FastFerment conical

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Quick question: I have my first batch (Bavarian Hefe) going, and it has about 7-8" of trub at the bottom of the cone, with the ball totally full. Is the yeast sitting on top of the trub (above the ball), or would it have settled to the bottom of the ball (7 days in primary so far)?
 
Quick question: I have my first batch (Bavarian Hefe) going, and it has about 7-8" of trub at the bottom of the cone, with the ball totally full. Is the yeast sitting on top of the trub (above the ball), or would it have settled to the bottom of the ball (7 days in primary so far)?

ya, you may need a couple of ball changes to get it out, but when you think it's done, change out the collection ball a couple times. a best practice is to try to limit trub, etc. just so that it's clear by the second ball change. I have had the exact issue and my beer turned out just fine. Even when I thought it wouldnt fall to the collection ball, it eventually did. Gravity kills. :)
 
ya, you may need a couple of ball changes to get it out, but when you think it's done, change out the collection ball a couple times. a best practice is to try to limit trub, etc. just so that it's clear by the second ball change. I have had the exact issue and my beer turned out just fine. Even when I thought it wouldnt fall to the collection ball, it eventually did. Gravity kills. :)

Thanks for the response, redwing!
I wasn't too worried about trub being this is a hef, and my goal is to re-pitch this yeast onto a new wort on bottling day. That's why I'm wondering where the yeast will be sitting when I change out the ball(s).
 
Quick question: I have my first batch (Bavarian Hefe) going, and it has about 7-8" of trub at the bottom of the cone, with the ball totally full. Is the yeast sitting on top of the trub (above the ball), or would it have settled to the bottom of the ball (7 days in primary so far)?

No worries. My first batch in the FF I didn't even try to manage the post boil sediment. Here is a batch of IPA that had about 6 oz of hops added during the boil. You can see the trub just above the upper ring on the stand. I think I dumped 2 or 3 collection balls worth of trub/yeast prior to racking into the bottling bucket.

Wait until the end of the ferment. When you take your first gravity reading to check if the ferment is done, change the collection ball. Wait two or three days, take another gravity reading and change collections ball again (if needed). Wait another couple of days and rack into your bottling bucket/keg.

Full fermenter.jpg
 
So I just finished up my first batch with this thing, a Bavarian Hefe that was 1.050 OG and finished up at 1.013 in 8 days. I just love how convenient this conical is! I've had no issues with the lid, it comes on and off smoothly. My only real complaint was having to stick a wine thief in from the top to get gravity samples. Anyway, I dumped one ball of trub, stuck it back on, let it refill and settle for a couple hours, then instead of messing with the bottling bucket, added my racking sugar and just hooked up the supplied hose and racked the whole batch using the ball valve. I put 4.5 gallons into growlers and the last gallon went into bombers. Sample tasted great, can't wait for this to carb up!
 
So I just finished up my first batch with this thing, a Bavarian Hefe that was 1.050 OG and finished up at 1.013 in 8 days. I just love how convenient this conical is! I've had no issues with the lid, it comes on and off smoothly. My only real complaint was having to stick a wine thief in from the top to get gravity samples. Anyway, I dumped one ball of trub, stuck it back on, let it refill and settle for a couple hours, then instead of messing with the bottling bucket, added my racking sugar and just hooked up the supplied hose and racked the whole batch using the ball valve. I put 4.5 gallons into growlers and the last gallon went into bombers. Sample tasted great, can't wait for this to carb up!

Man... you are a rebel... ;)

Good luck!!
 
Thanks for the response, redwing!
I wasn't too worried about trub being this is a hef, and my goal is to re-pitch this yeast onto a new wort on bottling day. That's why I'm wondering where the yeast will be sitting when I change out the ball(s).

If you want to make sure to get most all of the yeast, save the contents of the last two collection balls and combine the contents into a single slurry then wash your yeast as described on several threads.
I have not actually done this yet but plan to soon.
 
