Cheap compact wort pump

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I cheaped out, & can't afford quick connects right now so I just used a short piece to connect the pump. Also i wouldn't boil with it on the kettle like that. I mainly plan on using it to transfer wort and water between my HLT, MashTon & Kettle& probably kettle to fermenter.


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Ahhhh... Makes sense, I didn't notice the propane burner under the keggle the first time I looked:D
 
Sorry if this was answered earlier. I read the first 12-15 pages or so and then jumped to the end here. Has anyone had problems with wort clogging the pump? I'm looking at getting the beige one on amazon listed above to recirculate wort but im wondering if trub in the wort may cause it to clog and seize? My manifold does a decent job of keeping it out but not 100%.



Also, think this pump would be up to pushing wort through 25ft of 1/2" coiled tubing? Im looking to build a HERMS setup on the cheap and I'm hoping this little guy is up to the task.




I bought the one from amazon but I havnt used it yet. I'm waiting on one more part to get it going. Hopefully it arrives by Thursday. I'm planning on brewing a couple beers this weekend if so. I'll post my results from the total brew day. I BIAB and I'm gonna try to recirculate the mash wort to keep a constant temp and to test the pump. Wish me luck!


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It should work great just make sure u wire it right


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This little amazon pump worked great. No more picking up heavy kettles!


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ImageUploadedByHome Brew1404795371.201353.jpg


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I want to run an idea past you all. I have a Topsflo pump with the stainless steel connectors on the way. I have a three tier system with gravity feed from the HLT but I want to reduce the height of the system so the top of the MLT will be only about a foot above the top of the BK. The pump will solve that problem. I am going to attach a three way brewers hardware valve to the outlet of the pump and use one output to both recirculate the mash and to pump wort from the mash tun into the boiling kettle. The other outlet will go to the counterflow chiller. I figure with some turns of the handle and a quick switch of the triclover connector on the outflow of my MLT to the outflow of my BK I will be able to accomplish all of the operations using that one little pump. Anyone know whether the pump can handle this?

My understanding is that you can run these pumps are rated for 12V as high as 24V. Does anyone know if that is correct? Also, how much current can this thing handle? I'm guessing around 1.2 amps.
 
By the way, I know there was some question about prices for the Topsflo pump with Stainless Steel fittings from e-bay.<http://www.ebay.com/itm/Solar-Water-Pump-15-W-Stainless-Steel-Fittings-/321114864663?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ac3effc17&afsrc=1> I offered the guy $60 and he countered with $62 with free shipping. It is a lot more than the p38i pump but based upon reviews like this one from Amazon I decided to take the plunge.

4 Star Amazon Review:
I use this pump as my primary transfer pump in a HERMS beer brewing system. It is very powerful for such a small 12VDC pump, and is also very quiet. I often have to check to see if it has stalled during extended periods of use because I cannot hear it from the other room. This pump performs every bit as well as the $200 magnetic pumps most brewers favor, but it is a fraction of the price, it is smaller and it uses low-voltage DC power, which is marginally safer for DIY pumping applications than 120VAC mains power.

Pros:
- Powerful: 3GPM is great for a 12VDC pump, and it will build a surprising amount of pressure as well.
- Quiet: When properly primed and mounted, it is nearly silent.
- High Quality: this is made from high strength thermoplastic and feels very sturdy. Fittings are brass, which is a nice bonus at this price point, and makes it simply to swap parts in your system without dealing with barbs and clamps.
- 12VDC power: You are extremely unlikely to electrocute yourself while using or servicing this pump.
- Easy to start: 1/2" inlet/outlet means the pump fills and primes easily via siphoning.
- Easy to service: 4 screws, one seal and one moving part inside the head. Magnetic drive pumps occasionally get knocked out of phase, and it takes about 5 minutes to re-seat this one.
- Features: Auto-protection for dry operation, and overheating. Features not found on more expensive pumps.

