Frigidaire Model FFPH44M4LM/BFPH44M4LM electrical question(s)

I'm so close to being done with this build I just have an electrical question but for future users searching I might as well give a brief outline of the build so far.

This model is the updated FRC445GB model from best buy (snagged it on sale). I'm putting two pin lock cornies in which will fit with flattening the door and removal of the thermostat/light fixture on the side. I've installed a tower on top following Schnitzengiggle's build. He outlines his build very well.

Things where I deviated:

• I drilled the two holes much closer together. I noticed in his pics the two pipes inside of the fridge appeared to be angled like /\ and I guessed it was because they were too wide for the tower. Putting them right next to each-other seems to fit perfectly vertical.
• I did not use nearly as much wood. I just picked up a hardwood cutting board (just happened to walk by and it was about the right size). I think it was like $5 and somewhere around 10x15".
• I cut slightly deeper into the foam when placing the board so that I did not need to cut away the plastic top to make it fit flush again. I plan on completely replacing this soon with a better top (build pics included on that one!).

Anyway now onto a part he didn't do. He left the thermostat that came with the fridge in there just pushed to the back outside of its housing. I don't want to do that. I've got a Love controller I'd like to install. My thoughts are to install it on the back where the compressor is, run the temp probe inside through the drain hole, probably stick it in a bottle of that gel stuff that comes in ice packs (saw another build that did this, can't find the link now). But before I start cutting wires, I want to confirm some stuff and ask some questions. I apologize in advance for my crappy paint skills, hopefully these diagrams aren't confusing.

This is the wiring as it is now as far as I figure:

The light and thermo inside the fridge.

I figure black goes into the thermo through a relay that when switched on connects to blue and completes the compressors circuit. I think the thermo itself is powered through the hot(black) and neutral(red). I'm not 100% sure because it seems to me they'd use a white wire there. I'm also guessing this light bulb is a 12v light bulb.

Also if this is wired up how I think then can I do the following to control it with my controller?


The thermo and light are disconnected and just dead wires now.

Also has anyone confirmed the voltage of the light bulb? I can't quite plug it in right now to measure.

I'm thinking that if I just cap the wires inside but leave them hot then later I can come back and add in a 12v fan from the white and yellow to push air up into the tower.

Check that the light doesn't work off button switch on the door. Some models shut down compressor operation when door is open to prevent long run times which kill small compressors. Helped make kezzer for buddy and wired compressor thru door switch just in case.

The light does work off a switch in the door, but that switch won't get hit by the door anymore since I made the door flat so it should stay always on.

I just tried to measure the light with the thermostat disconnected the light is only showing 0.8v so something else is going on inside the wall of the fridge. Ah well. I'm going to wire it up, let you guys know if it works, makes magical blue smoke, or burns my house down.

Alright so I played around with a voltmeter trying to figure out what those inside wires are. I'm stupid or something, I couldn't figure it out for sure but the light is definitely not 12v so ignore that.

I did how ever just hook up the controller outside in the back next to the compressor. Pics below in case someone else needs guidance.

First in the back left you'll see a box with wires going in it like this. Ignore the blue wire sticking out, I only halfway put it back on to take the picture. You'll take those two screws out of either side and unclip the back to free the wires within.


Once you get that off you'll see basically the first wiring diagram I attached earlier. There are two main bundles of wires, one from the wall and one to the compressor. From the wall is green (ground), white (neutral), and black(hot). Black goes straight into the back of the fridge, white goes into a cap and splits, one to the compressor and one to the back of the fridge, and green goes everywhere. To the compressor you'll have one of the white wires and a blue wire that comes out of the fridge.

You'll want to cut the wires that go into the fridge, 1 black, 1 blue, and 1 white. After you do the wiring should look like this.

I left the green going into the fridge because we don't need to tie into it and it never hurts to leave it grounded up there.

Now if you have a Love controller (which is what I used here) you'll need to make a short jumper about 1" or so, use black wire if you can because its a hot wire. juvinious wrote up stc-1000 instructions.

Into ports 1 and 2 put the two ends from the temp probe. I don't think it matters which is which. Into port 7 put the white wire. Into port 8 gets the black wire from the wall AND one end of the 1" jumper you made. Into port 10 goes the other end of the jumper and into port 11 goes the blue wire. We skipped 9, we don't need it for this.


Note before doing this its easier to put the wires from the temp probe from the inside of the fridge through the drain to the outside, so you'll want to do that before hooking it up.

As for where to mount this bad boy, I'm trying to figure that out right now. I don't really want it visible so I want to find someplace underneath here to attach it, but I also don't want it to put holes in the fridge to mount a box. I might just glue it on someplace. I'm also thinking I should plug that drain hole. I don't want condensation to get a bead of water rolling down the temp probe and onto the controller...

Did you drill a hole in the side of this fridge for your CO2 lines? Or are you putting your CO2 cylinder inside? I've got a similar setup with this fridge but want to get my CO2 tank out of there ASAP so I have more access to the regulator for hooking up a beergun, etc.

Currently my CO2 is inside, no holes anywhere but the top for the tap tower. It is kind of annoying to fish the tank out every keg/bottling day. Have you thought of widening the drain plug in the bottom-back to run the CO2 lines through there?