Boiling wort...

Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum

Help Support Homebrew Talk - Beer, Wine, Mead, & Cider Brewing Discussion Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

BrooZer

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 5, 2007
Messages
340
Reaction score
0
Is it okay to use a turkery fryer to boil wort? I read that the aluminum pot is a no, no.

Also, when i was boiling 3 gallons of wort in a 22 qt stainless stockpot it was never a vigorous boil. More like bubbling in the center and that was that. Is that how its supposed to be? I have a gas stove
 
Yes a turkey fryer is good. You can use SS if you have it. If not use the Aluminium pot.

Forget asking the "Is Aluminium safe" question on here. The debates can get heated and you'll not get an answer one way or the other. Do some research and make your own mind up. When researching don't forget wort is acidic.

If you are doing extract then a vigorous boil is not as important. With AG you normally have more wort than required so you boil vigorously for multiple reasons but one is to reduce the amount of wort and increase the gravity. With extract you can just reduce the amount of water added or do a partial boil.
 
orfy said:
Yes a turkey fryer is good. You can use SS if you have it. If not use the Aluminium pot.

Forget asking the "Is Aluminium safe" question on here. The debates can get heated and you'll not get an answer one way or the other. Do some research and make your own mind up. When researching don't forget wort is acidic.

If you are doing extract then a vigorous boil is not as important. With AG you normally have more wort than required so you boil vigorously for multiple reasons but one is to reduce the amount of wort and increase the gravity. With extract you can just reduce the amount of water added or do a partial boil.

I wont be doing all grain, so its ok not to have a vigorous boil.. I seems weird that 3 gallons wont boil vigorously anyway.
 
The guy at my local home brew store sez that most Turkey fryers sold now days have the BTUs reduced because of the potential for a grease fire and Law suit. According to him if your regulator is 10psi you can get more heat by going with a 20 psi or an adjustable 30psi regulator.

Others on this site say forget that and get yourself a bayou classic banjo burner they come with a 30 psi reg.

I don't know but it makes sense.

If you do something like change reg. you will probably have to adjust the manifold intake.
 
I boiled my first wort last weekend on a cheap turkey fryer with a 30qt. aluminum pot. The BTUs were plenty. I was afraid to turn it up all the way because of the flames coming around the pot so it took 30 min to boil 3 gallons. I had no problem keeping a boil, and I won't be such a ***** next time and I'll crank that baby up!

But it does have a 10psi regulator, and I didnt see a problem with it. I would assume if you are doing a full boil you might need something better.
 
Id say go ss eventually, Aluminum definitely gives off a taste... although I would say as far as whether or not it's "safe" yes... Id do all in my power to switch to SS asap tho.
 
When you're ready to upgrade, get this badboy. You won't be sorry. Bayou Banjo Burner Homedeopt.com has them for $65 and normally free shipping

Banjo Burner.jpg
 
The Bayou looks pretty Bad Ass! What will it do for me other than boil my water faster? Like, will it get me a new beer when I'm empty? Cuz for $65 it better do something pretty damn sweet!
 
$65 is not bad for a burner, really. Look at the prices that the homebrew places charge - it's usually more for a less-stable design and far fewer IBUs. Turkey fryers are OK, but again, far fewer IBUs and less stability. It really does kick some MAJOR ass.
 
the_bird said:
$65 is not bad for a burner, really. Look at the prices that the homebrew places charge - it's usually more for a less-stable design and far fewer IBUs. Turkey fryers are OK, but again, far fewer IBUs and less stability. It really does kick some MAJOR ass.
BTUs? :confused:
 
I dunno 210,000 btu's seems like over kill to me. Maybe I'm wierd (no comments :drunk: ) but I'm more then happy with my 50,000 Bayou Classic. So happy in fact I have just bought a second one just so I dont have to try and lift my mash/sparge water over my head anymore. I'm making beer because I enjoy it I'm not trying to race the guy next door and see who can boil a swimming pool worth of water first
 
All I want to know is if itis worth buying/upgrading if all I am doing is my first few extracts with partial boils.

Sorry, but what are IBUs and what do they do for me?
 
I have a 185,000 BTU Bayou Classic burner, and it definately doesn't need to be up to full blast to get things going. Infact its hard to talk to your brew buddy if its up to full blast, sounds like the back end of a fighter jet.
 
SOB said:
All I want to know is if itis worth buying/upgrading if all I am doing is my first few extracts with partial boils.

Sorry, but what are IBUs and what do they do for me?

If you can find one on sale and ya got the spare cash it cant hurt. Think of it as an investment in future brewing. It will help you get better boils now with your partial boil batches and will be available to you when/if you move to full boils or all grain brewing.

IBU = International Bitter Unit, its a measurement of the bitterness in your beer that balances out the sweetness of the malt. The more IBU's the more bitter. IPA's are high (some go over 100) IBU beers and American lagers are low (25 is the max) IBU's
 
Back
Top