IPA and Yeast

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Nicknack said:
Your question mirrors one of my original ones. What I learned was yes, you can re-hydrate all the yeast together and then pitch it at the same time. Since my brew has a 1.070 OG and calls for 1.2 packets of yeast (according to Mr Malty), I will probably just use one. The beer after this one that I intend to make has a 1.086 OG and calls for 1.4 packets of yeast. That being the case, I'll probably just use 1 1/2 packets.
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If it's the same yeast, you could scoop out half the layer of sediment and dump your wort right on top of what's left.

Sorry, might be :off: there...
 
Just Brewed my first IPA yesterday I hit OG 1.066 and when I was at my LHBS they recommended I used two packages of US-05 saying that one would "work" but to be safe for high gravity two would be best.
 
TexasDroughtBrewery said:
Just Brewed my first IPA yesterday I hit OG 1.066 and when I was at my LHBS they recommended I used two packages of US-05 saying that one would "work" but to be safe for high gravity two would be best.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I've heard from many people that when you get beyond 1.060 (sort of a rule of thumb) is to use two packets in most situations. However, I don't understand the logic because when you do the calculations of how much yeast you need (i.e. Mr Malty), two packets isn't needed for a beer like what you made at 1.066. At 1.066, one yeast packet (1.1 to be exact) should only be what is needed. I don't really know the answer unfortunately.
 
Nicknack said:
Yeah, I've heard from many people that when you get beyond 1.060 (sort of a rule of thumb) is to use two packets in most situations. However, I don't understand the logic because when you do the calculations of how much yeast you need (i.e. Mr Malty), two packets isn't needed for a beer like what you made at 1.066. At 1.066, one yeast packet (1.1 to be exact) should only be what is needed. I don't really know the answer unfortunately.
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Since our other conditions may not be optimal (rehydration*, pitch temp, oxygenation, mfg date) overpitch is considered by most as the lesser evil compared to underpitch for dry yeast, and so we just round up to the next full pack (1.1 -> 2).

*Note: MrMalty assumes rehydration (from his book with Chris White, PhD: sprinkling directly into wort kills as many as 50% of dry yeast cells).

edit: Chris and Jamil's book "Yeast" can be found on Amazon http://amzn.to/1KVdSRl
 
Just what I've seen on this thread, people are all over the place on how much yeast to use. Some recommended that I only use one packet for a 1.070 brew while others are now saying they would use two for a 1.066 brew. Nonetheless, I appreciate all of the replies (most of them anyway).
 
As if there isn't enough contention already going on this thread, I'm gonna throw this out there too.

Brew Like a Monk talks about how some trappist breweries will purposely "underpitch" to get the ester character that they want. I believe this is also done with consideration to how much O2 they are or are not adding to their wort.
 
Nicknack said:
Just what I've seen on this thread, people are all over the place on how much yeast to use. Some recommended that I only use one packet for a 1.070 brew while others are now saying they would use two for a 1.066 brew. Nonetheless, I appreciate all of the replies (most of them anyway).
Click to expand...

Look at what the MFG date is on the yeast packet. US05 is 2 years prior from expiration date listed. The older the yeast the less viable cells. I.e. Just brewed an American stout yesterday with a SG of 1.064. I changed the date to match the expiration date in Mr Malty and it suggested a 1.4 packets of yeast ( 16.1 total grams). Luckily I had half a packet leftover of US05 from the previous weekend I brewed.
 
rwing7486 said:
Look at what the MFG date is on the yeast packet. US05 is 2 years prior from expiration date listed. The older the yeast the less viable cells. I.e. Just brewed an American stout yesterday with a SG of 1.064. I changed the date to match the expiration date in Mr Malty and it suggested a 1.4 packets of yeast ( 16.1 total grams). Luckily I had half a packet leftover of US05 from the previous weekend I brewed.
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Good info, rwing. I was wondering how you would know the production date when all that is listed is the expiration date. The US-05 yeast that I have at home, I believe expires on June, 2017. That being the case, the production date would be June, 2015? If so, that would take the needed amount of yeast for a 1.070 OG from 1.2 to 1.4 packets.

Also, if I use half a packet of yeast, is there a better way of storing the leftover yeast than putting in a zip-lock bag?
 
BrotherBock said:
As if there isn't enough contention already going on this thread, I'm gonna throw this out there too.

Brew Like a Monk talks about how some trappist breweries will purposely "underpitch" to get the ester character that they want. I believe this is also done with consideration to how much O2 they are or are not adding to their wort.
Click to expand...

I have read this as well. But the trappist breweries are most definitely not trying to create IPAs with a very "clean" fermentation profile.
 
