overgrownmoose
Member
- Joined
- Jan 5, 2013
- Messages
- 11
- Reaction score
- 1
I got a homebrew kit for Christmas without a pot or burner and the SWMBO (I know it refers to your wife/girlfriend, but what is the literal translation of this???) has given me the go ahead to build my setup for my birthday in a few weeks.
I've done one partial mash so far, but that's not my speed. My favorite part of the whole thing was working with the specialty grains so I know I want to go AG and I need a little help with the whole setup. I'm going to just go through my plans for critique/input and then later I'll start with sourcing, posting and buying parts.
I want to do a bottom drain with the triclover fitting onto the sanke from BrewHardware. I'll drill the chopped bottom from the keg into a false bottom. I'll have a sight glass from them too and be using camlocks for the hoses.
It's going to be similar to a Kal kettle but modified for BIAB. I plan on using the 5500w ULWD Camco. I want to use the Auber SYL-2352 and just use a kitchen timer to save the money (but I would like to use a box big enough in case I decide to get one later). I basically want what this diagram shows, but with a 240v element. I'm not so sure about e-stop. I have a feeling I would bump it accidentally and, from the looks of the diagram, blow that fuse bringing my brew day to a halt unless I had extras on hand. I'd prefer the KCD4 DPST switches too. Unless someone has a compelling argument for $12 a switch just so they'll be illuminated push buttons.
As far as home wiring goes: I rent a house so no major modifications can be done. I'm planning a run of about 20' from my fusebox which will get a 30A 240v fuse to one of the spa panels. I'm still trying to get my head around the home wiring bit for now. I run 10/3 with the hot/hot/neutral from the fusebox, but where does the ground wire from the plug go to?
I'm planning on using the GreatBrewEh pump connected to the bottom drain with the valve on just the output. Is this okay or do I need a valve on both sides? Do you think I would see any advantage by having the return mounted on a 90* angle to make a whirlpool? I'd think it wouldn't be necessary if I use the false bottom to form the natural filter while recirculating before pumping to my chiller. Is an RTD thermometer really that much more accurate to justify the extra cost? And what is the best place to put it, in tank, outlet of pump, or just before the wort recirculation port?
Whew, this felt long. I'm not looking forward to the cost, although I'm hoping I've chosen the best methods to keep cost down and still get a top of the line brew.
I've done one partial mash so far, but that's not my speed. My favorite part of the whole thing was working with the specialty grains so I know I want to go AG and I need a little help with the whole setup. I'm going to just go through my plans for critique/input and then later I'll start with sourcing, posting and buying parts.
I want to do a bottom drain with the triclover fitting onto the sanke from BrewHardware. I'll drill the chopped bottom from the keg into a false bottom. I'll have a sight glass from them too and be using camlocks for the hoses.
It's going to be similar to a Kal kettle but modified for BIAB. I plan on using the 5500w ULWD Camco. I want to use the Auber SYL-2352 and just use a kitchen timer to save the money (but I would like to use a box big enough in case I decide to get one later). I basically want what this diagram shows, but with a 240v element. I'm not so sure about e-stop. I have a feeling I would bump it accidentally and, from the looks of the diagram, blow that fuse bringing my brew day to a halt unless I had extras on hand. I'd prefer the KCD4 DPST switches too. Unless someone has a compelling argument for $12 a switch just so they'll be illuminated push buttons.
As far as home wiring goes: I rent a house so no major modifications can be done. I'm planning a run of about 20' from my fusebox which will get a 30A 240v fuse to one of the spa panels. I'm still trying to get my head around the home wiring bit for now. I run 10/3 with the hot/hot/neutral from the fusebox, but where does the ground wire from the plug go to?
I'm planning on using the GreatBrewEh pump connected to the bottom drain with the valve on just the output. Is this okay or do I need a valve on both sides? Do you think I would see any advantage by having the return mounted on a 90* angle to make a whirlpool? I'd think it wouldn't be necessary if I use the false bottom to form the natural filter while recirculating before pumping to my chiller. Is an RTD thermometer really that much more accurate to justify the extra cost? And what is the best place to put it, in tank, outlet of pump, or just before the wort recirculation port?
Whew, this felt long. I'm not looking forward to the cost, although I'm hoping I've chosen the best methods to keep cost down and still get a top of the line brew.
