a while to keep it flowing.

This is the same idea as counter pressure bottle filling and you will not lose any carbonation. Beer will flow into the new keg up through the liquid port and you will be venting through the long dip tube.
 
You really don't want to free air "rack" carbonated beer without pressurizing the donor. It will lose carbonation and it will foam so bad you won't even be able to fill the second keg all the way.

I would move the beer to the clean keg the day of the party. The longer you let the sediment settle in the cold, the better. When you go to jump to the new keg, do not even look at the donor keg let alone bump it. Fill the new sanitized keg with CO2 first and vent. Pressurize it to 12psi. Make up a liquid to liquid hose set, length doesn't matter. Attach one end to the donor keg and one to the clean keg. Put your gas QD onto the donor keg set to 12psi. Pull the vent on the donor keg for a second just to lower its pressure a tiny bit. Beer will flow. Keep pulling the vent every once in a while to keep it flowing.

Edit:
I need to read gooder...
 
20 days in primary for an Oktoberfest? Is this an Ale imitation of an Oktoberfest?

Anyway Bobby's method sounds like a winner.
 
You mean beer will flow in the short gas tube and gas will vent out the long dip tube (liquid out) of the keg I am filling upside down right?


You really don't want to free air "rack" carbonated beer without pressurizing the recipient keg. It will lose carbonation and it will foam so bad you won't even be able to fill the second keg all the way.

I would move the beer to the clean keg the day of the party. The longer you let the sediment settle in the cold, the better. When you go to jump to the new keg, do not even look at the donor keg let alone bump it. Fill the new sanitized keg with CO2 first and vent. Pressurize it to 12psi.

Make up a liquid qd to gas qd hose set, any length.

Attach the liquid end to the donor keg and gas one to the clean keg. Flip the new keg over and rest it on two bricks or something to leave clearance for your connectors. Connect co2 to donor keg set to 12psi. Vent the new keg by pressing in on the liquid poppet for a second just to lower its pressure a tiny bit. Beer will flow. Keep venting every once in a while to keep it flowing.

This is the same idea as counter pressure bottle filling and you will not lose any carbonation. Beer will flow into the new keg up through the liquid port and you will be venting through the long dip tube.
 
Yeah, based on the restraint of only having a single liquid out qd, it's better to fill the keg upside down. If you could make a liquid to liquid hose set, you wouldn't have to invert the keg.
 
I have extra kegs what if I replace the short gas dip tube with a long gas dip tube? Then I wouldn't have to invert the keg? Is that possible?
 
It is, but then when you serve, you'll be blowing CO2 down to the bottom and potentially stirring up any sediment that made its way into the keg. Maybe it wouldn't be a problem at all and I'm just extra paranoid. I guess you'd be fine either way.
 
After I make the transfer can I just purge the keg then pull off the post and replace the long dip tube with the original short gas tube?
 
After I make the transfer can I just purge the keg then pull off the post and replace the long dip tube with the original short gas tube?

Yes, that will work, just sanitize all of it and use the pressure relief valve instead of the liquid post to relieve pressure.
 
Just do a liquid post to open tube into the bottom of the keg. If done gently, there will be minimal carbonation lost and nearly zero foam. Just go slow (small head diffrence between the vessels).
 
Bobby-
I bet I can though with less than 1" of foam. How about a wager. I could use a weldless sight glass. I can put up a gift cert, send bottles of Pliny, or???
 
Side note (and I'm not sure it will help the OP).

Racking canes like you buy at the LHBS just fit into the end of a picnic tap.

Two picnic taps and a short length of broken racking can can be pressed into service as a liquid-liquid jumper, when necessary. I've used this trick for keg-to-keg transfers before.

Pressurize both kegs, hook together and open both taps to equalize pressure on the kegs. Then, put the gas on the donor keg and use the relief valve on the recipient keg to let the nectar flow from keg to keg.

Don't forget to close the picnic taps before you take them off the kegs.
 
Here's my method.

I've done this many times. Take 6 to 8 feet of 3/16 ID beer line and put on black ball lock connectors. You want the length to prevent foam.

Take a clean and sanitized keg and purge it. Then pressurize it to 5 lb. psi. Vent your beer keg, then pressurize it to 5 lb. psi as well.

Connect one black ball lock to your full keg first, then connect the other end to your empty keg. This is beer out to beer out.

Once connected, slowly vent the empty keg and beer will start to flow.

This works like a charm for me on filling small 2.5 gallon kegs for parties. It works with carbonated and yet to be carbonated beer.
 
I can't do this since I have only one black connector as I posted in my OP.

I will replace the short gas dip tube in the recieving keg with a long dip tube from another keg.

Hook up the liquid to gas jumper I will make. And transfer beer as described below. When done I will purge the keg take out the long dip tube and replace with the original gas tube. Pressurize and purge the keg a few times to make sure all air is out. Pressurize it to 30 psi for the trip to the party.

Seems to be the best way to minimize losing Co2 without filling the keg upside down.

Sound good?

Here's my method.

I've done this many times. Take 6 to 8 feet of 3/16 ID beer line and put on black ball lock connectors. You want the length to prevent foam.

Take a clean and sanitized keg and purge it. Then pressurize it to 5 lb. psi. Vent your beer keg, then pressurize it to 5 lb. psi as well.

Connect one black ball lock to your full keg first, then connect the other end to your empty keg. This is beer out to beer out.

Once connected, slowly vent the empty keg and beer will start to flow.

This works like a charm for me on filling small 2.5 gallon kegs for parties. It works with carbonated and yet to be carbonated beer.
 
I can't do this since I have only one black connector as I posted in my OP.

I will replace the short gas dip tube in the recieving keg with a long dip tube from another keg.

Hook up the liquid to gas jumper I will make. And transfer beer as described below. When done I will purge the keg take out the long dip tube and replace with the original gas tube. Pressurize and purge the keg a few times to make sure all air is out. Pressurize it to 30 psi for the trip to the party.

Seems to be the best way to minimize losing Co2 without filling the keg upside down.

Sound good?

Why not just put a Gas In post on the Beer in, transfer the beer, then put the Beer Out post back on?
 
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