Cons:
- Are the brass connections lead free? I hope so.
- This pump does not deal with air bubbles very well at all, and will sometimes stall if there are any stray bubbles inside your system. It can be difficult to re-prime it if this happens.
- Mounting - this is where I took off a star. Laying it on it's side exacerbates the stalling problem with air bubbles, but the wires come out from the bottom, so it can not easily be stood upright. There are no mounting holes or bracket available, so a custom mounting job is the only option.
 
I would think it would do ok handling it. My advice, bring all vessels down to one level and get a second pump. I think you will be happier with those results. You could get by with the $20 tan pump to go from hlt to mlt if you are worried about the plastic (as far as I now the topsflo has a plastic head anyway, just metal fittings). I used to do this until I went with 2 chuggers for my eherms system. I have to admit I love the bigger pumps, but in reality you can do almost as good of job with the cheap ones. I needed more gpm for my recirculation needs, but I have still hung on to my tan ones, as I use one to recirculate the hlt when I do back to back batches and need 3 pumps. They are so stinking handy to have that I don't foresee ever getting rid of them even though I don't use them much. For how much they cost, they are an affordable game changer, and easily some of the best money I have spent on brewing.
 
I bought the US Solar 3GPM pump with stainless fittings almost a year ago for $75 from Amazon. (Actually paid less than half that because of reward points.) I've brewed almost 30 batches with it and am very happy with how it performs. I liked it so much that I was thinking that I should have a backup, but saw the eBay version for $24 and gave it a chance. Have to say, other than not having the stainless fittings it's damn near the same pump. Performance wise, it may get a nod over the US Solar.

On a few occasions I sucked too much grain through the pump when starting to recirculate the mash and clogged the US Solar. So far no issues with the clone. It appears to pump a little stronger, but I haven&#8217;t done anything to test it. And as for the stainless fittings, they&#8217;re just adapters threaded onto the same type of plastic body and really don&#8217;t offer any significant advantage.

I outfitted both with the same CPC disconnects, in-line switches and female plugs, so they are interchangeable. These pumps have made my brewdays a lot easier. No more lifting heavy wort filled containers.
:ban:

Pump_01.jpg
 
Thanks for your input, Spellman. I recently got a used Blichmann top tier system and am generally happy with the gravity setup for the HLT but I would like the mash tun lower so I came up with this idea. I will start here and see how I like it.


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I still use gravity to go from HLT to MLT, but before the pump would also gravity feed to my kettle on the floor. Then I would have to lift up to my burner. With a 62 quart pot, the pump is worth it for that alone, but the ability to recirculate has been a nice bonus.
 
I brewed in a bag until last week. I used a keggle. Now I am doing traditional mashing and lautering. My pots are 26 gal. There is a lot more liquid to move. With the system I have I can hook the pump and hoses to the rack and just flip switches and valves. I'm really looking forward to that. I filter water directly into my HLT so I am not worried about pumping that in but reciculating for temperature consistency would be great. Maybe a use for the cheaper pump.
 
I outfitted both with the same CPC disconnects, in-line switches and female plugs, so they are interchangeable. These pumps have made my brewdays a lot easier. No more lifting heavy wort filled containers.
:ban:

Nice idea with the in-line switches and female plugs! I soldered my connections and plug the pump into my control panel, which has a switch, but I like your idea better. I also went with stainless steel disconnects, but the CPC ones are lighter and may be easier to use.
 
I bought the US Solar 3GPM pump with stainless fittings almost a year ago for $75 from Amazon. (Actually paid less than half that because of reward points.) I've brewed almost 30 batches with it and am very happy with how it performs. I liked it so much that I was thinking that I should have a backup, but saw the eBay version for $24 and gave it a chance. Have to say, other than not having the stainless fittings it's damn near the same pump. Performance wise, it may get a nod over the US Solar.