I saved the contents of the second ball. The first ball was so packed with trub and yeast it didn't look to have any liquid at all in it.
That second ball sat refrigerated for three weeks. Last Thursday I poured the beer off the top and pitched the remaining slurry into my starter which was pitched that evening about 10pm. Had a visible thick kreuson the next morning. I'd say there was plenty of viable yeast cells in there.
 
Did everyone use the supplied bolts on the wall mounts? I used them and am worried about them pulling out, and one of them I twisted the head of the bolt off trying to tighten it in a stud using a socket. I thought about bolting it to a 2X6 that is the length to span across three studs and putting 6 bolts in to the 2X6(2 on each stud).
 
Did everyone use the supplied bolts on the wall mounts? I used them and am worried about them pulling out, and one of them I twisted the head of the bolt off trying to tighten it in a stud using a socket. I thought about bolting it to a 2X6 that is the length to span across three studs and putting 6 bolts in to the 2X6(2 on each stud).

I used some other lag bolts I had laying around, so no I didn't try the supplied ones. Good to know the heads torque off easily...
 
Did everyone use the supplied bolts on the wall mounts? I used them and am worried about them pulling out, and one of them I twisted the head of the bolt off trying to tighten it in a stud using a socket. I thought about bolting it to a 2X6 that is the length to span across three studs and putting 6 bolts in to the 2X6(2 on each stud).

I drilled pilot holes and used the supplied lags without issue. But I've seen others comment about breaking them off as well.
 
I drilled pilot holes and used the supplied lags without issue. But I've seen others comment about breaking them off as well.


I did the same with no problem. Cinched them down hard. But hearing this worries me. I might just replace them with some better quality lags. Jeez!
 
I did the same with no problem. Cinched them down hard. But hearing this worries me. I might just replace them with some better quality lags. Jeez!
 
I did the same with no problem. Cinched them down hard. But hearing this worries me. I might just replace them with some better quality lags. Jeez!

If they're in and tight, I would leave them. Otherwise you're taking a chance on wringing the heads off trying to remove them...
 
Well, since my original Fast Fermenter was stolen I never got to use it. I've been following this thread though to see what everyone has thought of theirs and decided it was still a good choice for small or double batches. So, I ordered two more the other night!

I swear my beer is going to be some of the most expensive stuff around! This hobby can be expensive but I do love it!
 
Well, since my original Fast Fermenter was stolen I never got to use it. I've been following this thread though to see what everyone has thought of theirs and decided it was still a good choice for small or double batches. So, I ordered two more the other night!

I swear my beer is going to be some of the most expensive stuff around! This hobby can be expensive but I do love it!

How was it stolen?

I finaly bolted mine to the 2X6 and used 5/16 lags to bolt it to the wall seems real sturdy now.
 
How was it stolen?

Contractor (we think) working on my house walked off with it. They were the only ones with the keys and there was no forced entry. Back door was open 3-4 inches when I got home and my fermenter along with a bunch of other stuff was taken.

I'll probably weld up a mobile stand for my new ones once they arrive and I have a chance to check them out.

I'm also modifying a 15 gallon Inductor tank so I can do 10 gallon batches as well. There's a thread in the DIY section about this.

This way, I can do both 5 and 10 gallon batches or have 15 gallons fermenting at the same time. The double FastFermenters will allow me to split the brew with different yeasts.
 
I hate to hear that, its said that you cant trust anyone anymore. You pay someone to come into your house and they take what they want.
 
Well, What do you that have been using these fast fermentors think about them? Are they worth it? I'm a first time brewer looking at options for my set up. I'd like to go right into kegs as apposed to bottles as my entry into brewing. I'm thinking labor savings and a little expense savings. It seems like spending about $15 on a bucket then all the other kit needed for the ferment bucket... Is my money better spent on a system like this? Do they seem like they will last longer than a few years? I like what I'm reading so far....
 
