Worked for me.
ebay aquarium temp controller build
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Worked for me.
dtadpole
Active Member
Yep, me 2. I used a piece of small bubble wrap and duct taped it and it seemed to work great.
dtadpole
Active Member
Can anyone help modify this wiring diagram from post #991 to only use one outlet? Top plug for heat and bottom plug for cool.
Hopefully this will help. Chopped up the original image from post #991. -->Original post here!
dtadpole said:
I really appreciate it. I guess it shouldn't matter since the negative side of the receptacle is connected couldn't the negative from the red light and blue light connect to the neutral block?
seanoj
Well-Known Member
I use blue painters tape. Keeps glue off my carboys...
milldoggy
Well-Known Member
Bungie cord and pipe insulation
Just make sure you break the metal tab that connects the hot side of the top and bottom outlet when using this wiring configuration.
Boodlemania
Well-Known Member
Hey all. Wow, what a long thread... took a while to read.
I ordered a 110V controller from mixtea (?) on ebay 8 days ago. How many of you folks ordered from this seller and how long did it take you to receive your controller? I'm curious how long this will take to get to me from Hong Kong or wherever it's coming from. I'm concerned because I can't track my shipment. MixTea (?) didn't give me a tracking number.
I ordered a 110V controller from mixtea (?) on ebay 8 days ago. How many of you folks ordered from this seller and how long did it take you to receive your controller? I'm curious how long this will take to get to me from Hong Kong or wherever it's coming from. I'm concerned because I can't track my shipment. MixTea (?) didn't give me a tracking number.
fixitoscar
Well-Known Member
I purchased one from another seller. (quality-link)It took about 2 weeks for it to arrive.
dtadpole
Active Member
Yes , def. forgot to mention that. Def. a key thing! thanks
****Edited the pic above to note this! thanks again
Yes that would work too.
I see that terminal strips have varying amp ratings from 10-20 amps. What amp terminal block do I need to get?
I just used wire nuts. Terminal blocks are too much of a pain for only a few wires.
dtadpole
Active Member
X3 on the wire nuts instead of terminal strips, use a little black elec. tape on them when they are tightened down.
bovineblitz
Well-Known Member
Got my controller in yesterday, built my box today!
Radioshack (two radioshacks actually) didn't have the size I was looking for so I decided to try cramming it in a smaller box. I quickly discovered that my two outlet thingy was way too big and there was no way I was going to fit it in there, so I went back to the hardware store and switched it for a single outlet. I'm only using it for cooling so no biggie. THEN, the single outlet was a little too big if I wanted to put it on the end of the box, but I managed to cram it in there by cutting off part of the metal braces with tin snips, cutting out part of the "posts" on the inside of the box that run from the bottom to the top, and shortening the screws by 3-4 threads. Of course, the temp controller didn't exactly fit either... so I decided to scrap the protective plastic bracket on the back and cut off the plastic part that receives the screw and it juuust barely fit.
I had a pretty hard time cutting out the posts and holes for the controller and outlet since I don't have a dremel. I went with the "heat a razor blade with a lighter" method and it was very slow and a royal pain but it did work.
So all in all, $24 controller, $3 outlet, and $3.50 project box, extra computer power cable, 4 hours of effort, and a bunch of macgyvering = working temp controller! Great deal. Thanks so much to everyone in this thread who laid the groundwork and helped me out!
Radioshack (two radioshacks actually) didn't have the size I was looking for so I decided to try cramming it in a smaller box. I quickly discovered that my two outlet thingy was way too big and there was no way I was going to fit it in there, so I went back to the hardware store and switched it for a single outlet. I'm only using it for cooling so no biggie. THEN, the single outlet was a little too big if I wanted to put it on the end of the box, but I managed to cram it in there by cutting off part of the metal braces with tin snips, cutting out part of the "posts" on the inside of the box that run from the bottom to the top, and shortening the screws by 3-4 threads. Of course, the temp controller didn't exactly fit either... so I decided to scrap the protective plastic bracket on the back and cut off the plastic part that receives the screw and it juuust barely fit.
I had a pretty hard time cutting out the posts and holes for the controller and outlet since I don't have a dremel. I went with the "heat a razor blade with a lighter" method and it was very slow and a royal pain but it did work.
So all in all, $24 controller, $3 outlet, and $3.50 project box, extra computer power cable, 4 hours of effort, and a bunch of macgyvering = working temp controller! Great deal. Thanks so much to everyone in this thread who laid the groundwork and helped me out!
dtadpole
Active Member
^^^^^ Nice job man! Looks good, like the conversion chart on the top.
rdharris55
Active Member
I almost hate to beat a dead horse...however, you have to beat something from time to time! 