On a few occasions I sucked too much grain through the pump when starting to recirculate the mash and clogged the US Solar. So far no issues with the clone. It appears to pump a little stronger, but I haven’t done anything to test it. And as for the stainless fittings, they’re just adapters threaded onto the same type of plastic body and really don’t offer any significant advantage.

I outfitted both with the same CPC disconnects, in-line switches and female plugs, so they are interchangeable. These pumps have made my brewdays a lot easier. No more lifting heavy wort filled containers.
:ban:

I've been looking for a pump that I can put on QD's to move around easily. Have you had any problems with the ebay one you showed? It says it's rated up to 212 degrees (boiling water) which makes me wonder if your boil is really going have you had any problems? I'd like something economical but don't want to spend $$$ and watch my first batch melt the insides.
 
The CPC disconnects are a good fit. Light weight and compact like the pumps. I was lucky and scored a box full of used ones cheap from the classified section here on HBT.

Not sure about the temperature question. The US Solar is rated at 230 degrees and the imitation at 212, but I’m not sure why. They appear to be made from the same materials. For my application it doesn’t make a difference. I’m using the pump to recirculate and transfer mash, so the temperature is never above 170 degrees. I would expect that someone else here is using these pumps for whirlpooling and chilling at boiling temperatures?

The female plug and switch came from Amazon and are really cheap and easy to hookup.
 
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I have the imitation topsflo also. Love it. Much stronger than the tan wonder (but not submersible). I have a female camlock on the input and move it that way. Easy.

I use it for HLT transfers, RIMS re-circulation through 6+ feet of tubing and from boil kettle>chiller>fermenter. I haven't had it get stuck yet after several batches, but it is sensitive to air in the line like the previous poster stated.. And no it doesn't melt at boiling temps. A few pages back I listed what the material was and it's temp limitations.

ImageUploadedByHome Brew1405646745.623165.jpg
 
I have the imitation topsflo also. Love it. Much stronger than the tan wonder (but not submersible). I have a female camlock on the input and move it that way. Easy.

I use it for HLT transfers, RIMS re-circulation through 6+ feet of tubing and from boil kettle>chiller>fermenter. I haven't had it get stuck yet after several batches, but it is sensitive to air in the line like the previous poster stated.. And no it doesn't melt at boiling temps. A few pages back I listed what the material was and it's temp limitations.

View attachment 211786


I have the same thing. What type of plug are using?


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Plug? Like power connector? I use the switch crafts to mount to the panel and just use wire ties to connect pump to the other wires for now. Eventually I'd like to put the expandable sheathing over it like the temp probes. Crappy pic but you get the idea.

photo.jpg
 
In my eherms setup the tan ones aren't quite strong enough to get good recirculation temps going through the heat exchange. I actually didn't try it as I already had 1 chugger at the time I built my new system. It would probably push liquid through, but at much too slow of a rate for that purpose. I had used one before for chilling through my garden hose cfc, it worked, but pretty slow.
 
I just got the valve and all the connectors for my pump setup from Brewer's Hardware. This allows me to adjust the height of the pots on my Blichmann Top Tier to make the geometry much more manageable. Now I won't need a step stool to reach the HLT. That required some replumbing of the gas lines, which is also done.

My pump is supposed to come next week so I will just have to make the two connections. Here's the configuration with the lowered MLT and HLT and my 3-way valve setup ready for the pump in place of the piece of pipe to the right. Bottom will feed CFC, left will be tube for MLT recirculating and for transfer to BK. Only connection I will have to change during brew is to swap the triclover connector leading to the pump from MLT to BK outlet. I am still contemplating the mounting of the CFC and pump to the Top Tier system but I do know the valve will be above the pump. Comments welcome.

I do have a question. My three way valve is actually four way (I can also have all three directions open). That means I can't use it to regulate flow rate. My pots have spigots but I understand that I can't restrict flow upstream, only downstream. Is that correct and, if so, is my only option to put another spigot downstream? Can I use a rheostat on the pump as an alternative?
Here's the configuration with the lowered MLT and HLT and my 3-way valve setup ready for the pump in place of the piece of pipe to the right. Bottom will feed CFC, left will be tube for MLT recirculating and for transfer to BK. Only connection I will have to change during brew is to swap the tri lover connector from MLT to BK outlet. I am still contemplating the mounting of the CFC and pump to the Top Tier system but I do know the valve will be above the pump. Comments welcome.