Well, What do you that have been using these fast fermentors think about them? Are they worth it? I'm a first time brewer looking at options for my set up. I'd like to go right into kegs as apposed to bottles as my entry into brewing. I'm thinking labor savings and a little expense savings. It seems like spending about $15 on a bucket then all the other kit needed for the ferment bucket... Is my money better spent on a system like this? Do they seem like they will last longer than a few years? I like what I'm reading so far....

I just used mine the first time yesterday. I like the idea of being able to get the trub off without having to transfer, Also you can bottle/keg straight from the FF. Its pretty durable seems like it will last as long as any bucket. I would look into different bolts for it. like I said before I twisted a head off of one bolt, so I found a 2X6 that would span across three studs bolted the brackets to the 2X6 and used bigger lag bolts to attach 2X6 to the studs. That thing is not going to move now. It hasn't started bubbling yet but there is some sediment in the bottom of the ball. I will post again when it finishes.
 
Thanks lstewartff! Good call on the bolts! I rarely use the screws and bolts supplied as they usually seem inferior.
 
Well, What do you that have been using these fast fermentors think about them? Are they worth it? I'm a first time brewer looking at options for my set up. I'd like to go right into kegs as apposed to bottles as my entry into brewing. I'm thinking labor savings and a little expense savings. It seems like spending about $15 on a bucket then all the other kit needed for the ferment bucket... Is my money better spent on a system like this? Do they seem like they will last longer than a few years? I like what I'm reading so far....


You will still need all of the equipment regardless if you are kegging or bottling. You still need a fermenter which is either a bucket or a conical (which is what the FastFerment is).

Both the bucket and the fast ferment use an air lock, a drain, etc. so the only difference is the advantage of the conical for clearer beer, easier draining, the ability to recycle your yeast, etc.

After you ferment you still need to put the beer into a container whether it's bottle or Kegs. You'll spend approximately $300 more to get a Keg setup over bottling so this is why most people bottle to start. Plus it's easier to carry and share bottles with your friends.

The nice thing about the FastFerment is the fact that you can get a normally costly conical fermenter at a reasonable price. Yes they are much more expensive than a bucket but they are 1/4 the cost of your cheapest stainless conical.
 
I am having a issue with my seals leaking- I have taken it apart and changed the Teflon tape twice now. The last time using the heavy duty blue stuff. Anyone else having this issue?
 
I havent had that problem yet but i just got mine. Hope that i never have that problem. Its still leaking even after using the heavy duty tape?
 
Yup - running down the sides of the ball and dripping all over the floor
 
I am having a issue with my seals leaking- I have taken it apart and changed the Teflon tape twice now. The last time using the heavy duty blue stuff. Anyone else having this issue?

I had to use two pair of channel locks to tighten the crap out of the union fitting. Is yours leaking from the union or from the male threads on the bottom of the conical?
 
I've not had any leaks from mine. I did read that you must run the teflon tape in the direction of the thread, otherwise it will leak.

I did spend a lot of time cleaning up the threads. The fermenter is obviously molded in two halves, and there was a lot of extra plastic around the join. I took a utility knife and cleaned everything up before I assembled the fermenter. I could easlily see how it would leak if the threads were not cleaned up.

Also, I replaced the stock brass thermowell with a stainless thermowell from brewers hardware.
 
I've not had any leaks from mine. I did read that you must run the teflon tape in the direction of the thread, otherwise it will leak.

I did spend a lot of time cleaning up the threads. The fermenter is obviously molded in two halves, and there was a lot of extra plastic around the join. I took a utility knife and cleaned everything up before I assembled the fermenter. I could easlily see how it would leak if the threads were not cleaned up.

Also, I replaced the stock brass thermowell with a stainless thermowell from brewers hardware.