I ordered this controller from Globalconn...same as most others in this thread. Awesome service and response.... Ordered last Monday BTW...however, today I received a model ETC-200+. It appears to be a similar controller, maybe a newer model??...instead of 4 buttons it has 2 rocker switches and on the back we have 12 connectors...actually 11 connectors although the spacing as well as the wiring diagram allows for twelve. There is actually no connector at position 10...between power in and the the sensor.
The wiring diagram is entirely different than what I have seen in this thread and expected based on the product description when I ordered. It shows the 11 connectors...110VAC in on pins 7-9, sensor on pins 11-12, 10a/220VAC compressor on 1-3, 10a/220VAC defrost on 5-6. I think I understand that the 220VAC rating on these is a limit and that 110VAC isn't an issue.
To my meager brain, this seems exactly the same but different. Compressor equals cool, Defrost equals heat, etc.
Here's a link to the only almost matching doc's I could find online... http://www.kibnt.com/uploadfile/microcomputertemperaturecontroller1/20091020020020kFmyF.pdf except both my doc's and my controller are labeled 110VAC at the input (7-9).
I'm not an electronics wiz or even an electrician, but I think this is a reasonably clear translation, but I would most welcome a wiser second opinion.
Assistance muchly appreciated.
Image: http://picplz.com/QZ1z
I ordered this controller from Globalconn...same as most others in this thread. Awesome service and response.... Ordered last Monday BTW...however, today I received a model ETC-200+. It appears to be a similar controller, maybe a newer model??...instead of 4 buttons it has 2 rocker switches and on the back we have 12 connectors...actually 11 connectors although the spacing as well as the wiring diagram allows for twelve. There is actually no connector at position 10...between power in and the the sensor.
The wiring diagram is entirely different than what I have seen in this thread and expected based on the product description when I ordered. It shows the 11 connectors...110VAC in on pins 7-9, sensor on pins 11-12, 10a/220VAC compressor on 1-3, 10a/220VAC defrost on 5-6. I think I understand that the 220VAC rating on these is a limit and that 110VAC isn't an issue.
To my meager brain, this seems exactly the same but different. Compressor equals cool, Defrost equals heat, etc.
Here's a link to the only almost matching doc's I could find online... http://www.kibnt.com/uploadfile/microcomputertemperaturecontroller1/20091020020020kFmyF.pdf except both my doc's and my controller are labeled 110VAC at the input (7-9).
I'm not an electronics wiz or even an electrician, but I think this is a reasonably clear translation, but I would most welcome a wiser second opinion.
Assistance muchly appreciated.
Image: http://picplz.com/QZ1z
I just received this thermowell from NB. The temp prob fits perfectly inside of this model.
marnel
Well-Known Member
milldoggy
Well-Known Member
Mixtea shafted me. I paid, never received it yet. He supposely sent another one, nope. I ordered in decemeber, to late to report a non payment. He actually changed his ebay name. Pretty much out 22.99. Do not order from mixtea. I sent numerous emails, he keeps saying he is an honest seller, but nothing shows up in the mail.
I almost hate to beat a dead horse...however, you have to beat something from time to time!
I ordered this controller from Globalconn...same as most others in this thread. Awesome service and response.... Ordered last Monday BTW...however, today I received a model ETC-200+. It appears to be a similar controller, maybe a newer model??...instead of 4 buttons it has 2 rocker switches and on the back we have 12 connectors...actually 11 connectors although the spacing as well as the wiring diagram allows for twelve. There is actually no connector at position 10...between power in and the the sensor.
The wiring diagram is entirely different than what I have seen in this thread and expected based on the product description when I ordered. It shows the 11 connectors...110VAC in on pins 7-9, sensor on pins 11-12, 10a/220VAC compressor on 1-3, 10a/220VAC defrost on 5-6. I think I understand that the 220VAC rating on these is a limit and that 110VAC isn't an issue.
To my meager brain, this seems exactly the same but different. Compressor equals cool, Defrost equals heat, etc.
Here's a link to the only almost matching doc's I could find online... http://www.kibnt.com/uploadfile/microcomputertemperaturecontroller1/20091020020020kFmyF.pdf except both my doc's and my controller are labeled 110VAC at the input (7-9).
I'm not an electronics wiz or even an electrician, but I think this is a reasonably clear translation, but I would most welcome a wiser second opinion.
Assistance muchly appreciated.
Image: http://picplz.com/QZ1z
did you order the incorrect model? or did they send you the wrong one?
based on the fact that you kept it, i assume you ordered incorrectly?
if not, contact the seller and have them send you the correct one.