IMG_4147.jpg


IMG_4146.jpg
 
What kind of pump?
Not sure if the "Chugger's" or the "March" pumps would take kindly to being speed regulated.

There's a thread in here somewhere about "pump questions answered by the experts.....", or something like that.
 
What kind of pump?
Not sure if the "Chugger's" or the "March" pumps would take kindly to being speed regulated.

There's a thread in here somewhere about "pump questions answered by the experts.....", or something like that.



Topsflo solar pump.


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Topsflo solar pump.


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FWIW I have been controlling my little tan one with the eBay led pwm for almost a year I believe and it has worked flawlessly. Since switching to my topsflo knock-off I have been having issues using the same pwm. However I think the led pwm isn't rated for the amperage the topsflo draws. It sometimes takes a minute to turn on, and doesn't like to let you dial down the flow too much. Also after running at a decreased rate it will shut off on me.

So there needs to be more experimentation with it. I have a new larger pwm but have yet to switch the two. My soldering skills suck!
 
Well, I got my Topsflo Solar Pump. I don't have an appropriate power adapter, so I wired it to a cigarette lighter plug and used a 30 Ah 12V AGM Battery pack which has two cigarette outlets that I made for another project. The first lighter plug I tried wouldn't run it but it was only passing 7.8V. When I swapped that for one rated for much higher voltage the pump started right up and pumps a robust stream through a 1/2 inch tube up 3' to recirculate mash or transfer it into the boiling kettle. I also turned the three way valve to redirect the flow to my chiller and it also pushes a nice stream through that. I think I am going to be very happy with this as soon as I finalize the wiring, figure out how to mount it to my Top Tier rack and regulate the flow rate. Have to decide whether to regulate the battery output or put another valve between the three way and the pump. I'm not thrilled with the idea of so many valves.
 
I ordered one of the black topsflo knockoffs last night after reading pretty much this entire thread. Got a new kettle and decided I was done having to lift full boils, hoping I can get a decent flow rate recirculating through a shorter CFC. Am I right in thinking the length of the chiller shouldn't mean nearly as much with recirculation compared to a single pass chill?
 
I have the imitation topsflo also. Love it. Much stronger than the tan wonder (but not submersible). I have a female camlock on the input and move it that way. Easy.

I use it for HLT transfers, RIMS re-circulation through 6+ feet of tubing and from boil kettle>chiller>fermenter. I haven't had it get stuck yet after several batches, but it is sensitive to air in the line like the previous poster stated.. And no it doesn't melt at boiling temps. A few pages back I listed what the material was and it's temp limitations.

View attachment 211786

Slightly:off: but could you plesr post some details of your rims tube. Looks compact but what's the watts? Or PM me if you don't mind. Cheers!
 
I ordered one of the black topsflo knockoffs last night after reading pretty much this entire thread. Got a new kettle and decided I was done having to lift full boils, hoping I can get a decent flow rate recirculating through a shorter CFC. Am I right in thinking the length of the chiller shouldn't mean nearly as much with recirculation compared to a single pass chill?

Really not sure what you are asking here. Need more info on what you are thinking for the chiller. I have the black pump for recirculation during mash and chilling. But my chiller coil is run using ice water from sink with a small pond pump.
 
I just finished building a chiller, 15 ft total copper. I want to use the pump to recirculate wort down the chiller and back into the kettle so I can chill without ice, just run the pump wide open and adjust the cooling water flow. Cooling water running up will just be my garden hose. Hoping that makes more sense.