I also cleaned up the threads quite a bit. I didn't have any liquid leaks but my lids didn't seal well. One of the two fermenters I have didn't pass any CO2 through the airlock. I assume it mostly just exited through the threads on the lid. Of course the lids doesn't have teflon tape and the gasket that is supplied is pretty worthless. Still trying to figure out what to replace that with.
 
I also cleaned up the threads quite a bit. I didn't have any liquid leaks but my lids didn't seal well. One of the two fermenters I have didn't pass any CO2 through the airlock. I assume it mostly just exited through the threads on the lid. Of course the lids doesn't have teflon tape and the gasket that is supplied is pretty worthless. Still trying to figure out what to replace that with.

If you figure out what to use for a seal on the lid let us know. I would like to replace that seal also.
 
i also cleaned up the threads quite a bit. I didn't have any liquid leaks but my lids didn't seal well. One of the two fermenters i have didn't pass any co2 through the airlock. I assume it mostly just exited through the threads on the lid. Of course the lids doesn't have teflon tape and the gasket that is supplied is pretty worthless. Still trying to figure out what to replace that with.

Yeah. the tops don't seal worth a crap on these things...

My wife had some foam sheets that are used for crafts (she's a pre-school teacher). I traced the factory gasket onto the sheet and cut one out. Then I took the foam sheet gasket and placed it in the top first with the factory gasket on top of it. The double thickness of the factory and foam sheet gasket sealed it.

gasket.jpg
 
Yeah. the tops don't seal worth a crap on these things...

My wife had some foam sheets that are used for crafts (she's a pre-school teacher). I traced the factory gasket onto the sheet and cut one out. Then I took the foam sheet gasket and placed it in the top first with the factory gasket on top of it. The double thickness of the factory and foam sheet gasket sealed it.

View attachment 249786

I'm worried about the porousness of that stuff. I'm thinking of getting a sheet or two of the red rubber gasket material from the home depot and cutting some to make a gasket for mine. It should be easy to sanitize in Starsan.
 
Hi I was wondering who has seen these and if they seem like a good buy.
http://www.thefastrack.ca/main/fastferment
90$ for a conical seems awesome. Any negatives with a plastic conical?

I have done 2 brews, doing a 3rd one this week. For me it's easer than using 6 gallon bucket. as for it being plastic it was in my price range, and being new to brewing. I like ball for catching the yeast. When I bottled the beer their was less settlement in the bottle. Plus has the a thermal insert so I plug a digital tempter controller probe in to the fermenter to keep the brew at the right fermenting tempter. It is a little more work cleaning it. If on a budget or just starting it's worth the money, if I keep on brewing I up grade to a stainless steel conical fermenter, because you do need be more careful when cleaning it, not scratch it.
anyway it works for me.
 
I'm worried about the porousness of that stuff. I'm thinking of getting a sheet or two of the red rubber gasket material from the home depot and cutting some to make a gasket for mine. It should be easy to sanitize in Starsan.

It doesn't come in contact with the wort and like everything else, a good cleaning and a dip in starsan before and after every use should prevent any issues. But everyone should do what makes sense or is comfortable to them.
 
It doesn't come in contact with the wort and like everything else, a good cleaning and a dip in starsan before and after every use should prevent any issues. But everyone should do what makes sense or is comfortable to them.

how does it not contact the wort? when the fermentation is most active and one needs a blowoff tube present I would think it would?

I just had a 10 gallon batch actually reach the airlock in my 12.5 gallons stout conical a week ago...
 
My only worry, as to why I haven't purchased one yet, is the gurgling that happens when you replace the sediment ball at the bottom. I have read that when you replace it with another, empty one, air gets put back into the conical and fermentation has already been finished. Isn't that a bad thing?
 
Eh, that may or may not be an issue, depends on your beer. An IPA might get affected, a red or stout not so much. You can always purge the ball with CO2 and keep covered with plastic wrap before screwing on. Then the bubbles are just CO2.
 
Normally your replacing the ball early on in fermentation to dump trub so O2 from the ball isn't a problem then.
 

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