I had some spare electrical boxes and parts laying around, so I went the quick-and-dirty route:
Velcroed the controller on top of the box, works like a charm
Apparently made this just in time, as one of my brand new Johnson Controls A419 controllers just died
Velcroed the controller on top of the box, works like a charm
Apparently made this just in time, as one of my brand new Johnson Controls A419 controllers just died
@android I think I'll use the below chart...
@Mobius570
1. Link to the seller...
2. I plan on it, don't know about the OP.
I created two tables, one C to F, and the other F to C, to allow me to set the temperature, or read and convert the actual temperature:
Fahrenheit To Celsius PDF File
Celsius To Fahrenheit PDF File
And the Spreadsheets:
Fahrenheit To Celsius Spreadsheet File
Celsius To Fahrenheit Spreadsheet File
Shag
Member
I built out my controller this weekend, and used this site as my primary guide (I realize the hot/cold on the controller are reversed - I adjusted for that).
I'm having an issue where my cooling outlet/bulb are active 100% of the time, even with the controller powered off. The heating outlet/bulb work as expected. I've confirmed that the two outlets are wired the same, and the hot wire from the power cord connects only to pins 1, 5, and 7 on the controller - there should be no direct (non-switched) power to the cooling side.
What would cause the cooling side to always be active?
I'm having an issue where my cooling outlet/bulb are active 100% of the time, even with the controller powered off. The heating outlet/bulb work as expected. I've confirmed that the two outlets are wired the same, and the hot wire from the power cord connects only to pins 1, 5, and 7 on the controller - there should be no direct (non-switched) power to the cooling side.
What would cause the cooling side to always be active?
Shag
Member
Nevermind - figured it out. Had a single stray wire strand that was causing the issue. Yikes...
mikeysab
Well-Known Member
How many degrees differential are you guys setteing these to?
.5 diffrence here
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You know that the controller itself will fit in one of the gangs, right?
I would have used a 2-gang but I had a 3-gang at hand.
M_C
I would have used a 2-gang but I had a 3-gang at hand.
M_C
I had some spare electrical boxes and parts laying around, so I went the quick-and-dirty route:
Velcroed the controller on top of the box, works like a charm
Apparently made this just in time, as one of my brand new Johnson Controls A419 controllers just died
I will pick up a 3 gang Old Work project box, as I have two controllers and a outlet. "Old work" probably because it will be easier to snip of any extra bits.
I have an extra controller because I accidentally ordered a 220v one. I use it for another temperature probe until I need it for 220v.
NOTES on use:
Air temp was being regulated to 68F with primary controller.
Second probe was attached to outside carboy = 73F!
Brew thermometers stuck through the top read ~ 64F.
I moved primary controller to side of carboy and temperature climbed.
Lesson? Put probe on carboy. I was concerned that temperature would way overshoot (oven anyone?), but time will tell.
I have an extra controller because I accidentally ordered a 220v one. I use it for another temperature probe until I need it for 220v.
NOTES on use:
Air temp was being regulated to 68F with primary controller.
Second probe was attached to outside carboy = 73F!
Brew thermometers stuck through the top read ~ 64F.
I moved primary controller to side of carboy and temperature climbed.
Lesson? Put probe on carboy. I was concerned that temperature would way overshoot (oven anyone?), but time will tell.
Yeah, but like I said, I used what I had laying around.You know that the controller itself will fit in one of the gangs, right?
I would have used a 2-gang but I had a 3-gang at hand.
M_C
I've ordered two more, and may get a little more elaborate this time
I just ordered mine today (I read through this whole damn thread so yes I made sure I got the 110V one lol http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dl...998461&ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT#ht_4169wt_905)
I have a Johnson A419 for my keezer build. I plan on using this DIY build for a heated fermentation chamber only so I don't need it to cool. I have a few questions.
First, I assume the above diagram will work for heating and a fan. I just need to switch the two wires going into the cooling terminals of the controller to the heating terminals.
Second, I want to use a reptile ceramic bulb to heat the chamber with a fan blowing the air around. Will these work ok plugged into the controller?
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002AQCXM/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002AQCPU/?tag=skimlinks_replacement-20
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I'm trying to find these on Lowes.com and can't. Does anyone know what they are specifically called? Damn thing is driving me crazy!!!
milldoggy
Well-Known Member
Cheap hair dryer is a great heater, built in gfci, built fan, heats fast.
I'm trying to find these on Lowes.com and can't. Does anyone know what they are specifically called? Damn thing is driving me crazy!!!
Strain Relief?