Nicknack said:
Good info, rwing. I was wondering how you would know the production date when all that is listed is the expiration date. The US-05 yeast that I have at home, I believe expires on June, 2017. That being the case, the production date would be June, 2015? If so, that would take the needed amount of yeast for a 1.070 OG from 1.2 to 1.4 packets.

Also, if I use half a packet of yeast, is there a better way of storing the leftover yeast than putting in a zip-lock bag?
Click to expand...

That is the exact same time stamp I had on my US05 packet. Since they don't provide a day I used June 1st for my production date as this is the worst case.

For storage I follow what Fermentis suggests for open sachets- Air tight container with a 7 day shelf life when stored at 39 degrees F. What I have done in the past with no issues is when I use a partial sachet that I plan to use in the near future I fold the open sachet on itself and place in a small pyrex container with lid and place in my refrigerator. If I don't plan to brew within the next 7 days or if I have a beer that only requires 1 sachet I just throw the open sachet away,.
 
rwing7486 said:
That is the exact same time stamp I had on my US05 packet. Since they don't provide a day I used June 1st for my production date as this is the worst case.

For storage I follow what Fermentis suggests for open sachets- Air tight container with a 7 day shelf life when stored at 39 degrees F. What I have done in the past with no issues is when I use a partial sachet that I plan to use in the near future I fold the open sachet on itself and place in a small pyrex container with lid and place in my refrigerator. If I don't plan to brew within the next 7 days or if I have a beer that only requires 1 sachet I just throw the open sachet away,.
Click to expand...

Makes sense on all accounts. I will plan to brew my two higher gravity brew kits, that will need 1 1/2 packets, on consecutive weekends so that I can get away with just using a total of three packets.
 
Nicknack said:
Makes sense on all accounts. I will plan to brew my two higher gravity brew kits, that will need 1 1/2 packets, on consecutive weekends so that I can get away with just using a total of three packets.
Click to expand...

That's exactly what I did with my IPA and Stout. I brewed the IPA last weekend and the Stout yesterday.
 
Good to know and no worries - no fire here (at least for now). Back to a civil discussion. :)

I was thinking yesterday about ordering a Stone IPA clone kit. However, I saw in the directions that it uses liquid yeast. Based on what I've read on this thread (and other places on the forum) the reason they use liquid yeast is for a unique flavor profile outside of something like US-05, correct? This is an example where dry yeast can be limited at times, yes?

The instructions indicate that they use White Labs WLP001. Since I only have two batches under my belt, I would like to keep to dry yeast for now so I don't have to mess around with making a starter. That being the case, is there a dry yeast substitute that comes close to WLP001? I don't mind if the clone is slightly different than the original, as long as it is similar. I like the west coast, dry IPA style which is why I was thinking about getting the Stone beer kit.
 
I may have found my answer. According to the vendor's website for US-05:

"This strain is very close to Wyeast 1056 and White Labs WLP001 and can be used as a substitute."

That being the case, it looks like I could probably just have them substitute WLP001 for US-05 and I should be fine based on this info and the chart that I found here. The chart isn't an exhaustive list, but it does include some good info that others might find useful as I did.

Now if I could only find a dry yeast substitute for WLP810.
 
OH NO YOU DIDNT!

dont you go steering this thread into dry vs rehydrated territory
 
Yeah, the nerve of some people. :D

Ahhhh... my doorbell just rung and it's my Northern Brewer order (a second fermenting bottle - big mouth bubbler). Looks like I'm brewing that Double IPA tomorrow! :rockin:
 
Nicknack said:
Good to know and no worries - no fire here (at least for now). Back to a civil discussion. :)

I was thinking yesterday about ordering a Stone IPA clone kit. However, I saw in the directions that it uses liquid yeast. Based on what I've read on this thread (and other places on the forum) the reason they use liquid yeast is for a unique flavor profile outside of something like US-05, correct? This is an example where dry yeast can be limited at times, yes?

The instructions indicate that they use White Labs WLP001. Since I only have two batches under my belt, I would like to keep to dry yeast for now so I don't have to mess around with making a starter. That being the case, is there a dry yeast substitute that comes close to WLP001? I don't mind if the clone is slightly different than the original, as long as it is similar. I like the west coast, dry IPA style which is why I was thinking about getting the Stone beer kit.
Click to expand...

For some reason I thought Stone used WLP007. Either way I would not hesitate to use s05 in this beer.
 
Stone use a proprietary yeast strain, but recommend WLP007 as a close commercially available substitute.

If you don't want to use liquid yeast then US05 is the dry equivalent to WLP001 or Wyeast 1056
 

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