Quick edit: My thought with chiller length is it shouldn't mean nearly as much as long as the wort is going back to the kettle until I'm happy with temp, rather then immediately to the fermenter relying on a single pass through the coil to bring the temp down all the way.
 
I got my LED PWM and my power adaptor. Hooked up to the Topsflo pump and tested it all our for recirculation. It works great but the adjustment to the flow is very sensitive. The less vertical head pressure the easier it is to adjust. All and all I think it is going to be great.

I'll post a video of the recirculating at two different flow rates for those who are interested. Don't seem to be able to do it from the phone.


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These pumps, or ones that look very similar, are available from http://solarproject.co.uk/ and are in fairly general use by UK homebrewers where they are known as "solar pumps". I have the SP20/20 version myself which may be slightly more powerful than the ebay model (it is rated at 14 W). I have yet to put it into use. The output threads are male 1/2" BSP but 1/2" NPT fittings work perfectly well.

Here's another video:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=suv3vqGnoFg


Does anyone know what size this hose is and where to get those fittings?

If I knew what they were called I would search Ebay

DOH
 
I imagine that is 3/8" hose, and the post you quoted says the fittings are 1/2" bsp. Not a standard in North America but you can find them online, or use regular pipe thread and multiple layers of Teflon tape.
 
I mounted my pump valve assembly in a box an attached it to my Top Tier rank. Works well. ImageUploadedByHome Brew1406446510.718730.jpgImageUploadedByHome Brew1406446538.054780.jpg


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I mounted my pump valve assembly in a box an attached it to my Top Tier rank. Works well. View attachment 213771View attachment 213772


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Interesting idea - are you running it with the box cover on? I like the idea of this to eliminate the stress on the pump nozzles from turning the ballvalve (if the ball valve body is fixed to the box lid and the pump "hangs" off the valve
 
I had one of the $60 solar pumps at first... came into some money and went with a chugger SS center inlet... let me say this drastic difference in the pumps capabilities.
 
Of course there is a huge difference, they are two different pumps.

Only reason I have a second chugger is because I happened across a deal that let me get it for about $10 more than the topsflo.

Different capabilities is not an issue as long as you are informed of them before hand.

Due diligence is the responsibility of the buyer.

In the end as long as you are satisfied with the one you choose.

T


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I had one of the $60 solar pumps at first... came into some money and went with a chugger SS center inlet... let me say this drastic difference in the pumps capabilities.


Huge difference in noise too from what I understand.
 
Interesting idea - are you running it with the box cover on? I like the idea of this to eliminate the stress on the pump nozzles from turning the ballvalve (if the ball valve body is fixed to the box lid and the pump "hangs" off the valve

I could swear I already replied to this but it has never appeared in the thread. Bottom line is that two of the valve outlets are captured in notches in the box, along with the inlet to the pump. I have captured the metal fittings rather than the plastic part of the pump that is floating in the box. All of the points of capture are attached to the box via zip ties so they are snug. The box is attached to the top tier rack system. The consequence is that when I turn the handle on the valve, the box absorbs the torque rather than the pump.

I did plan on having a lid on the box. I was just repurposing two wooden boxes I had to make the top and bottom. The problem is that the top of the box is 3//16 ply which is too thick to allow the handle to be captured by the square shaft on the valve. I plan to replace that with sheet metal and then try to mount it to the top of the box which will be hinged to the bottom. The whole assembly will be closed.

Today I flushed all of the components of the system with oxyclean and then stars an. I did it by recirculating into the mash tun then transferring to the boiling kettle and recirculating that, then flushing everything out through the counterflow chiller. It also allowed me to test all of the operations I would do during a brew. Worked beautifully.
 
I had one of the $60 solar pumps at first... came into some money and went with a chugger SS center inlet... let me say this drastic difference in the pumps capabilities.

That certainly seems likely. However, at a third the price this one seems to be more than capable of doing the job I need done and everything else in the system is fully adaptable to a chugger or a march pump should the need arise. Once I get through a few brewing sessions I'll know more about my decision.
 

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