Should I get a Brew Pot with a Ball Valve?

I am fairly new to homebrewing and so far have only brewed using simple extract kits. I am looking to purchase a bigger, better brew pot and am wondering if I should get one that has a built in ball valve? I’m wondering if it’s better to have ALL the sediment etc., when you transfer your wort from the boiling pot to the fermenter or would it be better to use a boiling pot with a ball valve so that when you transfer the wort, a majority of the sediment stuff remains in the bottom of the pot? Is either way more preferred or does it not matter??

From what I understand the ball valve will definitely help strain out the undesirable trub. But being a new brewer myself, I opted to just use a (SANITIZED) strainer I had already. Investing in that fancy ( $$ ) brewpot as a newbie didn't make sense to me.

But hey, if you want it and can get it, why not?

The ball valve is much more about not picking up 5 gallons of liquid to pour.

zoubrew said:

I am fairly new to homebrewing and so far have only brewed using simple extract kits. I am looking to purchase a bigger, better brew pot and am wondering if I should get one that has a built in ball valve? I’m wondering if it’s better to have ALL the sediment etc., when you transfer your wort from the boiling pot to the fermenter or would it be better to use a boiling pot with a ball valve so that when you transfer the wort, a majority of the sediment stuff remains in the bottom of the pot? Is either way more preferred or does it not matter??

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I have a 20 gallon pot and considered adding one. There are advantages to having one but I decided to whirlpool the break material (sediment) and siphon from the side. It works well. I try to keep things simple when possible. I don't think you can lose either way but if you don't need a new kettle this may be the way to go.

I would get the ball valve.

It simply gives you more options. Plus if you ever decide to go all grain you'll need it.

As far as sediment, it doesn't really matter. You can filter it out before it goes in the fermentor or it will settle out and sink to the bottom anyway.

for my brewpot, i won't install a ball valve because i still cool with an ice bath and it would need to be resanitized
for the pot i'll be using for mash/sparge water, it will most definitely have a ball valve because i intend for it to always be above my mash tun

to be honest, it seems WAY cheaper to buy a pot without the valve and add one later if you need it... i got an 8g aluminum pot off amazon for $38 shipped

BiscayneBrewing said:

I would get the ball valve.

It simply gives you more options. Plus if you ever decide to go all grain you'll need it.

As far as sediment, it doesn't really matter. You can filter it out before it goes in the fermentor or it will settle out and sink to the bottom anyway.

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I'm confused - why do you need a ball valve on a brew kettle to do all-grain?

CCericola said:

I'm confused - why do you need a ball valve on a brew kettle to do all-grain?

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you don't but it gives you options for what you can do with the pot.

Yes, I would say you need ball valve for all grain along with some other equipment. I would say you need a ball valve even for extract brewing if doing a batch of any size. It is dangerous to handle a pot of hot liquid by the handles (in fact all of them warn you not to). If I had to do it again after some years of experience, I would get all of my equipment from www.http://conical-fermenter.com/products/. The only downside is the lead time although John has some things ready to ship.

The best thing I like about Stout Kettles is that they have welded tri clover fitting that do not leak and are easy to clean. The ball valves are also very easy to clean, taking me about a minute. Once you have taken a ball valve apart after a few brews and thought it was clean, well let’s just say it was a good thing that I ran hot wort to sanitize everything. Ball valves allow you to control the flow out of the kettle and can only add to your sanitary procedures.

I do not like weldless fittings as they will eventually give you fits if they develop a leak like the two Blickmann Kettles that I have. I will never purchase another thing with anything weldless as welded is 1000% better. I know many brewers use the weldless fittings and if handy, you can do yourself, but if you have a choice and you are buying or can TIG weld, go weldless. You will see threads about sanitary welds but anything threaded has to be millions of times more difficult to clean and sanitize.

If you test for leaks before each batch a ball valve is a great thing to have. I know for me the ball valve is saving me a lot of lifting and filtering. Is it necessary? No, but man does it make life easier. I installed mine after I got my pot.

I BIAB (single vessel brewing) and I still find a use for my valve without the needed re-circulation of a RIMS, BRUTUS, or HERMS setup.

Good luck, and I hope you choose the option that will make you the happiest!

You might find that siphoning from your brewpot can give you better sediment avoidance over using a ball valve.

I would have to say that I've been conditioned to avoid aluminum at all costs. Stories of off flavors, and layers of oxidation confuse and scare me. So Stainless for me all the way. Plus anything with a valve on it is just more areas to have to sanitize come brew day

BiscayneBrewing said:

I would get the ball valve.
It simply gives you more options. Plus if you ever decide to go all grain you'll need it.

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Not necessarily. BIAB is a fully viable option. Even the more traditional method can be done without the valve.

Awesome set up @oakbarn!

oakbarn said:

Yes, I would say you need ball valve for all grain along with some other equipment. I would say you need a ball valve even for extract brewing if doing a batch of any size. It is dangerous to handle a pot of hot liquid by the handles (in fact all of them warn you not to).

Click to expand...

If your brewing all-grain with similar setup that you pictured, then you probably would need a ball valve, but it's not true to say that you have to have a ball valve. I brew 10 gallon batches and don't have a ball valve. I simply cool the wort first then siphon to the fermenters. I would also do it this way with extract brewing.

For those interested, here is my process with a single vessel using the aussie BIAB single vessel: BIAB brewday